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stalling when cold and bogging down

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devanmc

Guest
i have a 99 atx with about 120xxx miles. i have one code for the cam shaft possition sensor. When the car is cold(first 5min-10min in winter). i first start driving and when i let off the throttle, by either letting off or putting it into neutral(i put it in neutral as i have 2 bad motor mounts and hate the shaking when stoped). the rpms drop and the engine bogs down and 1-4 times a day it will stall. It also bogs down but doesnt die if i rev in neutral(in park or neutral, stopped). once it is warm it goes away. The bogging down never goes away but gets better. the engine stops stalling once it warms up.


another thing, is that sometimes(about half of the time). after accelerating hard then fully letting off the gas. the rpms will start to drop then hang at about 2,000. Also, i have a large amount of carbon build up in my exhuast pipes(looked at my dads s-10 and tarues, which compared to me have less then half as much). any ideas about this stuff?

the maintinance i have done to the car in the past 8months is:
new fuel filter, a few bottles of injector cleaner and such. seafoam in the crankcase(then oil change) and seafoam threw the intake, new spark plugs(bouch +2), new alternator, new serp belt. new battery, cooling system flush, i just changed to valvoline synth blend high millage motor oil(but the problem was around befor this)... thats all i can remember right now

(i have installed a tach, that is how i know my rpms)
 
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any CEL's? The bogging almost sounds like a fuel issue. i havent heard of too many zetecs having problems with the fuel pumps like the SVTs but it may be something to look into. also i would look at replacing the plugs and wires. get a set of autolite double plat's. the extra ground strap(s) on the bosch +2 and +4 dont do anything. your still only going to get one spark, and they are much harder to gap properly. also get your motor mounts fixed.

do those things and then go from there.
 
any CEL's? The bogging almost sounds like a fuel issue. i havent heard of too many zetecs having problems with the fuel pumps like the SVTs but it may be something to look into. also i would look at replacing the plugs and wires. get a set of autolite double plat's. the extra ground strap(s) on the bosch +2 and +4 dont do anything. your still only going to get one spark, and they are much harder to gap properly. also get your motor mounts fixed.

do those things and then go from there.

i have a CEL but it is for the cam shaft possition sensor. i have spliced in a new plug to fix that but i need to soder it in for it to work correctly.

i bought a spark plug gapper when i got them and i couldnt gap them at all maybe thats the problem :blackeye: .

Ill look at getting new plugs and wires once i pay my ticket(ggrrrrr) and how will i go about checking my fuel pump and fuel system?
 
Not sure my dad bought the car with the code. when checking the harness someone had put a wire tap on it at one point. Which is most likely what shorted out the ground wrie to the sensor. which is the problem i am trying to correct with that. So with all that said i dont belive so.
 
Throttle Position Sensor

Throttle Position Sensor

not sure if this will help but I've had the same problem in the pastwith my zetec and I talked to my brother who was at the time going to school for ASE certification. He said it sounded like the throttle position sensor getting gummed up and not allowing the throttle to function properly at cold tempratures maybe somebody else has heard of this before and can shed some more light on the subject
 
that would be nice and does sound interesting. im goin to replace my spark plus and wires and go from their.
 
like follow the cam plug all the way back to it connection to the main harness. i replaced all that cuz of a short in the original wiring.
 
I don't know if this applies since your cam position sensor wiring was bad, but I had similar problems before my timing broke.

The belt must have skipped some gear teeth. So, it was running pretty bad. There was no power and it was running pretty rough. I was also getting the cam position sensor CEL, which could be explained by the belt skipping. Then one winter day I went to start it and it wouldn't start. I could tell it didn't sound like it normally did when starting up. So, I had someone turn the key while I pryed back the cam gear cover enough to see the belt. Sure enough the engine was turning over but the belt wasn't moving. The crank gear had eaten some of the teeth off the timing belt and was just spinning without moving the belt.
 
my belt looks perfectly fine and with the half way fix to my cam sensor, the engine runs correctly half the time.
 
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