Car Alarm Installation Question

[mjwood0]

Long story short, I'm installing a Viper 560XV Alarm / Remote start in my 95 Contour SE ATX.

So far, all has gone well. I don't have it working totally since I'm installing it in pieces since I drive the vehicle every day. Right now, the alarm arms and disarms just fine but I don't have anything hooked up to the power locks / trunk release.

I do have the factory remote door locks and power trunk release.

1. Is there any way I can tap into the factory system behind the glove box and not have to go to the drivers kick panel for the locks?
2. Does anyone know if hooking into the factory system I can avoid needing relays (use the ones already there)?
3. What color wire am I looking for to use to power the trunk release?
4. Do I need a relay for the trunk?
5. Finally, if I need relays, where is the best place to get them (locally if possible) at a good price?

I realize these questions are a little basic, but I don't have a factory remote so I can't push buttons and see what wires do what.

Thanks for any help!

[BrApple]

I suppose it depends on how the system works ... iirc from when i installed my Ford add on alarm the keyless entry sends a burst signal to make the locks and the trunk work, if you alarm works this way then you should be able to connect to the stock keyless entry .... but then again it was designed to work with the factory keyless entry ...

but don't take my word for it as I am not really sure ...

[mjwood0]

Thanks. That's just my problem as well. There are a couple smaller guage wires going into the factory system. I would assume that these are coil control wires for a relay. But without a remote, I can't probe them and see what happens when I press buttons.

Anyone else have any ideas?

[BrApple]

get a remote cheap off ebay or find someone that is near by to you and program their remote to your car and try it out ...

[Steeda...]

What and what?

Use the freaking lock and unlock wires in the kick its simple. yes you need 2 relays and a relay for the trunk

no you can't use the factory wires for the keyless and not use relays.

heres your wiring just becuase its almost thanksgiving and im being nice

DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - FORD / CONTOUR / 1995 / Remote Start


[PRINT THIS PAGE]


12volts red + ignition harness
Starter gray/white + ignition harness
Second Starter
Ignition green + ignition harness
Second Ignition
Third Ignition
Accessory yellow + ignition harness
Second Accessory
Keysense
Power Lock white/green + high in driver kick or
Notes: Also found at the keyless module located behind the glovebox, high in passenger kick panel. There are two yellow/purple wires - one unlocks drivers door and the other unlocks the rest of the doors. These two wires are common at rest through the keyless entry module. Diode isolate and pulse (+) to operate. Lock is white/purple at keyless module. May need relays.
Power Unlock yellow/green + high in driver kick or
Notes: Also found at the keyless module located behind the glovebox, high in passenger kick panel. There are two yellow/purple wires - one unlocks drivers door and the other unlocks the rest of the doors. These two wires are common at rest through the keyless entry module. Diode isolate and pulse (+) to operate. Lock is white/purple at keyless module. May need relays.
Lock Motor white/purple keyless module
Notes: Also found at the keyless module located behind the glovebox, high in passenger kick panel. There are two yellow/purple wires - one unlocks drivers door and the other unlocks the rest of the doors. These two wires are common at rest through the keyless entry module. Diode isolate and pulse (+) to operate. Lock is white/purple at keyless module
Unlock Motor yellow/purple keyless module
Notes: Also found at the keyless module located behind the glovebox, high in passenger kick panel. There are two yellow/purple wires - one unlocks drivers door and the other unlocks the rest of the doors. These two wires are common at rest through the keyless entry module. Diode isolate and pulse (+) to operate. Lock is white/purple at keyless module
Parking Lights+ red/blue (x2) headlight switch
Parking Lights-
Hazards
Turn Signal(L)
Turn Signal(R)
Reverse Light
Door Trigger wht/blk, wht/red - at fuse box
Notes: White/black is drivers door, white/red is passenger doors. Diode isolate.
Dome Supervision use door trigger
Trunk/Hatch Pin black or blk/org - trunk light
Hood Pin black/white - hood pin switch
Trunk/Hatch Release orange/green + release switch
Notes: Also found at the keyless module located behind the glovebox, high in passenger kick panel. There are two yellow/purple wires - one unlocks drivers door and the other unlocks the rest of the doors. These two wires are common at rest through the keyless entry module. Diode isolate and pulse (+) to operate. Lock is white/purple at keyless module
Power Sliding Door
Factory Alarm Arm
Factory Alarm Disarm
Disarm No Unlock
Tachometer wht/blk or wht/grn AC ignition module
Notes: The ignition control module is in the center rear of the engine compartment. Can also use any brown/stripe at the coil pack.
Wait to start
Brake Wire orange/yellow + brake pedal switch
Parking Brake
Horn Trigger black/blue - steering column
Memory Seat 1
Memory Seat 2
Memory Seat 3
Interface Module: Category:
Immobilizer Bypass Required:
No Type:
N/A
Part #: N/A
Notes:
Smart Starter Kill Relays: Not Available




This wiring information is being provided free of charge on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty. It is your responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter.
Directed Electronics assumes no responsibility with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer. DEI assumes no liability or responsibility resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information.

[mjwood0]

Steeda --

Thanks a lot. The wiring information I had (from the12volt.com) didn't have all the information with respect to what wires controlled the locks from the keyless module. I realize that it would be just as easy to go to the drivers kick, but I removed the factory AMP back behind the glove box and am making a mounting plate for my relays, fused power distribution and alarm "brains" to mount in the amps place. Therefore, it is simply neater for me to connect directly to the keyless wires.

So far, all is going well. Picked up some relays for the door locks and trunk. Need to get some diodes to isolate a few things. Hope to have it all wrapped up by the end of next weekend.

Thanks to everyone for their help! Hopefully, I'll be all set now.

[Steeda...]

Just so you know i don't diode isolate anything. if you use the lock wires on the driver side it controls all of them. Also for door trigger use the light that illuminates the floor well.

[mjwood0]

Thanks for the advise. I'm not sure but I thought the light in the floor well was on a 12 second delay. Therefore, I couldn't arm the alarm until 12 seconds after the door was closed. Sure would be easier than diode isolating things...

[Steeda...]

it will still arm but the trigger wont work for 12 seconds. soo if someone can get into your car in 12 seconds then holy **** you need to move!

What it is doing will be totally undetectable to you. and will automatically sense it once the light goes out if its reactivated

[mjwood0]

Great! That's much simpler. Not that I don't like soldering diodes near my fuse box and all :-)

Picked up some wire loom today as well. Trying to make this somewhat stealth until you take off the glove box. If they get that far, well... I've got more problems than that!

Thanks again!