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Thread: Wax/protectant technique

  1. Default Wax/protectant technique

    For years I've been using the circular motion technique to apply wax by hand. I've noticed that circular motion leaves lots of "empty" spots where the wax is wiped off due to the overlapping motion. Though the end result doesn't seem to be affected by the visual lack of wax in certain spots. I've recently started using Rejex protectant and samething happens. I'm wondering if circular motion is the most effective or efficient method by hand, or is a light, slow, wiping motion like staining wood good? Plus I'm wondering if applying waxing/protectant is more spreading (ie, light, as long as the product is distributed) than rubbing in (ie, harder, like you're trying to push the product in)?? Any thought welcome.

  2. #2
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    Wax is non abrasive, so you can wipe it in which ever way you feel works best. Apply wax gently but thoroughly, no need to go slow like staining wood.

    Wax is supposed to be applied VERY thin, until it dries to a haze. Don't worry about overlapping sections.

    Check this out:

    http://www.meguiars.co.uk/Meg_Videos/TECH_WAX_300.wmv
    TRed CSVT on FSVTs.. in pieces for now!
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2154233

  3. #3

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    i have always gone in circles. i dont apply force, i just rub it. i go through the stages of waxing, which i have taken 2-3days to complete but the outcome is unbelievable. i had my saturn looking so good, you couldnt tell the paint was 9 years old. it was so smooth, anything you sat on it fell right off even in flat spots.

    i wash, run cleaner wax over, clay bar, cleaner wax again, sealer/glaze, then pure brazilian carnuba which i absolutely love. its so thin and easy to deal with and makes the paint have incredible depth. i love the mothers products.

    here is a picture of my car during a meet we had. voted cleanest and shiniest car. everyone wants me to detail their cars now. picture isnt big since i resized it, but should be able to tell pretty well.
    Shining at a meet
    1997 Saturn SL2-project car (salvaged now, current tear down)
    1996 Ford Contour-DD, up and running again

    STC-OH member

    My SL2 and other cars

  4. #4

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    When talking about "wax," we often interchange the term with pure wax or cleaner wax. Regardless, a random circular motion is most often utilized (e.g., random-orbital polisher motions). The video link above illustrates popular procedures for common finishing products. For best results, follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

    For your "dilemma," Andy, it's possible a little more product needs to be used and spread over the entire applicator. And it's possible the applicator needs to be upgraded to to a foam or microfiber-covered foam applicator (not knowing what you're using). So long as the end result is satisfactory, what's going on is probably just fine.
    1998 SVT Contour
    Silver Frost

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by saturnspeed_12 View Post
    i go through the stages of waxing, which i have taken 2-3days to complete but the outcome is unbelievable.
    I have a question about this. If you are spending 2-3 days waxing your car, are you driving it inbetween these stages? I'm always afraid of waiting too long after a wash to wax because of wind and dust, and that's just overnight.
    Chris
    1998.5 Black Ford Contour SE 2.5 V6 MTX
    1988 Rosso Red Merkur XR4Ti 2.3T I4 AT


  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotdimmes View Post
    I have a question about this. If you are spending 2-3 days waxing your car, are you driving it inbetween these stages? I'm always afraid of waiting too long after a wash to wax because of wind and dust, and that's just overnight.
    You use a spray detailer between waxes to get the thin coat of dust or dirt off. 2-3 days is way over the top. The most I've heard professional detailers wait between 2 seperate coats is 12 hours. 2-3 days would be though.

    Know two guys that do cars like these daily: http://kfox.gamehorizons.net/supra1.jpg

    Check out http://autopia.org for all your other needs
    Last edited by Berkel; 11-07-2006 at 04:15 PM.
    TRed CSVT on FSVTs.. in pieces for now!
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2154233

  7. #7

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    oh no, i didnt drive it during that period. pull it outside, clean it up, go back in garage, then do the same next day. but yeah if i did drive it, i would spray detail it first.

    but the reason it took so long is because what i was doing. and i guess i added in cleaning interior too. i went to every crack and wiped every bit away, dust and everything inside door, fuel door, trunk, hood, even detailed engine.

    clay barring a car takes a long time, and gets very tiring afterwards.
    1997 Saturn SL2-project car (salvaged now, current tear down)
    1996 Ford Contour-DD, up and running again

    STC-OH member

    My SL2 and other cars

  8. Default

    Hey, thanks for the great replies. As I said in the original post, the end result doesn't seem to be affected by the spots rubbed off during application. I was just really curious how to get an even layer of haze. I use the foam applicator that comes with the carnauba wax or a cloth covered sponge. I've got lots of microfiber cloths from cloth diapering, maybe I should wrap that around foam or something firm yet conforming...

  9. #9
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    it will help to run a clay bar over the paint as well, i usually do this before i wax, then use a polimer sealant on top. turns out like glass. meguires is by far the best clay.

  10. Default

    Yup, I use Clay Magic before waxing. It makes a huge difference to the touch. Don't know if visually I see anything different. I do have a lighter colored car so not as sensitive to dirt, etc.

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