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Thread: another quick question

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default another quick question

    what all special tools will I need to get this motor out. I have all the normal tools just need to know if there are some special ones needed to pull the motor
    STOCK HP IS NEVER ENOUGH

  2. #2

    Default

    Besides a hoist. Nothing out of the norm for a normal tool setup.

    Air tools, gear wrenches, pry bars, extensions, et cetera are a must in my book but then again they also fall under normal tools when talking about a job like this.

    Oh yeah. Fuel line disconnect tool.
    2000 SVT #674
    13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
    2005 Magnum R/T
    2 Ton Tank with a Hemi

  3. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DemonSVT View Post

    Oh yeah. Fuel line disconnect tool.

    cheap as $2
    98.5 T Red SVT #4636/6535 ... SVT cam'd 3L Turbo

    Owned 28 SVT's, looking for my 29th. Need SVT Parts? PM me!

    PM me for engine/trans/suspension swaps, etc... 3 Liter Swaps done RIGHT!

  4. #4
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    Default

    Static, don't buy them unless you want a set to have around the garage. I have the full set. Give me a shout or a PM! I'll hook you up mang!!!!!!!!!!
    Mazda North America Sales (K.C. Mo.)
    Buy Mazdas From me!!! Think: MazdaSpeed
    E0 3l--13's **Parting Out**
    2000 SEVT-- The Pretty Car (Work in further Progress)

  5. #5
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    Default

    I used just normal tools. I used a large bar to move the lower arm down so I could pop the ball joint out...but thats about it. I also bought a fuel line d/c tool but didn't use it. I just removed the two little bolts where the line connects to the fuel rail. Just remember to depressurize the line and use a cloth or rag around the line when you remove it. I didn't (because I'm foolish) and when i pulled it out a little gas flew up and got in my eye. Good thing I had a buddy right next to the hose...
    2000 Contour SVT
    SF - #542 of 2150

    3L: SVT Cams/LIM/UIM/Optimized TB/MAF
    HMS Trans: Torsen/SS Forks/Synchros/Zetec FD
    Mods: K&N/MSDS Headers/Trubendz Y & Catback/DMD/Steeda Short Throw
    Tuning: Xcal2 with PRP
    Susp: Bat Euro Kit

  6. #6
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    Default

    already got the disconnect. I am going to shoot myself if i dont figure out how to get the axle nut off the pass side. the clip that holds all the nuts together is broke so I cant get a grip on it. I am thinking about putting JBweld on the back side of the other nuts and the screwing them back on
    STOCK HP IS NEVER ENOUGH

  7. #7

    Default

    Pull the axles connected to the suspension. Why waste time taking each separate piece apart? You can drop the entire suspension in 30 minutes tops.

    Also the axle nut puts preload on the wheel bearing. If you are not carefull you can cause premature bearing failure.
    2000 SVT #674
    13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
    2005 Magnum R/T
    2 Ton Tank with a Hemi

  8. #8
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    Default

    I am replacing the wheel bearings and LBJ before the swap is done. Stupid not to. I dont want to have to take it all apart again.
    STOCK HP IS NEVER ENOUGH

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Static View Post
    I am replacing the wheel bearings and LBJ before the swap is done. Stupid not to. I dont want to have to take it all apart again.
    I don't know about that. If the bearings are not having issues then you may just be creating issues for yourself.

    If you took a poll of how many times people who have changed their bearings have had to do it AGAIN since it was done, you would probably see that number be quite high.
    The point being messing with the bearings when they don't need it could mean you will be taking it back apart later.

    Personally I advocate just buying a whole new hub assembly if they can be found cheap enough.
    My project website
    MazdaSpeed3...Cosmic Blue Mica
    I am no longer part of Nautilus Performance Group.

  10. #10

    Default

    And they can:

    Steve at Tousley ford has them for 15x.xx and a like.. 6 bucks for shipping.
    Doesn't Stazi offer them, at times, too?
    .99 Silverfrost
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