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Thread: Braided Stainless Steel Brake Lines

  1. #1
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    Exclamation Braided Stainless Steel Brake Lines

    For anyone upgrading to braided lines, be sure to check whether you have the right fitting on them for the rear connection to the hard line.
    On my 2000 the hard line had a female connector.
    SVT Kid said that he also had this issue on his 2000, but it wasn't like that on any of his other SVTs.
    If you have the female hard line connector you will need to get an M10 x 1.0 mm male to male brass coupler to make the connection and these aren't readily available in autopart or hardware stores.
    Don't get caught like I did.
    00 Silver Frost SVTC #1429/2150: Born 10 Jan, 2000
    3.0L, Spec Stage 3 Clutch, LSD, Koni Sport Kit +more

  2. #2
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    which lines did you get? The DOT approved goodridge ones or the other ones?
    Chris
    1998.5 Black Ford Contour SE 2.5 V6 MTX
    1988 Rosso Red Merkur XR4Ti 2.3T I4 T5 MT
    1982 Candy Flare Blue Honda CB650SC Nighthawk

  3. #3
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    Yeah, I've been meaning to check mine but I keep forgetting. I've had my lines sitting around for a couple months now. I'd hate to find out it was the wrong setup when it comes time to install.
    1998 SVT Contour 3L (B/MNB) #542 (His)
    2000 SVT Contour (SF/MNB) #1533 (Hers)
    2003 BMW 540i M-Sport (6 spd)
    2002 Cougar XR - XR Racing Red
    2002 Lexus IS300 SOLD!!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotdimmes View Post
    which lines did you get? The DOT approved goodridge ones or the other ones?
    I got the Goodrich ones, but I think this would apply to any kit as it seems like most cars had the standard male connector on the end of the hard line.
    00 Silver Frost SVTC #1429/2150: Born 10 Jan, 2000
    3.0L, Spec Stage 3 Clutch, LSD, Koni Sport Kit +more

  5. #5
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    the brand of lines doesnt matter in this case. from my incident, and now SVTC1136's incident, i have come to believe that for some reason ford switched the hard lines on late 2000 production models.. i used aeroquip ss lines that i took off of my other early production 2000 csvt when i put wilwoods on it, and figured that they would fit on mine the same. well, when i tried the fittings were different on the hard lines. i was like WTF!! i checked my 2000, my 99, and even the 98 bondurant car and all had the male adapters on the lines.. i think its just a switch ford made in the middle of the production, for whatever reason. doesnt really surprise me, fords done that before..
    00 black CSVT - my dd
    99 silver CSVT - 3L turbo project

  6. #6
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    slightly off topic but does anyone have a braided ss line install guide. I know it seems obvious but I always get confused as to what to flush first and whatnot.
    Chris
    1998.5 Black Ford Contour SE 2.5 V6 MTX
    1988 Rosso Red Merkur XR4Ti 2.3T I4 T5 MT
    1982 Candy Flare Blue Honda CB650SC Nighthawk

  7. #7
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    Look at the how-to's on the main page for the bleeding sequence, theres one for bleeding the brakes "pedal pumping style"
    Changing the lines is really that easy. My only tip - soak all the connections with wd40 for as long as you can to make sure you don't break anything.
    00 Silver Frost SVTC #1429/2150: Born 10 Jan, 2000
    3.0L, Spec Stage 3 Clutch, LSD, Koni Sport Kit +more

  8. #8
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    I don't know what prod number yours is SVTkid, but I had no problems installing my brake lines and my car is #1321, later than SVTC1136's (though I guess only two days later).
    2009 Honda...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by SVTC1136 View Post
    Look at the how-to's on the main page for the bleeding sequence, theres one for bleeding the brakes "pedal pumping style"
    Changing the lines is really that easy. My only tip - soak all the connections with wd40 for as long as you can to make sure you don't break anything.
    But when do you actually swap out the line? Before flushing? After?
    Chris
    1998.5 Black Ford Contour SE 2.5 V6 MTX
    1988 Rosso Red Merkur XR4Ti 2.3T I4 T5 MT
    1982 Candy Flare Blue Honda CB650SC Nighthawk

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotdimmes View Post
    But when do you actually swap out the line? Before flushing? After?
    You have to bleed the brakes after you disconnect the line in order to fill up the new piece of line and get all the air bubbles out.
    All you do is disconnect the old line and replace with the new one. Make sure you remove the spring plate holding the connection in place before you actually undo the line or you'll end up with brake fluid everywhere, you'll know what I mean if you take a look at the junction between the soft line and the hard line).

    Step by step:
    1. Soak both ends of line with WD40
    2. Loosen both ends a 1/4 turn or so (just to make sure you can undo them)
    3. Remove spring plate from soft/hard line junction
    4. Undo hard/soft line connection
    5. Remove line from caliper
    6. Install new line on caliper and fully tighten
    7. Connect new line to hard line (make sure you route it correctly)
    8. Install new spring plate
    9. Tighten all connections (best to double check)
    10. Repeat for each corner
    11. Bleed brakes (DF, PR, DR, PF for ABS cars) and check for leaks
    [D = drivers side, P = passenger side]

    I think you can bleed the lines as you go if you replace the lines following the bleeding sequence. I had all 4 wheels off, so I did it once I was finished so that I didn't have to keep asking someone to come and help me.
    Last edited by Heywood; 04-29-2008 at 05:36 PM. Reason: Because I felt like it.
    00 Silver Frost SVTC #1429/2150: Born 10 Jan, 2000
    3.0L, Spec Stage 3 Clutch, LSD, Koni Sport Kit +more

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