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Cyl. 1 & 2 drowning in oil!

I

IRingTwyce

I ROCK at bumper cars!
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Got the wiring harness sorted out (pretty sure anyway). Still wouldn't start, so I figured I'd go ahead and change the plugs. Pulled the first two, only to find them completely covered and dripping with oil, all the way up the threads. Cyls. 3 & 4 were nice and dry. Shining a light down into 1 & 2, I can see the oil pooled in the cylinder.

A little searching on the old site indicates this is probably just a failed valve cover gasket. This thread suggests a new gasket and "plug bore seals (like o-rings)." I have never heard of plug bore seals.

Has anyone else had this problem? How is the best way to get the oil OUT of the two cylinders once I've gone to put on the new gasket? Should I try sticking a rag or paper towel down the plug hole and soak up what I can? Any suggestions here would be greatly appreciated!
 
oil IN the cylinder isn't usually the valve cover gasket.. oil AROUND (on top of the plugs) is usually a sign of VCG. But, they might have been covered in oil and when you took them out seeped down into the cylinders.
 
The oil should not be a problem. There is likely not enough oil in your cylinders to cause any damage. Be sure to clean up the spark plug boots, they'll likely have some oil on them too. Spray some carb cleaner in there & let 'em dry.

VCG replacement is fairly easy & straightforward. Hardest part is taking that damn timing belt cover off, but you may not need to bother as you should be able to just loosen the timing belt cover bolts & remove the valve cover.
 
I got the cover off yesterday. The upper timing cover came off without a problem. Just two hex-head screws. Valve cover came off in about 60 seconds. I could see the spot where the oil was leaking through. I'm going to do a thorough cleaning of the head and VC. The old gasket left quite a bit of crusty crap, especially on the VC guides. I figure while it is off the car, I'll give a quick sandblast and paint it too. Why the hell not? I'll post pics of the final result. I should finish it up this weekend.
 
Sandblasted Valve Cover

Sandblasted Valve Cover

I took an hour or so and sandblasted the valve cover. Next I'll do a little cleaning up of some rough edges, then paint, clear, and install the new gasket. Since the car's color theme is going to be blue, white, and safety yellow, I'll probably paint the cover anodized blue, with yellow and white accents & bolt heads.

Before sandblasting:


After sandblasting:



More pics as work progresses.
 
Valve Cover Painted

Valve Cover Painted

OK...Got the cover painted. It still needs some touch-up. I don't know yet if I'm going to keep the two yellow lines on it. They didn't turn out quite like I wanted them to, and for some reason as I was painting the text and stuff, my hand was shaking like a palsy victim's! I really wanted them to be narrower. The Ford emblem will need some touch-up, as the white ran a little on me. I also tossed it on the engine for a quick in-place shot. I really like how it looks. I'll probably be painting the upper timing cover yellow or white. Most likely yellow.


 
I went to Autozone and picked up some high-temp paint and primer. Just sprayed, let it dry, then baked it in the oven for 4 hours at about 150°. Then I hand lettered the raised portions. I've not done much hand painting in this fashion. My dad is the old-school sign man. I mainly stick to vinyl. If I hand-letter anything it's usually fairly large and I use the computer and plotter to lay out a pattern. So I'm using this for practice. I was surprised how much my hand was shaking. Like I had Parkinsons or something. The lettering enamel I used is just regular One-Shot sign lettering enamel. I have absolutely no idea how it will hold up heat-wise. It's entirely possible it cracks and fails and I have to do it all over again.

One interesting thing I learned at AZ while reading the paint labels: The high-temp paint I used states that it is good for INTERMITENT temps up to 500°. I then looked at some caliper paint. It said it was good for temps up to 800°!! I'll keep everyone posted on the condition of the 500° paint to see if it is necessary to use the higher temp paint.

One question from me: Does anyone know what the correct torque is for the valve cover bolts???
 
Last edited:
IRingTwyce said:
One question from me: Does anyone know what the correct torque is for the valve cover bolts???
Click to expand...

Place the valve cover into position and tighten the retaining bolts to 53-71 inch lbs. (6-8 Nm), beginning in the center of the valve cover and working outward.

I got this from my Chiltondiy.com manual.
 
I used 500 degree paint. It's still on the valve cover and heat shield after years. I didn't prep the surfaces other than hosing them off, so it's cracked a bit but not bad. With good prep, it'll stay on and look good for a good while. I don't know if there is a high temp clear coat available, but if so, that'd be even gooder.
 
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