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Thread: Spec Stage 3+. Is that too much????

  1. Default Spec Stage 3+. Is that too much????

    Hey ya'll. I just got my spec stage 3+ clutch in for my 2000 CSVT w/a factory rebuilt motor (w/no mods yet) and was wondering (before i have it installed) is it too much for this car. I need it to be good for daily driving. Also let me know your thoughts on how it feels in your car if you have it. So if you guys have this clutch or a spec clutch similar, please respond ASAP. Thanks

  2. #2

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    mine has never failed me yet, and i have a pretty much bone stock 2.5.....but thats alot of cash to spend unless you are thinking of lots more power.
    99' silver smokin' csvt
    born on march 18 99' #1491 of 2760

    Quote:The Digital Slacker
    What do you say to a CSVT that has black hightowers?
    Nothing, you already told it twice!

  3. #3
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    Why do people buy parts and then ask. I'll never understand.
    "Fixing and modifying Tours since '98"
    '98 SVT #1,173. Need a 95-00 Ford CD manual? PM me

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    Quote Originally Posted by detroitsvt View Post
    Hey ya'll. I just got my spec stage 3+ clutch in for my 2000 CSVT w/a factory rebuilt motor (w/no mods yet) and was wondering (before i have it installed) is it too much for this car. I need it to be good for daily driving. Also let me know your thoughts on how it feels in your car if you have it. So if you guys have this clutch or a spec clutch similar, please respond ASAP. Thanks
    Im assuming the 3+ is the 4 puck instead of the 6 puck.

    is it overkill? For a stock motor, absolutely imho.

    Is it the driveability your looking for? Probably not. The clutch is either engaged or its not. You cant slip it like the stock clutch.

    Unless your going with a boosted application, get the stage 1. Stage 1 will handle more than you can even throw at it as well as give an OEM engagement.

    Im speaking owning a boosted contour with a Spec Stage 3. Ive driven Contours with a stage 1 so I know both sides of the coin. Unless I was doing some HEAVY mods, I would choose a stage 1 anyday.
    Jim Hahn
    1999 Tropic Green SVT Contour
    1996 T-Red Contour SE Reborn 4/6/04 Sold
    3.0L swap and Arizona Dyno Chip Turbo Kit
    364 whp, 410 wtq @ 4,700 rpm

  5. Default

    Thanks for the response beyond. Actually the clutch disk is full face. I think everyone is getting confused thinking that the clutch is set up the way you were thinking. now knowing that would do you think?

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    Quote Originally Posted by detroitsvt View Post
    Thanks for the response beyond. Actually the clutch disk is full face. I think everyone is getting confused thinking that the clutch is set up the way you were thinking. now knowing that would do you think?
    You sure its a stage 3? I was under the impression that Stage 3's were either 4 or 6 puck.
    Jim Hahn
    1999 Tropic Green SVT Contour
    1996 T-Red Contour SE Reborn 4/6/04 Sold
    3.0L swap and Arizona Dyno Chip Turbo Kit
    364 whp, 410 wtq @ 4,700 rpm

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by beyondloadedSE View Post
    You sure its a stage 3? I was under the impression that Stage 3's were either 4 or 6 puck.

    Stage 3 +, thats what i have. Its a full face disc. Engagement is rough. I wouldn't recommend it for everyday driving but it doesn't slip

    Even though its not what you want to hear, i would say its not the clutch for you. You can try it but like i said, daily driving would be annoying.

    From the spec site, The stage 3+ is supposed to be a better stage 3 in aspects of daily driving, torque capacity, and life expectancy. That's why i bought it.
    00 SVT Silver Frost/Midnight Blue #1321/2150
    99 Cougar V6 5spd Spruce green - SVT powered!
    03 F150 4.2L 5spd Supercab Black
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    If I remember right the plus is for the lightweight option. I could be wrong though. It's been awhile since I perused their site. I am running the Spec Stage 3 cerametallic. It is a 6 puck face. The clutch pedal is real close to OEM, however there is no slipping the clutch as mentioned before. This makes it a little harder to keep from wheel-hopping the car, but once engaged it'll pullout tree stumps. On a side note, I have broken rear motor mounts from popping this clutch out too hard. Hope this gives you some insight. Some one correct me if I'm wrong on the "Plus" option.

    Edit: Ok someone beat me to it. The plus option is a full face disc. Though I don't have drivability issues at all with the 6 puck design. I wonder why that is if the "plus" is supposed to be better for daily driving?
    Mazda North America Sales (K.C. Mo.)
    Buy Mazdas From me!!! Think: MazdaSpeed
    E0 3l--13's **Parting Out**
    2000 SEVT-- The Pretty Car (Work in further Progress)

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pale Horse View Post
    Edit: Ok someone beat me to it. The plus option is a full face disc. Though I don't have drivability issues at all with the 6 puck design. I wonder why that is if the "plus" is supposed to be better for daily driving?
    maybe it engages smoother being full disc. I don't know i've never drove/ridden in any spec 3 6 puck contours. But it is the craziest looking disc ever. I should throw up a pic. For that much money it should be made of platinum
    00 SVT Silver Frost/Midnight Blue #1321/2150
    99 Cougar V6 5spd Spruce green - SVT powered!
    03 F150 4.2L 5spd Supercab Black
    I guess I have a thing for V6's with manual transmissions?
    www.shineyphotos.com

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    common knowledge is that a full face disk has significantly less "chatter" on engagement. what i notice with my stage3 is that it chatters or engages rough only when i milk the clutch. if i drive it like i usually do (dump the clutch, but at real low rpms. dont jerk the car, just barely enough gas to make it engage. let it start rolling till it gets to around 1000 rpms then hit the gas (daily driving)

    when i race it feather it just enough to load up the axles and then dump the clutch. so it'll move about 2-6 inches then the weight will transfer. if i try to launch at a high rpm it does wheel hop. with nitrous it will wheel hop after i shift into second, also. which puts me toward any direction but straight.

    so my opinion, use the 3+. it'll last a little longer (assuming you know how to drive well) and launch good. the only downside is it'll weight more than a stage3. good luck!

    (oh and the biggest issue with daily driving is if the hub is sprung or not. if its a solid disk with no springs, you may want to reconsider. the solid hubs are a terror on stock motor mounts, stock diffs, and stock axles.
    98 CSVT-black. on it's second 3L swap. 219hp/211 trq

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