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blower motor not working

the wiring going into the fuse panel goes bad/melts sometimes too. Also you may need to just pull it out and clean the contacts, or recoat the pins with solder. If you look at your fuse panel with it closed, you want to look for a pair of ~10 gauge wires going into your panel at the corner on the right side towards the front of the car, on my 98 and 99 it is one green and one red wife leading into an L shaped plug. The red wire is burnt up on my 99 and I have seen the same on several others.

What I did to fix it was to recoat the pins with solder since it had melted off some, and I cut out the burnt portion of wire, and I got the connector that goes inside the plug from the parts store. You just crimp that onto the wire and slide it into the plug after removing the old one.

Same exact problem happened to me with my 95.. id check the fan switch and the wires to the fuse box (and fuses/relays of course) If the resistors are bad the blower USUALLY only works on high speed
 
From the other thread.

Thanks again FunInNorthDakota for your help.
I just wanted to follow up on what I did for the benefit of others having this problem. (I hate when a thread leaves me hanging on the final outcome)

I read in another thread or message board where a guy looked at 4 other Contours in a junkyard and all their connectors were burned up too. So I decided to buy a new one. I identified the part number as WPT-480 (Wiring Pig Tail). Surprisingly, it was for sale by Amazon, for about $33 (free shippng). Totally worth it, imo.
This is what you get:
wpt4801.jpg


and this is whats in the package:
wpt480.jpg


Anyway, installation was fairly easy (working around the fuse box is cramped). And now I'm ready for the Carolina summer heat & humidity.

Thanks again.
 
I pulled the fuse box and this is what i found. The fuse box looks so damaged that i dont think it will work even if i replace the plug. I guess i'm going to be in the market for a repalcement box if anybody has one lying around.
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100_1189.jpg

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Is that the same connector? If it is, try that first. You might get lucky and it works.

blowermotor fusebox
 
Well, of course, my luck, mine looks just like Irish's above (unless Irish snuck into my house and took those shots of my car... hmmm).

This is the wife and I's 2nd backup and so it doesn't get a lot of attention. I drive it once a week but I've been tolerant of this blower motor.

Failed tires on the backup and failed door handle on my daily put it back in need so I dug into it today.

Replacing the connector won't get it done, I need a new fuse box...

I did test the fan and it works well. I wonder how many people buy replacement fans when what they really need is that wiring?

I wonder if the replacement fan has a lower draw so it "seems" to fix the problem and masks the real problem.

Thanks very much for the help, became a quick diagnosis with the posts above. Hope this thread helps others in the future.

S
 
Thanks guys, especially for the photos. Now I have a better idea of what I'm getting into. I'm reasonably sure this is my problem, as things would work (for a while) if I played with the fuse and/or moved the fuse box (thus moving the wiring).
 
Replacing the fusebox in addition to the connector may not be necessary. Mine looked as bad as the photos and I used some small files to clean up the terminals on the fuse box.

Also, has anyone noticed if the terminals in the replacement plug fit tightly to the terminals on the fuse box? If the fit is loose, the original problem (arcing) will still be there and eventually cause the same failure.
 
Same blower problem. Works with an external 12v supply, 30A fuse on the inside fuse box is fine, and I *think* I got 9v out of the connector when it was set to on (can't remember what the fan speed setting was at the time). I'll recheck the voltages later today.

I'd considered just running my own switch and wiring it myself through the 30A fuse to bypass the factory system. I've got some triple core 16 gauge wire to run it. Does anyone see a distinct problem with this? Does the fan NEED to go through the blower resistor? It's my last-ditch solution if the wiring has gone bad.

Are there any relays I should be checking? I've only checked that 30A fuse and a random assortment of fuses in the power distribution box.

Some of the electric windows have been being temperamental, but I don't think they're on the same power system.

UPDATE:

Well, I've tried everything from fuse, to juggling relays, to blower resistor, circuit testing, voodoo sacrifice...

It's odd, I get full voltage through the system (11.5v off, 14v with engine running) on every fan speed setting, the fan works fine. The only thing I can think of is my battery is close to death.

When this fan started died initially I probably had ~5 starts left in the battery, after a full night's charging, three starts. I'm going to buy a replacement battery and see if that'll solve this fan issue. Also I need to try placing a load of some kind to the blower plug (maybe a light or something) and see if there's enough amperage for that. Here's hoping.
 
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Same as you. For me the blower relay can't get enough power from its socket to pass to the blower fuse and so forth. Found melting around most relays (could be grease of some kind) and found the power to the relay is connected to at least six pins on the two "gang plugs" connecting the fuse panel to the car. I expected power to come in to the blower on one pin. Will carry it inside and look further. (Where the he## is my Haynes manual?)

Fried Fuse Panel? Fried hi-amp supply to fuse panel from fuse 3 under the hood?

Jumping power directly from the battery to the output pin of the blower relay makes the blower work normally.

Erbid

Erbid
 
My ghetto solution was to install a new switch above the cigarette lighter to power the positive side of the blower. Turns out the ground side has the speed controller circuits.
 
Well, I didn't want to hijack anothers thread but since it appears to have been thoughly taken over .....grin. grin. please could you tell me this?

If the heater/and AC only works on High it's the blower resister. Correct? Ok. It this true on all cars? My son owns a 99 Chevy Ilumina and his will only run on high. And very loudly too. He has no clue how to fix. Thanks for letting me butt in ...:) :) :)

Sue
 
Ok so I have checked and replaced all the bad fuses under the dash and under the hood I don't know such relays are for the switch.. but after I replaced fuse 32 I believe it was a 7.5 fuse I started the car and tried to start the ac.. I heard the blower miter start and had air coming out of the vents for 5 seconds then it stopped.. so rechecked all the fuses again and all of them were good. Any idea what the problem could be? The motor is good I took it out and tested it and it worked fine.. any help is appreciated if it helps I have a 95 se contour.
 
ok so i figured out what was wrong!!!!!! its fuse 37 thats for the heater blower motor. now the problem is when i replace the fuse and just turn on the fan it runs smooth, but as soon as i set it to ac or max ac it blows the fuse within 10 seconds of setting it to ac or max ac. what can that possibly be? and i also checked the resistor it was fine :)
 
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