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Underdrive pulley: What length do I need?

PurpleMystique

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Nov 16, 2004
Messages
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Greater Des Moines Area
I decided only to install the power steering pump pulley on my 3.0. The belt I originally got for both the power steering and alternator pulleys is 1.8m (about 70 7/8"), but I don't know what length to use with the UD pulley, or if I'll even need a new belt since I'm only using one pulley. Any suggestions.
 
Any tips on installation? I borrowed a breaker bar from Advance Auto, but the engine mount is in the way due to the orientation of the 3/8 square on the bar. Do I need to jack up the car, support the engine, and remove the mount to get the tensioner off?
 
Any tips on installation? I borrowed a breaker bar from Advance Auto, but the engine mount is in the way due to the orientation of the 3/8 square on the bar. Do I need to jack up the car, support the engine, and remove the mount to get the tensioner off?

Nope just put on the bar and pull back on it. The tensioner will move allowing the belt to slip off.

PS replacement can be tackled 2 ways.

Removal of the engine mount to replace the ps pulley.

Or shave down the shaft on the ps pole with a dremel. Took me 10 mins and then the ps pulley wiggled off. Saved me alot of wrenching:cool:
 
Nope just put on the bar and pull back on it. The tensioner will move allowing the belt to slip off.

PS replacement can be tackled 2 ways.

Removal of the engine mount to replace the ps pulley.

Or shave down the shaft on the ps pole with a dremel. Took me 10 mins and then the ps pulley wiggled off. Saved me alot of wrenching:cool:

I'm not sure if I understand this. When I slip the breaker bar in the tensioner, the amount that I can relieve the tension is limited by the bar hitting the engine mount. Would it help to go at it from underneath?
 
I'll be doing this soon as well, just went to Autozone to grab the Goodyear belt tonight...

Thinking about doing it this weekend but its still pretty chilly outside and I just gave my buddy his salamander back so I no longer have heat...

That grinding trick may save me a lot of work too. I'll keep that in mind! Thanks!
 
I'm not sure if I understand this. When I slip the breaker bar in the tensioner, the amount that I can relieve the tension is limited by the bar hitting the engine mount. Would it help to go at it from underneath?

You are gonna have to adjust the nut on the breaker bar given to you. If they are remove able, remove and reposition it and then try to apply the bar again into the tensioner. See i used my 3/8 drive ratchet along with a steel pipe over it = breaker bar. It allowed me to use the ratchet to give me just enough space to pull forward the tensioner removing the belt. I know the motor mount is in the way. But you are gonna have to work around it the best way you can. OR just remove the engine mount :shrug:


After i got enough loot i actually bought a real breaker bar.
 
I'll be doing this soon as well, just went to Autozone to grab the Goodyear belt tonight...

Thinking about doing it this weekend but its still pretty chilly outside and I just gave my buddy his salamander back so I no longer have heat...

That grinding trick may save me a lot of work too. I'll keep that in mind! Thanks!

Yeah if you have a dremel just buy a good bit. It is metal and kinda looks like a cylinder style with edges that curve, cost me 5.99. It will cut that post down easily. It took me 10 mins and saved me tons of time/work:cool:
 
release the tension with the breaket bar from under the car ... all you need is a 3/8 breaker bar


as for getting to the power steering pulley, just remove the mount, but either loosen the bolts with the belt still on or you can use a small extension to hold the pulley with the belt off
 
release the tension with the breaket bar from under the car ... all you need is a 3/8 breaker bar


as for getting to the power steering pulley, just remove the mount, but either loosen the bolts with the belt still on or you can use a small extension to hold the pulley with the belt off

Use a jack underneath the engine on the left side when removing the mount. That way the engine can rest on something while you do this pulley swap.
 
Well, I tried both methods tonight with no success.

I tried grinding down the pulley shaft, but it was taking forever and getting dust and sparks all over my engine bay...no good. So I supported the engine and removed the engine mount bolts, only to realize that I would need a 1/2" extension to get to the lower bolts (and possibly remove the coolant reservoir?) and I don't have one, my car was torn apart, and my neighbor's cell phone was off. I finally managed to get everything put back together, but it looks like I'm going to dyno without the pulley tomorrow. :(
 
yes the one motor mount bolt is under the coolant tank .... not hard to raise and move out of the way without draining the coolant.

don't forget that you need to grind down the ps line mount for some extra clearence.

also your not going to see a hugh difference in the dyno without it ...
 
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