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1996 contour problems

bedinabox

New CEG'er
Joined
Oct 12, 2007
Messages
10
I just received a 1996 ford contour GL with 150000 miles for the great price of free. The interior is clean, and so is the exterior, but the engine is giving me troubles. Here is alist....

The car over heats on some trips, but others stays within normal temp....Plan on replacing the water pump and goinv fmro there.

when taking off the car feels like its going to die, or it is stailling and jerking and all sorts of things. There is a CEL on, I have noticed when I floor it, and the car down****s it will be fine as long as I am moving. Sometimes the battery light flashes too.

Bringing it home it ran great, but when I stopped at the stop light, it was idling fine. Than on take of it wouldnt go, and was just supttering and bafckfiring, and the car started to overheat once again. Here is a list of things I plan on doing, Any ideas?


alternator?
water pump
spark plugs
air filter
fuel filter
radiator flush
clean MAF
change oil
spark plug wires


When I floor it it downshifts and the RPMs get really high and quickly shifts up,,,and belts squeel and there is chaos.
 
Get the code read and post it here. its better to spend a little extra time troubleshooting and solving the problem the first time then just throwing parts at and hoping its fixed.

Also because of the down shifting im assuming its an automatic and because its a 96 GL im assuming its a 4cyl zetec. its helpful to post that info due to different engine and trans configurations have different common problems.
 
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If your in the NWNJ area ill scan it for you. I am having a stalling/kind of a choking problem with my car when it first starts up, but I didnt get any codes yet.
 
On the pre98 Zetec ford put a Coolant Temperature sensor that was too sensitive. It would run the temperature gauge all the way up to the "L" in normal before engauging the cooling fans, however if you are moving constantly the gauge will stay down right in the middle until you come to a red light, where it will rocket right back up to the "L" on NORMAL. This is entirely normal, its just a sensor that is overly sensative, you need to worry when it starts to go past the "L" and onto the red, if it does that car needs to turn off immediately.

Flickering battery light indicates a bad alternator or battery. if your car still starts up and whatnot, im putting my money on the alternator. A low charge on your battery will cause all sorts of issues, including bucking, hesitations and misfireing.

since you just got the car, I would suggest also a tune up. Get some new Autolite/motorcraft spark plugs and new spark plug wires, this along with a new alternator should solve your issues.
 
Check battery wiring as well. A really bad battery can cause bad running as well, and so can the alternator. If you have the car idling, see if the voltage is 13.8-14.4 range, with a voltmeter (cheap at Radio Shack, Advance Auto,etc.) If it is, alternator likely OK.
 
As you guys have already figured out.....It is a 4 cyl. auto. Thanks for your help. Ill get a volotmeter tomorrow. Any leads on the bad shifts? Is that caused by the back alt. or battery? And to recap...the temp. is no big deal unless it gets really hot? I noticed when the car was idling and the temp was at the "L" But the fans were not on. Sorry if this does not make sense, I am very tired.


Another problem, you guys are all very helpful. so.....what does the "CEL" indicate. Meaning what parts would throw it? Ill start by testing the battery. Thanks guys.


Kevin
 
there are literally hundreds of things that could turn on the CEL. thats why we need the code(s) to help narrow it down.
 
PO113---- Intake air tempature (AIT) sensor circuit high input

Thats the code guys....any ideas what that means?
 
similar

similar

When these episodes happen do you notice any dimming of the lights. I had to replace an alternator and when the batter was just low enough it would create havoc with the on board computer, along with showing CEL and downshifting.

Gonzo
 
When these episodes happen do you notice any dimming of the lights. I had to replace an alternator and when the batter was just low enough it would create havoc with the on board computer, along with showing CEL and downshifting.

Gonzo


Nope no dimming. I just went ahead and ordered the new part. Could it be the fuel pump? Because it idles and cruises just fine, its just under a load, or accelerating that it sputters and dies.
 
An update....

I changed the sensor, and got the battery tested. Now, when taking off, if I dont give the car much gas, it does not have a problem, but it still stalls and coughs and sputters when flooring it. It still goes, it just does not go very well. What is the next step to take? Check the alternator? The battery light still remains on even though i have tested the battery.

Man cars are frusterating.
 
An update....

I changed the sensor, and got the battery tested. Now, when taking off, if I dont give the car much gas, it does not have a problem, but it still stalls and coughs and sputters when flooring it. It still goes, it just does not go very well. What is the next step to take? Check the alternator? The battery light still remains on even though i have tested the battery.

Man cars are frusterating.

Clean the IAC is what I would say, and new plugs.
 
An update....

I changed the sensor, and got the battery tested. Now, when taking off, if I dont give the car much gas, it does not have a problem, but it still stalls and coughs and sputters when flooring it. It still goes, it just does not go very well. What is the next step to take? Check the alternator? The battery light still remains on even though i have tested the battery.

Man cars are frusterating.

Your plugs and/or wires are shot. period.
 
Maybe the moderators will activate me by now.

Fuel filter is another cheap, often necessary part on a 'free' car. Beware the free car - it rarely is in the long run.
 
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