+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 4
1 2 3 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 36

Thread: blower motor not working

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Green Valley, Cali
    Posts
    77

    Default blower motor not working

    The blower motor quit in my 98 se v6 atx last week. It operates in no position. The blend door is working and directing heat.

    I think, from reading the forum, there are four possible causes

    a) Resistor pack
    b) ABS/Blower fuse under the hood
    c) Switch itself
    d) Wiring going into the relay under the dash.

    Have I missed anything? Any particular order I should address these in?

    Scott
    Nasa/SCCA member/racer/winner
    Nasa driving instructor

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    128

    Default

    I'd definitely check the fuse first.
    2000 Silver Frost CSVT :: #1637 :: 103k miles

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Vermillion, South Dakota
    Posts
    1,749

    Default

    the wiring going into the fuse panel goes bad/melts sometimes too. Also you may need to just pull it out and clean the contacts, or recoat the pins with solder. If you look at your fuse panel with it closed, you want to look for a pair of ~10 gauge wires going into your panel at the corner on the right side towards the front of the car, on my 98 and 99 it is one green and one red wife leading into an L shaped plug. The red wire is burnt up on my 99 and I have seen the same on several others.

    What I did to fix it was to recoat the pins with solder since it had melted off some, and I cut out the burnt portion of wire, and I got the connector that goes inside the plug from the parts store. You just crimp that onto the wire and slide it into the plug after removing the old one.
    I strongly abide by the motto, "Safety third."

    I thought what I'd do was, I'd pretend I was one of those deaf-mutes.

  4. #4

    Default

    take out the blower motor, there is one screw and turn it to counterclockwise and the whole housing with the motor pops out. Once done with that hook 12v directly to the blower motor, if it doesn't work then the motor itself is gone. most common cause is a bad ground in the motor, but its a sealed can motor so its just easier to go get a new one. if it does work just start using a volt meter and just start probing wires. turn the switch on so that it should work and probe the connector to the motor and see if you get a voltage.

    it won't be the resistor pack, if the resistor pack went then the motor would work only on high, but it would work.

    the fuse is a quick check, there is also one under the dashboard on the driver's side footwell i want to say it is fuse number 30 or 32, check that... its very rare for the switch to go bad unless there is a short or a power surge and it fried the fuses.

    there has been some extreme cases where the wiring going into and out of the internal fuse panel has melted but its rare, you can also find a thread where someone took apart the fuse panel and cleaned it and such...

    i recommend checking the fuses first then removing the blower motor and hooking it up to 12v first... the most common things to go and the easiest to fix.
    1999 Contour SE, Zetec 4cly. CAI with stock air box, velocity stacks on CAI, optimized HP exhaust headers.
    Goal: HP somewhere around 175-225. Stock look. Nice interior.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Dayton, Ohio
    Posts
    6

    Default

    I had my under the hood fusebox fall apart and has to replace that.
    1998 Contour GL - a stock 4-banger, with spoiler, but what a sweet car!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Green Valley, Cali
    Posts
    77

    Default

    I guess I failed to mention that I tested the fuse INSIDE the car, I forget the number. I also visually inspected the relay, and it looked ok (no signs of burning).

    I'll pull the motor itself and probe for voltage at the panel next, to see if its the wiring.

    Thanks guys, appreciate the help. This car has been a pain in the butt all the time I've owned it, but I still love the ergos so its hard to think about letting it go.

    I'll report my findings, might be a few days.

    Scott
    Nasa/SCCA member/racer/winner
    Nasa driving instructor

  7. #7

    Default

    yea i have come to realize that the contour is an electrical night mare... i have had problems with the wiring to the headlights (low beams only), it turned out to be the connector in the power distribution block. and the blower motor, and the rear brake lights, its just a mess... i can follow diagrams pretty easily and my dad and i will make a weekend project out of it.

    the thing that i love is that something on the engine, drivetrain, suspension, and brakes rarely fails or breaks. i mean it all needs its usual maintenance, but other then that its a very reliable vehicle. i did the rear struts myself and they weren't too bad to do, the rear brakes aren't either, the design makes no sense to me but whatever. they work and they work well... so i love the little beast, its also amazing in the snow for me... better then my girl friend's car and her's is newer, has traction control and heavier.
    1999 Contour SE, Zetec 4cly. CAI with stock air box, velocity stacks on CAI, optimized HP exhaust headers.
    Goal: HP somewhere around 175-225. Stock look. Nice interior.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    I just raced past you ;)
    Posts
    183

    Default

    lol I know its been mentioned above,check the fuse box,all the fuses,i had that problem today and i tore it all all apart only to find a blown relay fuse,well 2 actually
    There's no stupid questions, just stupid people
    1998 CSE ZETEC- Over 372,000 K's and counting~parts car now
    RESPECT MY AUTHORITAH!!
    1998 ford crown victoria-A.K.A Vikki 273,500 kms of V8 powah!!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Austin, Texas
    Posts
    4

    Default

    how do you get to the blower motor? Where is it located? I'm having the same issue, only with mine the ac would blow then the airflow would fade out and completely stop. After the air flow stopped for a while it would arbitrarily start again. This lasted a couple days then the air flow stopped completely.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    I just raced past you ;)
    Posts
    183

    Default

    its on the passenger side behind the glove box,its kinda a pain to get to tho
    There's no stupid questions, just stupid people
    1998 CSE ZETEC- Over 372,000 K's and counting~parts car now
    RESPECT MY AUTHORITAH!!
    1998 ford crown victoria-A.K.A Vikki 273,500 kms of V8 powah!!

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 4
1 2 3 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. HVAC blower stops working when I hit big bumps...
    By Damien in forum General Troubleshooting
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 08-01-2008, 01:32 PM
  2. burned plug on blower switch
    By jdfet in forum General Troubleshooting
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 02-12-2008, 09:59 PM
  3. Electrical Diagram for a/c and heater blower
    By sdad in forum General Troubleshooting
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 12-19-2007, 09:55 AM
  4. No Blower for the HVAC, getting Hot!!
    By Ra\/en in forum General Troubleshooting
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 06-15-2007, 07:26 AM
  5. GTOhhhhhh
    By TexasRealtor in forum Common Interests
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 01-03-2007, 06:51 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts