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Thread: Alternator R&R Duratec

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Rather then hammering or widening slots... I would suggest using a wire brush and solvent to remove the corrosion off of the bracket and alternator before reinstalling parts. Or better yet remove the alternator bracket, sand blast it, paint it and reinstall. However obviously some people may not want to take the time or money to complete my last suggestion.
    -Mike
    If you are wondering where the avatar came from look here... Link
    98 SVT Contour - HoK TruBlue|CF roof|#49/6535 DOB 3/25/97|550whp here I come|Follow my extremely slow 3L/turbo build here Link
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  2. #12
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbbski View Post
    I just completed this job on my SVT. It took about 2-1/4 hours to remove the alternator starting with driving it into my garage. I then took it to my local rebuilder who had one in stock and after walking out $132 dollars lighter I had my rebuilt alternator to install.

    One thing I read was some people had problems getting the alt. to fit back into the slots that hold the alt to the bracket that bolts to the engine. I can see this as I had to pry out my alt. as it was a tight fit in there. The 12 years and some corrosion will do that. What i did to make it MUCH easier to install the "new" alt. was to widen the slots on the bracket.

    To to this all you have to do is get a long drift, punch, or rod and a hammer. The bracket had two double lugs. One has a threaded hole that the bolt threads into and the other is just an oversize hole the bolt goes through first before it goes through the alt. mounting hole. This large hole has a steel split sleeve in it to prevent the bolt from deforming the aluminum when the bolt gets tightened. It is only a press fit so a few hard taps on the sleeve with the hammer and punch will force the sleeve out a bit leaving the slot where the alt. fits into a bit wider. When you tighten the bolts down the sleeve is forced back into positon and all is well.

    This is correct.
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  4. #14
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    Northern California
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    Yes , this definitely made putting the alt. back in the bracket a lot easier.

  5. #15

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    The bolts can also be reached from LH side if car with VERY long extension fed through the area between the transmissin/engine and firewall. Ford Master Tech showed me that one.

  6. #16
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    I used that technique abortion ten years ago when I did my first alternator pull.
    Chris
    1998 Ford SVT Contour #3571 ....... fixing and repairing daily.

  7. #17
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    Damn...as in, eliminating the use of the flex joint?
    Mikey
    1999 SVT #0604

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by rexxdoggy View Post
    Damn...as in, eliminating the use of the flex joint?
    I think u'll still need that flex joint for one of them.
    Julian
    98.5 csvt #6226 of 6535
    Rally Inspired 3L turbo'd monsTOUR
    Modifications??? well...lets just say this ain'tcha grandma's contour

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