• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

A/C Issues

Matt R

Hard-core CEG'er
Moderator
Joined
Jun 6, 2004
Messages
2,787
Location
Plattsburgh, NY
My car drives like the A/C is always on (sluggish), but when I turn on the A/C, it feels like I'm stepping on the brakes, it's that bad. A/C works ok, not ice cold, but cold enough. Ideas?
 
Hmm...Are your brakes dragging? Air filter cleaned and oiled? Maybe the throttle cable could have gotten a bit loose? It's kinda hard to say...If I end up going to the park meet maybe getting a ride in it will make things more clear :shrug:. I know that's kinda far away though :(
 
Eh I'll wait. Brapple should be there, he can hook up his little PDA thing to it. I swear that thing does everything but wash the car.
 
Eh I'll wait. Brapple should be there, he can hook up his little PDA thing to it. I swear that thing does everything but wash the car.

Good idea! I am secretly in love with his PDA :drool: :laugh:. It might be possible that some of your R-134a leaked out there, Matt, but you definitely have something else going on... :(
 
Seizing ac compressor?

Seizing ac compressor?

Is your air compressor giving up the ghost? a siezing compressor will put one hell of a drag on the engine and a seized ac compressor can actually prevent the engine from starting if it has also taken the clutch with it.

Hope that's not your problem as it is damn expensive to fix. Not only a new compressor and clutch but the line with a filter needs to be replaced as well as the condensor. The latter parts to clean out the shavings generated by the compressor.
 
This one is easy. Remove the serp belt and drive the car (briefly). If it's much better, it's probably a seized compressor. I'm betting it will still run crappy though.
 
Is your air compressor giving up the ghost? a siezing compressor will put one hell of a drag on the engine and a seized ac compressor can actually prevent the engine from starting if it has also taken the clutch with it.

Hope that's not your problem as it is damn expensive to fix. Not only a new compressor and clutch but the line with a filter needs to be replaced as well as the condensor. The latter parts to clean out the shavings generated by the compressor.

LOL, that is why I said screw it and threw on the short belt and called it a day... Sucks not having A/C though :cry:
 
This one is easy. Remove the serp belt and drive the car (briefly). If it's much better, it's probably a seized compressor. I'm betting it will still run crappy though.

So if it's still running crappy, what do you think it is?


BTW, at idle with the AC on, something rattles pretty loud.
 
Matt, funny you should post this now. My kid pulled up today and I heard this god awful noise coming from his 'tour.

Sounds like a rhythmic metallic ringing almost, and it's in the area of the A/C compressor. Rattles like a bish.

I had him pull it up on the ramps and I got under it to look. The metal ring on the A/C clutch is loose and "jingles" around a little with the A/C off. I had him turn on the A/C and it goes away, but the compressor is still sounding a bit sick.

I'm thinking I can just toss the short belt on and drive it until I want to fix the A/C.

Does the short belt fit OK without removing the A/C compressor?
 
Matt, you better get that addressed ASAP. I yanked the belt and put the short one on last night. The A/C compressor pulley is loose as can be, the clutch is ready to go.

I had a high RPM vibration that I couldn't track down. That was it. BTW, the short belt fits fine with no interference with the compressor left in place.

I'll deal with it later; time and money issues. :blackeye:
 
Not a seized compressor, as he say's it's working fine when A/C engaged (on). Definitely a correct diagnose - compressor clutch on it's way out.
 
I have bought just the bearing to bring a clutch back to life along with dressing the clutch flats with a file to get more engagement on them if the magnet still pulls well. That can give added lease on life, got a couple with that done and several years ago. The three rubber dampers must still be solid as well. You have to save it before the bearing totally tears up to lock the housing up and tears the inside surface up then. Bearing a little high at around $40 and hard to find separate but cheaper than entire clutch.
 
Back
Top