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Clutch pedal - meet floor board

bohdi

CEG'er
Joined
Sep 1, 2003
Messages
47
Location
dallas
My clutch pedal has no pressure and therefore isn't disengaging the clutch; this happened while driving. It does return to the top position.

Car has 157k miles and as far as I know, all the clutch components are original.

I had the same thing happen in my old Formula - no pedal pressure; it turns out a big chunk of the clutch disc had broken off. That car had more than twice the hp of this one and an aftermarket clutch, so I'm gonna guess that isn't the case here.

I'm not sure where to start here. How do I determine if it's only a problem with the master?

Keep in mind that my goal here is to get this thing back on the road for as cheap as possible since I'm selling the car after the holidays.

**UPDATED**

Found the culprit:

DSC04298.jpg


It's the rubber portion of the clutch fluid line between the master cylinder and the transmission. One problem, I'm not sure how to get it off.

Here is the other end for reference:

DSC04301.jpg
 
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You may have a leak in the brake lines. Check the brake fluid and see if it is low.
 
You may have a leak in the brake lines. Check the brake fluid and see if it is low.

If there were a large enough leak to effect the clutch, would it also have effected braking performance?

Master cylinder shot?

How would I determine this? Would it be leaking air? Fluid?

Hopefully I'll be able to get into it later tonight when I get home. Just some early Q's...
 
Okay...just got in. Pushed the car in the garage.

Brake fluid is low. Spot on the driveway confirms a leak. Now, to find it. Any tips on isolating it?
 
Not to be picky, but the clutch has it's own master cylinder, so following the brake lines from the brake master cylinder wouldn't help much. :cool:

I had one blow out recently in a Some-Bishy and the fluid (from the clutch master) leaked into the interior. Check the carpet behind and above the clutch pedal.
 
It turns into a hardline up on the top portion. It is secured at both ends by clips. You need a small pick to pry up on the one that goes in the slave/TOB. Another clip very similar secures the line up underneath by the firewall. Never had to remove one but it looks pretty tight up there. If you're going to work on your car you might want to get a Ford Service CD from me. Plus you owe me for looking this all up for you. :D
standard.jpg


orig.jpg
 
Heh...shameless plug eh? Thanks for that. I'd buy a manual but this car is going away after the holidays.

FYI - for anyone looking for that line - it's probably an easier venture to go after the holy :censored::censored::censored::censored:ing grail. Not even the almighty Billy J could get it to me by this weekend.
 
Okay. Got the part in. The part number on the invoice is 97BZ-7A512-AD. It is the above pictured rubber tube with metal tubing on each end. It comes as one piece.

Swap took about 10 minutes. My mother in law has our dig. camera right now, so no pics...sorry.

If you reference the manual pic above, #10 is a small metal clip. There is one at the master cylinder on the firewall and one at the slave connection on top of the trans. I used a micro flathead to pry them out. SAVE THEM! The new tube only came with one, so you will need to re-use one old clip. Saving both old clips gives you a handy backup if/when you drop one. They are very small and hard to find in the engine bay.

The tube has to be manuevered a little to get it into place, but it's not bad. After that, each end slides right in/on. Stick the clips in place and you're set.

Now to go get some brake fluid and bleeding kit.
 
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