How much roughly for ball joints (don't want to replace arm)

[m4gician]

I notice a lot of play on my steering wheel and I just had the alignment done two months ago. I had a tie-rod end replaced, and I was told I need a ball joint on the front passenger side. I notice the car moving a little off center either way I move the wheel and there's a little too much play.

Is it just hte ball joint? What am I looking at for parts and labour?

[Tony2005]

Jack up the car and push and pull on the lower control arm at the ball joint. If it is that severe that you can feel it on the steering wheel, it should be very obvious when you push/pull when it is up on jack stands. It costs about $50 for the ball joint and about $50 to $75 for labor to replace it.

[DESIGN]

It costs about $50 for the ball joint and about $50 to $75 for labor to replace it.

Actually they are 19.50 from BAT each. I don't think that there is much difference in price going to the dealer either. These are the bolt on ones.

[Damien]

Mine were $32.76 each with a lifetime warranty.

[m4gician]

Jack up the car and push and pull on the lower control arm at the ball joint. If it is that severe that you can feel it on the steering wheel, it should be very obvious when you push/pull when it is up on jack stands. It costs about $50 for the ball joint and about $50 to $75 for labor to replace it.

Tony, do you think that accounts for the major 'play' in the steering wheel? I mean holding it straight won't happen and it shakes and vibrates, is that a sign of things to come? I'm getting it checked out for sure tomorrow, but I know little to nothing in terms of this car's suspension parts and I want to make sure these guys aren't just going to take money that I so sorely need for my school...

ANyways, just in a nutshell, is that it causing the play in the wheel? Or could it be something else all together?

[TRicker]

they are 30$ after tax at any auto parts store. if you have a good set of drill bits you can jack up the front of your car (high as possible) and drill out the rivet welds, and the new balljoint just bolts on. you will need a balljoint spreader (me and CSVT#49 used 2 spreaders stacked on top of eachother and it works slick) and proper hand tools. it woudl probably be easier to just pay a shop to put them in, but that's about as expensive as the whole arm.

[Tony2005]

...

ANyways, just in a nutshell, is that it causing the play in the wheel? Or could it be something else all together?

As posted earlier, jack it up, push/pull on the ball joint. You will know right away if the ball joint is broken as it will have a lot of free play in the "cup" if broken or close to.