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A few things wrong...

K

KerryKool

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Sep 29, 2004
Messages
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Location
Tampa, FL
I paid Ford $400 to tell me whats wrong with my car and they give me a list of parts.:mad: They wanted $2,390 to fix everything. :blackeye:

Anyway, I need to know where the IAC motor is. That is the only thing on the list that confuses me. They also told me the MAF, Fuel Pump, and all of the timing belt(was replaced 20k mi ago) needs replacing too.

One more thing, if anyone has a Zetec parts car, pm me some prices of the above items. Low miles preferred.

Thanks -Kerry
 
Idle Air Control. Under the TB, easy to get to from the top and change. Dont bother cleaning it.

I would try cleaning the MAF before replacing it though.
 
You happen to know the part number to the IAC? I can't seem to find it on Team Ford Parts website.
 
Well I'll figure away to get at it.

I'm going to replace the fuel pump and filter. But should I spend the extra money to get oem parts or will duralast parts do just as good?
 
Here's my game plan. Tommorrow pick-up a fuel filter and fuel pump at advance, autozone or napa. Replace old ones and test. If still bad, order IAC from team Ford and install. Hopefully that will fix it. The timing belt looked fine but I'll take a closer look at it if I still have problems.

My original codes were for the EGR(332 +335), but I checked it and cleaned it but it still gave me the codes for malfunctioning EGR.
 
KerryKool said:
Here's my game plan. Tommorrow pick-up a fuel filter and fuel pump at advance, autozone or napa. Replace old ones and test. If still bad, order IAC from team Ford and install. Hopefully that will fix it. The timing belt looked fine but I'll take a closer look at it if I still have problems.

My original codes were for the EGR(332 +335), but I checked it and cleaned it but it still gave me the codes for malfunctioning EGR.
Click to expand...
The EGR codes sound like its probably your DPFE sensor as thats how it measures flow. either that or the EGR valve is stuck closed (less likely on our cars). you can very the egr valve works by hooking a piece of vacuum hose to it and sucking on it while at idle. if the idle changes then the valve is opening and is functioning properly.
 
Ahh, but I thought of that too. This happend at a car meet and one of the guys(HolyrollerzC3) had a spare DPFE sensor. We hooked it up but got a different code(335.) The original caode was 332 and 33. I will try that vacuum test after I replace the fuel filter and pump.
 
I gotta warn you guys about teamfordparts.com

They used to be the best around but the last two times I ordered from them, I ended up having to return the part. I did everything by the book but never received credit for my return. No one will answer my emails, either. They only owe me about $30-40, but I won't be dealing with them again.
 
mcgarvey said:
I gotta warn you guys about teamfordparts.com

They used to be the best around but the last two times I ordered from them, I ended up having to return the part. I did everything by the book but never received credit for my return. No one will answer my emails, either. They only owe me about $30-40, but I won't be dealing with them again.
Click to expand...
really? i order stuff from Bill Jenkins all the time. only once was there ever a problem (the online catalog from Ford was wrong, not teamfords fault) and he was more than willing to help me out with it. If you talk with him directly, phone/PMs/IMs, everything goes very smooth. :shrug:
 
ohsigmachi said:
Really? I replaced the one on my 96 in a parking lot with a dollar store tool kit took about 45 minutes
:shrug:
Click to expand...

Thats good to know. I got kinda worried it was going to be a hassel.

But a little update, Fuel pump and filter have been replaced, now to try and replicate the symptoms.
 
Well, I do take back what I said about teamfordparts.com. Now after two months of waiting Bill J contacted me and got everything straightened out. It seems something went wrong the first couple of times I emailed him and he never got the message. All is well now and I will order from him again.
 
Good to hear TeamFordParts settled things out. But on to another update...

Car stalls out once shifted into gear(Drive). The code I got was 33, which means the EGR not opening or seated properly. The car starts and idles fine, but once put into gear it stalls out everytime. And after it stalls out, it gets harder to start the car without giving some gas to it.

Any ideas?
 
try the suck test on the EGR valve that i describbed earlier. if the valve does open then you could be in need of the solenoid that controls vacuum to the EGR valve.
 
Just did the suck test and idle changes. I even made it stall, so my guess is that the EGR is good.

Also to note, once idling fine, shifting into reverse and netrual do nothing abnormal, once into drive, the car quits. A quick search on google say IAC, PCV, or the torque converter:)blackeye:) are some causes to the stalling once put into gear.

Keep feeding the ideas!
 
When it stalls, does it feel like a stick shift would if you put it in gear and let the clutch out fast without giving it any gas?

Sounds like your torque converter is stuck in lockup.
 
Well I hope its not the torque converter. And I'm not ruling it out but Ford didn't mention it so as of right now I'll replace the easier parts.

But what should I replace first, IAC or the EGR solenoid? Ford had the IAC on the parts they were going to replace but as striker2 mentioned it sounds like the solenoid.

And is it easy to replace the PCV valve? I might just replace it being its cheap and maybe one of my problems.

I'll update when more is done.
 
i would get a couple used solenoids from a junk yard. i would also probably go ahead and replace the PCV valve (although unless you have alot of blow-by i cant see it really changing anything). i would hold off on the IAC for now since they arent cheap.
 
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