Who here might be interested in ........

wow I left for two days and I see there a little issue developed.

Ok Let me explain Tricker that I ordering all my products from CA do you have any idea on time frame on shipping. I am not going to buy a pallet of parts on the jig setup or first protype. I am off 21 weeks a year plus weekends on the 31 weeks on call so I am off half a year plus I work at night too. So no I don't see my bread and butter job hampering me from making the kit at the rate of demand so far.

I recieved the car this last week I already have the intercooler and piping for the kit made but I am waiting on a 2" donut pipe suppose to be here wednesday or thursday to make the tight bend for the passenger side inlet on intercooler. It requires a 2 radius bend to make the intercooler work nicely. In the pics I took here I just takced the welds I finished up all the intercooler welds and I was working on the 2 2" merge for the downpipe which is the hardest part of the kit. So I have the intercooler turbo flanges and downpipeall completed. Once I mount the downpipe to the tranny I will finish up the up-pipe in one day. Just to let you know I been keeping track of the time I spent and I recieved the intercooler friday and work on it to through Sat to get to the stage I am at now. I just walked through the door from offshore made 8k so now I can sit back and finish up the piping tomorrow.

So if you ask me I think three days tops in the manufacturing of the protype is great timing since I am fit testing and working through the best postions. The jig I can build in one day since i came up with a brillant way of making it easier than most do

I am really pleases with the ease of the kit installation so far I think everyone will love the fact that I kept it simple and easy to install. Here are some pics since I have a doubter here........

thanks burrita. nice to see progress...thats what i wanted to see in the first place, not your potential buyers jumping on my back in your defense.

harry, i walked away and the next post is a picture of me. not that it matters, but the comment "would be afraid to take a shot at you in fear of hitting a minor" or w/e y2k decided to say.

and to that..... TAKE A SHOT, I'M 22. lastly, i'm not trying to diss on anybody that is trying to go F.I., but i'd like to make a point that if you are building a car for a hobby and you are trying to make it better, spend the money and buy the good product. this would be one of them. dont try to short these guys on something they are working so hard for though. if you cant afford F.I. ..... pay the rent and buy one when you can afford it. that's all i'm trying to say as far as that topic goes.

i'm off this thread, please though. if you have a problem just PM me. if you continue to post about me here, i will refuse to leave. i think that is fair enough. dont expect me to sit here and let you guys post up pics of me and talk more smack.

The inetercooler pipe fit well?, I can see in the picture that rub a little with the radiator...
Other "stupid" questions:

What can we do with the PCV line when we will install the kit? I saw some options, like this crankcase ventilation system: www.et-performance.com
I will like to take out the oil vapors from the intake. And what happen with the other lines that go to the intake (valve covers and IVRC)? We need take the VC hoses to the air? silicon hoses can suport the turbo press if we will take it to the intake?
And the IMRC, will be it necessary, or we can eliminate it? and the EGR?
Sorry for so much questions.

The radiator fan shroud was snipped upward about three inches consisting of two lines in the same direction about 3 inches away from each other. Then the fan shroud has a curled lip on the bottom side that keeps the fan shroud off the radiator by a 1/2 inch but since I trimmed the curled spot off and cut two notches up the plastic. The plasitic's edge bent inward giving me the 1/2 inch clearance needed for the 2" piping to pass through it. The edge of aluminum you see bent slightly is just a thin plate that just is used for a frame of the intercooler. You can either snip it to it is flat where the intercooler pipe goes or just let it bend to shape which I prefer myself. This does not interfere with the air flow nor does it break or create a leak in the radiator. I will have more pics of how when I get the real kit finished. This protype is used to give me the angles and paths and from this protype the revision meaning the final one will have smooth transitions and less welds. To build a kit correctly you must have several stages to make the setup just right. I could be like ADC and just put flex pipes everywhere to allow for manufacturing mistakes and make the kit cost more since flex pipes are not cheap. But instead I will have a jig that fits every factory car.

Now when I design the installation procedures, I will make have templates and measurements so that your piping will match mine. This takes time and I want to ensure that all of you will have an easy install. I will be finsihing up the downpipe and up-pipe today if I don't run into a road block like I did Sat. when I was on the internet for hours trying to locate the tighest bend available or a solution for the inlet of the intercooler. The pcv will be plumbed back into the intake of the turbo so we can keep the measured air in the system not to astmosphere. Depending on the age or miles on your motor you may have more blowby than others and if so we can help you make a catch can. The EGR will be left wil stay on the car since you have precats or headers which all of them have now.

wow and I went look at the link you sent I would never pay that price since you can make you own using the lighning or SC thuderbird PVC if you wanted.

BurritaSVT said:

Now when I design the installation procedures

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I know I already asked this, but does that mean that there is going to be a installation guide provided with our kits. The more I see and read on this kit it seems may be a little over my head... but with directions I'd be golden.

Oh, ok, the out line from oil catch can go to the turbo "in" line, no pression to the hoses.
I have an oil catch can now between PCV and intake, but I think that it doesn´t work fine, not filter nothing. I will try to put into it a little bit of steel wool, and test it other time.

Can you save bends if you use elbow pipes and flat hoses?. For example if you change the elbow that I can see, in the picture, that go to the TB for one elbow pipe with 2 hoses... It´s only a thinking, I not be an expert ;-)

in this picture what is this pipe and what is the reason for it coming through the frame the way it does?

I would guess it'll have a downward 180* bend to go to the intercooler.

I can already see that this stage 1 kit will not work for my oiling setup. My remote oil filter is right where that pipe comes through the frame. Also, it doesn't look like my larger oil and p/s coolers will fit between the condenser and intercooler (the coolers are 2" thick). I was really looking forward to the price of this kit. Will you guys be offering a water intercooler setup with the stage2 kit?

And before someone chimes in saying the benefit of a turbo outways the oiling stuff and I should go back to stock.... I've already burned up my p/s pump auto-x'ing here in the summer (really hot here). This last summer, the cooler didn't complain at all. Also, separating the oil from the coolant by using the air-oil cooler (eliminating the SVT water-oil cooler), my coolant temps are much lower during the summers.

Thanks!

that was why i asked also, I relocated my oil filter there ... and i don't like the idea of cutting into the car like that ...

Good keep the questions coming so I can keep ya'll informed on why I did it that way.

Ok The PCV catch can will need to be plugged off at the bottom and when you change your oils pull the plug out and drain any oil and yes use a steel wool for the filter part.

I am not sure what you meant by the bend by the throttle body but remember I will revise this by tilting the pipe to a 45 degree then use an 90 degreee elbow to the throttle body then a 2.5 pipe then a reducer to fit the 2.75 throttle body. My goal is to eliminate the length of the runs to maximize spool up time and less drag or resistance.

The pipe you see going through the frame is the return air charge from the intercooler. First before you ask why you put a hole through the frame you might want to look at yours you have one now except it is 3/4"-1" hole now from factory. I located the spot that did not cut out any welds for strenght since the factory uses crumple zones to ensure safety. If you were to look at the hole which factory has on both sides you can take a 90 degree tool and stick it in the frame and you will feel a metal top and a lower top. The 2 " hole fits right between the top and bottom so that metals they put inside are not hampered. The 2" return pipe is snug which I like personally you can do whatever you want on that part. So when I give you this template you will place it on my marks and take a 2" hole saw and drill thourgh the first outer metal. Then after you penetrate keep the drill straight and from the same side drill from inside to ouside the inner wall. Now as you stated you don't like you are not obligated to buy this kit. I will inform everyone on what needs to be done so that you can make your decision on your purchase.

Now when I ordered ADC kit it also required you to cut out the fender supports and inner walls to make passage for it large 3.5 piping. I am going to keep you from doing that since taking off the fender is a pain in butt plus I hated trying to cut through 3 layers of uneven metals with a vertical saw.

And about the oil coolers my piping will allow for a cooler there. I am going to come off that peice of pipe you asked about with a 90 degree silcone elbow then a 45 degree pipe which will be nice and close to the frame leaving enough room for a square cooler to be mounted trust me I will put one on to show you. And yes a oil cooler is better than factory if you use it too . The power steering cooler will be relocated to the passenger side.

BurritaSVT said:

The pipe you see going through the frame is the return air charge from the intercooler. First before you ask why you put a hole through the frame you might want to look at yours you have one now except it is 3/4"-1" hole now from factory. I located the spot that did not cut out any welds for strenght since the factory uses crumple zones to ensure safety. If you were to look at the hole which factory has on both sides you can take a 90 degree tool and stick it in the frame and you will feel a metal top and a lower top. The 2 " hole fits right between the top and bottom so that metals they put inside are not hampered. The 2" return pipe is snug which I like personally you can do whatever you want on that part. So when I give you this template you will place it on my marks and take a 2" hole saw and drill thourgh the first outer metal. Then after you penetrate keep the drill straight and from the same side drill from inside to ouside the inner wall. Now as you stated you don't like you are not obligated to buy this kit. I will inform everyone on what needs to be done so that you can make your decision on your purchase.

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I completely understand that not there isn't an obligation to purchase if I don't like what I see ... I just found it really odd that this would be a good solution, but I am sure you understand how to run everything for the best fit/performace, etc ... my concern was about weakening the frame, but a tight fitting tube would help reinforce that ... and since there was a factory located whole there then that makes sense as a good spot to pick to do this ... could there be any other concerns about coming through the frame like this?

First I didn't mean the comment in a mean way at all I maybe should have worded it as I obviousily won't meet everyone wishes but the car limits me on my decisions and I love the fact you gave me your concerns and opinions. If you make a good point I will research it and find a better solution to it. I went takes some pics so you can follow why I did it. First off I tried to route it through the towing brackets and the drier a/c it wouldn't fit because the a/c high pressure hose would not let me plus if it did give at all it would make the rubber hose rub tightly against the frame wearing ahole right through it from road vibrations. I then though of running it under the crossover member but then you will hit a curb or bump and there goes your piping and everything else too. I also tried to out it through the frame by the tranny but the clearance was an issue and I was not going to cut the corner of a frame since it is the load point. And if you look at the pics you will see a large whole at about 1" right through the wall on both side plus the inner wall has more holes than the outside. Therefore if that would have been a safety issue they would have not had them there by factory. I also took another pics of me pointing out the welds point where they tacked the inner wall that you can see in the pic. Now that inner peice was just nicked off and the welds and supports on the inside wall are still intact too plus I could show you that the hole goes through that peice too. I will be glad to show you the cut out peices of you need to see it was nothing more than a moon shaped cut of the end and complete circles on the outer walls. And yes you are right the pipe retains the stress point even if any......The kit will be sold as a off-road kit only also known as a tuner kit you can change anything you like. Oh also notice I placed a 45 degree pipe to show you how it will stay close to the frame and there will be another 45 degree pipe welded to it then a 90 degree tight radius silicone hose connected to the 45 degree pipe I will add shortly. Thanks Joey

About the coolers.. that's great news. It also looks like the remote oil filter adapter could be moved more forward... though an intermediate bracket might be needed. Now I just need to make sure there's some additional length in my oil sensors lines to move the adapter forward.

Even if there's not enough room for thick coolers... I wouldn't imagine it would be too difficult for me to mount the i/c from the bumper.

[/QUOTE]

So what your saying is that the kit will require us to cut that whole to run the ic piping through there? I may be slow and missing something...

Cut that hole is not a problem at all. I have a one hole yet for my Cold Air Extension and take me 10min to do it.

Can this thread be moved to someplace where not everyone can post? I just want to see updates and Burrita/Warmonger info. Honestly I went through 30 freaking pages just to read like 10 or 11 posts that actually had pertinent information. I know people want to ask questions but can't we have two separate threads or something? One for Q&A and one for actual updates that address warmonger/burritas progress and problems they might have encountered/overcome. It just seems like a huge thread for such a small amount of content about the stuff that some of us hands on guys want to see. I mean there are like 3-4 pages of TRicker and his antagonists.:nonono:

dairdevyld said:

Can this thread be moved to someplace where not everyone can post? I just want to see updates and Burrita/Warmonger info. Honestly I went through 30 freaking pages just to read like 10 or 11 posts that actually had pertinent information. I know people want to ask questions but can't we have two separate threads or something? One for Q&A and one for actual updates that address warmonger/burritas progress and problems they might have encountered/overcome. It just seems like a huge thread for such a small amount of content about the stuff that some of us hands on guys want to see. I mean there are like 3-4 pages of TRicker and his antagonists.:nonono:

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The deal is, this is an interest check. This is where questions SHOULD be asked. This is where the fabricators get an idea of what the consumer wants. Where they can get questions answered about the kits, what's involved as far as modifications and alterations they have to make and so on. As soon as they start mass production of the kit, and not just mock-up, there will be a group buy thread listed which will be full of the exact information. As of now, nothing is set in stone. Exact location of everything, price, and modifications that need to be made, are still not 100% confirmed. So as information is released on this thread, we have an opportunity to comment on it, and the fabricators have a chance to answer our questions regarding the current steps that are being made. Yes there is a lot of worthless posts like bickering between CEG'ers, but most posts are about the kit and details. So until the official group buy is created, it's just something you'll have to sift through to get information that is specific to you.

And those who are interested in this kit, please keep posting questions and answers.

Adnd those who are not interested and just want to judge it or aspects of it, your opinion is noted, but please don't fill up this thread with arguements and such.

Thanks Posthuman nicely summed up....

Ok I have some pics of the downpipe I made it fit very high and follows the tranny very well. I unfortunatly only had 3 hours to work tonite on the kit but I am pleased with the outcome I should be able to mock in the 90 degree 2.5 pipe to the rest of the downpipe tomorrow morning then I will go find another 2.5 flange locally so I can tie in the rest of the catback. The tight radius donuts should be here tomorrow so i can finish up the intercooler and the front bank crossover pipe. It is looking good I will be finalizing the kit this weekend if I have all materials on time. Here are some pics of the downpipe I constructed.

Pics don't work!!!!

ooh ohh want to see!!!

Harrry said:

Pics don't work!!!!

ooh ohh want to see!!!

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pics work for me. Its hot sects