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Thread: Returnless Fuel Pump Replacement w/Motorcraft PFS289

  1. Default Returnless Fuel Pump Replacement w/Motorcraft PFS289

    I have scanned the instruction Manual for the Motorcraft Fuel Pump Replacement.

    This is the PFS289 fuel tank "Kit" that includes everything. Rubber O ring, Lock Ring, Convolute, Nylon Lock ring for the fuel neck, rubber grommet for the fuel neck, updated flapper etc. This kit addresses many issues with the Contour Returnless fuel system, including the stuttering/bucking (what my 00 CSVT was doing), the shutoff when filling up (didn't have an issue here), and removal of the swirl chamber/swirl pot.

    The one thing that is NOT included in this kit is the Rotunda Cutter tool (Part number 310-133) which is a bronze tipped cutter that is used to nip the tabs that hold the existing swirl pot in the bottom of the tank. This tool with my discount is 180.00, and I find them online for 230+!! I checked with a local tech at the Ford Dealer and he told me that they use cutting dikes to cut them, do not twist or rock as the tabs are part of the lower tank floor. CUT ONLY. As long as they are in a ventilated area. ***DISCLAIMER** I am not advising or recommending you remove the tabs like this. This is merely what I have been told!!! Always use eye and skin protection when working with gasoline. Make sure area is well ventilated!!!

    The directions are for complete tank removal but I think most of us here will be cutting a hole below the back seat.

    I will post this at another board as well. Please do NOT recopy and link these photos elsewhere. I'm sharing with you guys because I am appreciative of the vast amount of information that I have received by searching the forums and doing lots of reading, so its nice to give back now and then. I will be tackling this job myself this weekend and I'll do a write up/Pictorial.














    Continued Below...
    00 SilFro CSVT
    03 Marauder - Garage Queen
    01 F-250 Powerstroke

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    CONTINUED












    Thats all Ladies and Gents!

    I hope you found this helpful!
    00 SilFro CSVT
    03 Marauder - Garage Queen
    01 F-250 Powerstroke

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    3,382

    Default

    I guess I'm confused about why the tank needs to come off for a fuel pump replacement and why you'd need a cuting tool for anything.
    2000 "Amazon" Tropic Green CSVT #836/2150

  4. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dyoel182 View Post
    I guess I'm confused about why the tank needs to come off for a fuel pump replacement and why you'd need a cuting tool for anything.
    I will not be removing my tank, since I plan on cutting the access hole.

    They are calling for tank removal for:

    1. Easier to remove without cutting the body of the car (dealers probably dont want to do this and have customers upset that they hacked their car)

    2. modding the flapper on the fill neck

    3. easier to remove the swirl pot and work with the tank on a bench

    Cutting tool is for removing the swirl pot. The new fuel pump does not lock into the swirl pot. It is the more typical spring loaded ordeal that will hang from the upper half of the pump assembly. Installing the redesigned pump will not work unless you remove the swirl pot.
    00 SilFro CSVT
    03 Marauder - Garage Queen
    01 F-250 Powerstroke

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Penfield, NY
    Posts
    2,675

    Default

    The redesigned pump is a better design. It is essentially the Focus pump housing modified to fit the Contour tank.

    FWIW, i'm running one in my SVT. The previous owner gave me the pump when I bought the car. He bought it and couldn't figure out how to put it in.
    00 SVT 0150 - 3.0/HMS/Torsen/Koni The Dark Knight
    99 Cougar - Powered by SVT The White Knight

  6. #6

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    Anyone else have the pics that went with this thread handy?

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    Pics would be nice, a few questions, are the fuel neck mods a necessity? and has anyone found a way to remove the swirl pot without that tool?

  8. #8

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    1- The fuel flapper mod is not necessary if you aren't having fill issues. However, this doesn't mean you never will and if you have access to all the tools you'd need you might want to do it all at once. It is really up to you.

    2- As the original thread states plainly, cutting dykes can be used to remove the tabs at the bottom of the tank. It is NOT recommended by Ford or any official "how to" but as long as you are careful and work in a well ventilated area then dykes SHOULD be fine.

    3- You do have to cut your floor if you decide not to drop the tank so if you don't want to hack into your car then you have to drop the tank. I've done tank drops/pump changes on Mustangs before and it really isn't that difficult. On a Contour you do have to mess with the exhaust a bit but get the car on a lift or on jackstands and it shouldn't be very hard to do.

    Lucky for me my 2000 SVT pump seems to be holding up nicely and no flapper issues yet, however I think I'm going to drop the tank when I do it because I am anal retentive and I KNOW with my luck I'd cut my floor, change the pump and promptly have flapper issues a month later...
    -00' Contour SVT #1245 of 2150. Trubendz Borla exhaust, BAT Catted Y, Spec shifter, Injen CAI, NPG Big Brakes.
    -95' Cobra SVT #3914 of 4005. Too much to list. 301whp/325wtq.

  9. Default

    What are the "flapper issues"? I bought a new fuel pump because my car will buck and stumble when fuel drops below 1/4. I was told that was due to the attached filter becoming clogged/dirty. What I got was a box of lots of parts and directions that look like I can basically rebuild the entire fuel system with.

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