I have been having a issue with the way my car idles, I used to think this was just to a heavier flywheel on the car, but now im starting to suspect something different, usualy when you start the car from a cold start it will idle high then come down a little bit, this will not. I got stuck in a traffic jam today on the highway, and the idle would not come down below about 1500 rpm, the only way I could get it to go down would be to let the clutch out a little bit, which would bring the idle down to normal, but as soon as I rev the motor back up it will go back to its odd idle. What should I look for?
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idling issue
- Thread starter AliasJerk
- Start date
zorrex
Enjoys the Abuse
Hmm. Seeing as I figure you've already messed with all the sensors (MAF, IAC, etc.), let's try with idiot idea number 1. Inspect your throttle cable :shrug:. It's just a thought! After doing a little work on my car, we forgot to place the cable appropriately across the engine bay in it's proper routing and clips and it somehow was getting caught up and holding my engine at around 2k rpms :shocked:. It was pretty much cruise control.
striker2
Official CEG Vendor
clean/replace the IAC. also check for vacuum leaks. it sounds like if there was one it would be really small.
mcgarvey
Veteran CEG'er
An ignition problem will also cause similar symptoms. I had a car with an unstable idle when warm- varied between 500 and 1500 rpms. Turned out to be just a bad spark plug wire.
Also check PCV valve, and certainly, the Idle Air Control.
Also check PCV valve, and certainly, the Idle Air Control.
hectik1
The Hispanic Hellion
TPS.....the symptoms listed sounded like my car with a bad TPS.:shrug:
zorrex
Enjoys the Abuse
Not to sound like I know everything, but this is why I was leaning to that throttle cable. However, I figure he's already gotten around to testing all these sensors, so I went with the hardware, not the software
.jamesmason1
CEG'er
Not to sound like I know everything, but this is why I was leaning to that throttle cable. However, I figure he's already gotten around to testing all these sensors, so I went with the hardware, not the software
This happened to me as well (throttle cable problem). I had moved it to pull my valve cover off and forgot to put it back. if you haven't moved it try spraying a little silicon grease into the cruise and throttle cable housing where the cables come out to attach to the t/b. mine was sticking a little after idle and would stop only after a long drive. this made it to where my car would idle at 2k almost all the time. speaking of the throttle cable my wife went out to check on my ar and take it around the block and it wouldn't turn over. it turns out someone diked my throttle and cruise cable clean off, so I have to get that fixed when I get home. This doesn't suprise me due to the fact that my neighbor at my last house was a drug dealer and was harrassing my wife after I left and my wife had him thrown in jail.
hectik1
The Hispanic Hellion
Can't really test a TPS....trust me... I did a lot of testing/messing around with TPS when I tried the 65mm Focus Central TB on my car.:crazy:
striker2
Official CEG Vendor
you can test a TPS with either an o-scope or an analog volt/ohm meter.
hectik1
The Hispanic Hellion
I understand that...but I have had some TPS do some weird things....with or without a CEL.:laugh:
wasnt the throttle cable...
It turned out that my alternator was failing, and somehow to compromise the engine idle was being bumped to increase the charge from my alternator. The alternator died the other night, replaced it, no more idle issues, but if I get some I will check into other options.
It turned out that my alternator was failing, and somehow to compromise the engine idle was being bumped to increase the charge from my alternator. The alternator died the other night, replaced it, no more idle issues, but if I get some I will check into other options.
zorrex
Enjoys the Abuse
Well that's odd, but I guess it makes sense :shrug: . I guess next time someone mentions an idling issue I'll think of you :crazy: .