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Code 1383..... Help!

texan01

CEG'er
Joined
Jan 29, 2008
Messages
36
Location
Dallas, TX
So my smoot running 00 'Tour decides to see if it can be any slower than an old VW Beetle, and manages to suceed throwing an 1383 code.

I take the valve cover off and inspect the timing belt, the engine is still in time according to the all the timing marks I see (flat plate in the back of the cam lines up like it supposed to). I put a wrench on the cam and rotate it and it does rotate but is it supposed to spring back or does it stay put? It was tossing a 1380, now it's just tossing a 1383. my scantool says that it's running 27 degrees retard on the exhaust cam.

This is my first car with a timing belt/DOHC setup, I'm used to pushrods and a single cam to run the whole thing.

Thanks!
 
Check the plug that goes to the VCT solenoid. Usually when you see the 1380 code, thats what it is. Make sure it is plugged in good and make sure none of the wires are naked and touching.
 
Check the plug that goes to the VCT solenoid. Usually when you see the 1380 code, thats what it is. Make sure it is plugged in good and make sure none of the wires are naked and touching.

Agreed. Also, RUN the car with the timing belt cover off (this is not harmful in any way), that way you can check the ENTIRETY of the belt, just to make sure that it is OK.
 
Best of my knowlege the VCT system is working like it should. I'm not getting the 1380 code anymore just the 1383 code.

I'm wondering if the exhaust cam sprocket has failed. I haven't torn it down to remove the timing belt, but I have examined the belt and it appears to be good no teeth missing or cracks in it, though with 85k on the clock, wouldn't hurt to replace it.

It will start and run just as smooth as it always does, just has no power anymore, but if you keep on it, it will go all the way to the rev-limiter in each gear (automatic and no tach :-(

SCantool says timing is ~25 degrees retarded for the exhaust cam. it does vary some between 27 and 24 retarded.
 
Code P1383 indicates the cam is too far retarded during its “at-rest” position. This usually means your timing is off. I would not trust the timing marks. I would still check that plug for the VCT to make sure it is plugged in good since you got the 1380 code first. If that is good, might be time for a new belt. Replace the idlers and tensioner and water pump while doing it. By the Ford timing kit that includes the cam bar and crank pin tools to help you get the timing right. Here is a link that explains those codes http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/july2002/techtips.htm
 
Here's another wrinkle in the plot. When I put my scantool on the computer and clear the codes out, it will run normally for a few minutes till the code comes back. Cam Error goes back to 0 from -27 and VCT solenoid duty cycle goes back to around 40% which is what it was doing before this happened.

Unless VCT duty cycle needs to be closer to 0?

Or has the crank jumped time? The cams are phased properly.

Sorry battling a nasty chest cold so I'm not running 100% myself.
 
Ok so I felt well enough to go out and play with the car. Took the inspection cover loose and cranked the engine over a few times and saw where the timing belt lost some teeth, also found out it's the original belt. This will be a next weekend project when I feel better, I'll drive the Explorer which will hurt when I fill it up ($70 last time I filled it up) I've gotten spoiled on the Contour and it's $30 a tank and vastly superior road manners.

So to those who said it was the belt, you are correct! I thank you for your patience while I get schooled on DOHC/VCT.

It appears there are enough teeth missing to allow the crankshaft to slip some which would explain why both cams are still in time with each other.

I'm used to OHV designs where you just line up the dots with the chain and sprockets and you're set and your forget about it.
 
Toldya to check the entire belt ;)

Haha just messin' with ya. I recommend the Gates timing belt kit if you plan on tackling this yourself, unless you only purchase OEM parts. But if you want the Gates kit you can find it on RockAuto. :cool:
 
Don't forget the Ford Timing kit, costs about $20. Well worth the money to make sure you get it right. Kit includes the cam alignment tool and crank pin. With the VCT it is very important to get the timing right or you will get the 1381 or 1383 code. Remember to leave your cam gears loose while setting tension.
 
I got mine running again today (well it was running before but getting terrible gas mileage and no power) with a new timing belt and pulleys. I followed the directions Dec1000 gave earlier in another post (yes I do search!) But I did not use the Ford tools. I've been around motors long enough to have other tools at my disposal/creativity. The belt was missing about a dozen teeth and the idler/tensioner pullies weren't too hot, also looks like the belt was working on polishing the aluminum motor mount bracket which probably ripped off the teeth.

I did not replace the water pump as I was not fond of the replacement pumps plastic impeller. It's not that difficult to get to anyway.

I took my time and it was relatively easy. Much better than say a GM Quad 4 or my friends 00 Civic. So no more codes, scantool shows everything to be good and the VCT system works like it should.

Thanks for all your inputs!
 
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