Power Window One-Touch-Down Relay

Recently I have been having a problem with my driver side power window the nature of which is as follows. On numerous occasions when I press the power window switch for the window to go down/up the window will not budge i.e. will not either go up or down. I will have to keeping pressing the switch several times before it will go up/down. It should be noted that while pressing the switch I keep hearing a clicking sound. As a result I have concluded that the On-Touch-Down relay is defective. I have been trying to locate a replacement unit with no success and consequently using this medium to ascertain whether anyone has the correct part number for this relay and can advise where I can obtain same.
The usual helpful response will be greatly appreciated

sounds more like either the switch or the regulator itself if its havng issues going up as well since the one touch relay is only in use when going down.

i have the same problem with my passenger window. sometimes it goes down from the passenger switch but it always goes down with the drivers switch.

I hate that one touch feature. I'd rather defeat it, and I will if I ever have to go inside that door. Gotta be a way to wire around it to get normal up/down without that. Probably cost only a few cents.

i agree, i don't think the one touch relay is your problem. I also think the one touch relay is part of the circuit when going up and down as the motor grounds through the relay. What is it about the feature (when it works) that you don't like ? Removing the relay is quite simple. The relay is basically sitting between the switch and the motor. If you do remove it ..i'm sure there are lots of people that would be glad to have it. As for the problem, i put wd40 down the window runners to keep the windows running smoothly. It could be alignment too. Take the door panel off and loosen the window carrier bolts (3). Now close the window and then tighten the bolts back up. This ensures the glass carrier is correctly aligned. My windows speeded up alot after i did this...hope it helps....G

Three window carrier bolts?? The window is held to the slide by two bolts, neither of which is accessible with the window all the way up. The only way to locate them is to have the window half way down so the bolts line up with the holes in the door. The three bolts holding the motor to the door have nothing whatsoever to do with the alignment of the glass and the door is slotted to seat the motor in just one way. There's really no adjustment needed or possible there.

Regarding the OPs issue, if you're hearing an audible clicking, then odds are the relay is working fine. I suppose it's possible the switch itself might be shorting out. I just swapped out my driver's door regulator a week and a half ago. Prior to the swap, I had grinding and no up and down due to a mangled cable in the assy., but after swapping everything out with a (known and tested) working regulator, I too now have an intermittently working window. I swapped relays and still had the same problem. I did unplug the motor and put a meter on it. I'm not sure exactly how much power the motor needs to draw, but I was reading betweet 8-9 volts when I hit the switch up or down. I wonder if it might be that sometimes it just isn't drawing enough power to move the glass?

Regarding the auto-down feature, it seems that Ford used a completely different switch set-up for MY98 only. Most here know that the switches are different (bulbous, not flat). The auto-down in this case is not a seperate relay, but rather a two position switch. Push it part way, and the window goes down only until you release the switch. Press it harder to the second position and it goes into auto-down mode. If it IS a relay in combination with the two position switch, then it's a completely different relay than is used in the other model years, as it is completely silent (no clicking). I have no idea why Ford went back to the original design for MY98.5+. I much prefer the switches in my 98 to either the pre-98 or the 98.5+.

Mine is a '98. I accidentally picked up on that partial touch two step feature. It's just too touchy, I like my window cracked about two inches a lot. Half the time I hit it just a wee too much and all the way down. Invariably, it's like 20 degrees outside when that happens. Just give me an ordinary button, I don't need all that trick s__t. I've seen working on a few of these windows that anything that adds load to motor can stop window from coming up. Safety issues decree that motor has just enough power to get window up and nothing more. If say motor just needs breaking down to re-lube it up can make it go back to working great.

IRingTwyce said:

Three window carrier bolts?? The window is held to the slide by two bolts, neither of which is accessible with the window all the way up. The only way to locate them is to have the window half way down so the bolts line up with the holes in the door. The three bolts holding the motor to the door have nothing whatsoever to do with the alignment of the glass and the door is slotted to seat the motor in just one way. There's really no adjustment needed or possible there.

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you're correct it is 2 not 3 bolts...but adjusting them in the fashion i described does ensure correct alignment.

IRingTwyce said:

Regarding the OPs issue, if you're hearing an audible clicking, then odds are the relay is working fine. I suppose it's possible the switch itself might be shorting out.

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the switch can't short out cos there is no ground and if it was shorting out the fuse would blow. If you mean shorting across its' contacts..then the switch would be effectively pressed all the time and your battery would be flat.

IRingTwyce said:

Regarding the auto-down feature, it seems that Ford used a completely different switch set-up for MY98 only. Most here know that the switches are different (bulbous, not flat). The auto-down in this case is not a seperate relay, but rather a two position switch. Push it part way, and the window goes down only until you release the switch. Press it harder to the second position and it goes into auto-down mode. If it IS a relay in combination with the two position switch, then it's a completely different relay than is used in the other model years, as it is completely silent (no clicking). I have no idea why Ford went back to the original design for MY98.5+. I much prefer the switches in my 98 to either the pre-98 or the 98.5+.

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you guys must have different stuff to us..cos we have bulbus switches with two positions and one touch relays. If you want to crack the window open two inches you press down once to open the window and you press down again to stop it...does that work on yours ?...this sounds like the problem is a faulty connection since the circuit does work with some persistance. Check plugs, connectors and terminals. Oh and plenty of wd40 since the stuff inside the door skin is exposed to moisture. ..G.

volcar said:

It should be noted that while pressing the switch I keep hearing a clicking sound. As a result I have concluded that the On-Touch-Down relay is defective.

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if you can hear the relay clicking...then it is working. Make sure the window runs freely, as the window runners wear the glass tends to twist when it first starts to move.....G.

My relay makes no noise at all and works fine as is, I just don't like how it works. I want touch button, window moves until you let button go. Touch to start and then to stop just wears your button assembly out twice as fast. Useless, unless you own Ford stock. When I touch the button deep enough it goes all the way to bottom, there's no stopping it. Also, on WD40 on window channels, it'll work good until it dries out. I'm in Texas. When it gets hot enough, I've seen WD40 dry up to a sticky substance that defies description. Think old dried out but gooey bubblegum. Not really the thing for door interiors that you don't go into every year, as linkages will start sticking. I use antiseize compound.

amc49 said:

When I touch the button deep enough it goes all the way to bottom, there's no stopping it. .

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try pressing the up once..to stop it where you want.These switches take alot of use before they break..and they're cheap to replace (classifieds).

amc49 said:

Also, on WD40 on window channels, it'll work good until it dries out. I'm in Texas. When it gets hot enough, I've seen WD40 dry up to a sticky substance that defies description. Think old dried out but gooey bubblegum. Not really the thing for door interiors that you don't go into every year, as linkages will start sticking. I use antiseize compound.

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It doesn't last forever here either..but it does tell you whether it is sticking...could do with some of that sunshine here..brrrr..(but not as much as california !!) G.

UH, I'm an idiot. Checked it out today. Light touch is all the way down with only a touch, and heavy touch deeper is stop at button release. Backward of what I said before. Also, a second stab at the button (down)WILL stop the window at that point in it's tracks. You'd think I'd know that after owning car for 10 years....I apologize to anyone that read and realized I'm so stupid.

i'd like to bet a couple of bucks you were not alone in not realizing..:laugh:. At least you can enjoy your windows again...G.