• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

Alternator Help!

rexxdoggy

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Jul 14, 2007
Messages
3,239
Location
Crestview, Florida
So, I wanted to make sure before purchasing a new alternator to be sure if that was the culprit. Well, I got the SVT up on a ramp and took a peak. I saw this angled rubber boot (pictured below in the top middle) and noticed it wasn't connected to the alternator as the position implied it would. I need help. When I first got down there, I looked at it and grabbed a small stick and tried to move it to position it so it would face me. I slipped and pushed it too far and the unconnected end touched the alternator metal housing and created a spark, just like when you connect a fresh battery. What is it? I've never dealt with alternator stuff, let alone electrical things inside the engine bay.

IMG_2663.jpg
 
You might have blown the mega fuse by having that power wire spark on something grounded. Not sure where the leak would be from. Unhook the battery, check the mega fuse, get that wire connected to the alt, charge your battery, see how it runs and if it is charging the battery. If all the things you checked and are good and the battery dies, then it is most likely the alternator.
 
So that wire is the power wire then? And if that is the cause, and I rev the engine beyond 2k rpm and the battery light doesn't come on, then that would be the cause?
 
that is the main wire from the batt to the alt with a stop at the starter and a mega fuse inbetween. if it isnt hooked up then your not going to be charging. The megafuse isnt likely to be blown if there is still power at the end of that wire where it is supposed to connect to the alt.

Now on to the leak. most likely would be power steering fluid cause that is really the only thing on that side of the engine. So check out the resivoir and pump areas for leaks.
 
Okay. Well, upon trying to start up the car, it won't anymore. Lights come on and everything. As I crank it up, it clicks once, the lights immediately dim at the start of the click, and the beeping noise that indicates the key is in, becomes higher pitched and about 2 times faster. Help! :cry:

Note: I haven't moved that power wire at all. It still is in the same position as it was even when the car started up before, no problem.

Edit: the lights dim and noise speeds up and becomes higher pitched while the key is on the accesory position.

2nd Edit: Hooked up a power a jumper to the battery. Everything is normal in accessory position but when I try to crank it, it just clicks like the battery would be dead. But that's impossible if I have a power jumper on there, right?
 
Thats a leaky axle fellas. Tq monster. Disc the battery, connect that power wire on the alt, Connect the batt, try to start it, jump from another vehicle if needed.
 
So, with the help of Sam, I found what it was. Turns out, like what most everyone was saying, the bolt where the power wire is bolted on, has completely broken off. Go figure, huh? :shrug:

So, I'm not sure if I'm gonna do it, or take it to the shop that we've taken our other cars to, who gives us really good service. Still debating on which because tackeling that tight space on my back, SUCKS! It would be better if I had a lift and I do it by myself, but of course everything is much better with a lift haha. So I'll be making my decision after I call the garage and ask them about what they'll be able to do for how much. Bleh.
 
That lead needs to be attached to the alternator. Most likely, the stud that it attaches to is broken, possibly from arcing from being slightly loose. Without this being attached, the alternator will not charge. You have been functioning on just the battery and it is discharging with use.

Most likely it won't start because the battery is mostly discharged. Cranking the engine is by far the largest electrical load. Your best results at this point would be to charge the battery before trying to start the car.

To further investigate the connection, it would be safest to disconnect the battery. Once that lead is not live, see if you got lucky and it will be easy to reconnect the lead to the alternator. Most likely you will need to remove the alternator and either repair or replace it.
 
Jim the bolt that the lead attaches to somehow either broke off or melted. This broke the end of the lead that it connects to. Im going to send him a new lead and hes picking up an alt tomorrow.
 
Well, this is pretty gay.

Well, this is pretty gay.

Okay. Called the shop just a few minutes ago, and here's the run down

If the shop buys the part for me (remanufactured) and installs it, they quoted me a $395 and some change fix. If I buy the part and give it to them to install, the labor cost is $220 and some change.

So far, the cheapest alternator I have found, was at O'Riellys for a remanufactured with a lifetime warranty for less than $190 that is in stock at this moment in which I could buy at this moment.

Now, options are

1. Have shop buy and install part for me
2. Buy part myself and have shop install for me
3. Do it all myself

Now, from how I looked at the alternator last night and got under there, I'm really leaning towards the shop doing it for me because I can see it would take quite a while for me to work without a lift of some sort with all the tight spaces.

What do you guys think on the prices and options? I'm really wanting to get the car back on the road as quick as possible.
 
it also looks like your alternator prematurely failed due to some sort of leak, my best guess is a leaking axel boot, so if you replace the alternator and leave that axel in there you will have another alternator failure not to far in the future. I just had this issue, my car had a brand new motor craft alternator in it when I got it 25k miles ago, the alternator quit because the axel started to leak all over the alternator. Replaced the axel and the alternator and haven't had any issues since.

Just saw your most recent post, dont get any 3rd party reman alternators, you will have problems very soon after. I personally have witnessed people putting in Pep boys or bosch or autozone brand alternators and having to go through 4-5 of them before they finally get one that doesnt throw a battery light. You are way better off going straight to Ford and ordering one, even if its a ford stock reman you will get way better than any garbage Murrays or Autozone reman alternator. Although you might also get lucky...

I specifically remember a night when I headed out to reebs' house to buy some car parts off of him. As I got there my alternator took a crap, he graciously drove me around (in his 3L turbo car! w000t!) to all of the parts places to find a good alternator, we went to 4 different places and tested 4 different alternators while at the parts store, and every one failed right out of the box, until we got to the last one which was a bosch reman that we had no issues with.
 
it also looks like your alternator prematurely failed due to some sort of leak, my best guess is a leaking axel boot, so if you replace the alternator and leave that axel in there you will have another alternator failure not to far in the future. I just had this issue, my car had a brand new motor craft alternator in it when I got it 25k miles ago, the alternator quit because the axel started to leak all over the alternator. Replaced the axel and the alternator and haven't had any issues since.

Just saw your most recent post, dont get any 3rd party reman alternators, you will have problems very soon after. I personally have witnessed people putting in Pep boys or bosch or autozone brand alternators and having to go through 4-5 of them before they finally get one that doesnt throw a battery light. You are way better off going straight to Ford and ordering one, even if its a ford stock reman you will get way better than any garbage Murrays or Autozone reman alternator. Although you might also get lucky...

I specifically remember a night when I headed out to reebs' house to buy some car parts off of him. As I got there my alternator took a crap, he graciously drove me around (in his 3L turbo car! w000t!) to all of the parts places to find a good alternator, we went to 4 different places and tested 4 different alternators while at the parts store, and every one failed right out of the box, until we got to the last one which was a bosch reman that we had no issues with.

Sam did mention about the boot. I'll probably end up doing that. So, if you have any lying around or if anyone else, send 'em my way! haha but anyways, but wouldn't the dealership ask a crap ton of money for it? Sam had gave me the link for this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...-98-99-00_W0QQitemZ270357710560QQcmdZViewItem

How do you feel about that? I know it says OEM replacement, but that doesn't mean OEM sometimes. Bought headlights like that before and turned out they were an aftermarket set that was just OEM designed and all.
 
Also, quick question. I'm pretty sure the alternator is still in good working order. Would it be any good, if possible, repair the broken bolt for where the power wire connects to? Or is that just totally and completely out of the question?
 
You can replace the broken power stud, I think you need a donor alt to take it from.
 
Hmmm, I'm still floating around in what kind of condition the broken bolt alternator is, like how much life is left in it. And if it would be cheaper just to buy a new one or even a lightly used one anyways for the trouble. Right now, I think I'm going with the new one, unless someone on here has one for sale that's in awesome condition. I'll check. But I'd really like for it to be done before the start of next Monday.
 
If you can get a stud and the bearings are still good, spend the 8 bucks and replace the brushes in it (I got mine from advance), have them test it, and if it's good, put it back in. You can change that thing yourself. I ended up dropping the Y-pipe to do it, but it gave me the best angle. I tried the write-up with the 4' of extensions, but almost stripped the one bolt head. Use a lot of PB on the bolts and an impact and they'll come off (even when I changed the pan after 9 years it worked).

I also cut my own gasket from a sheet of gasket stuff I got from NAPA about 2 years ago when I dropped the Y-pipe to change the pan gasket. If you want the part # let me know, I can get it out of the box for you. It was like 15.00 2 years ago.
 
Back
Top