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The Electrics Gremlins Have Returned !!!

00SVTGA

CEG'er
Joined
Mar 5, 2004
Messages
128
Location
Gwinnett , Ga
OK OUT OF THE BLUE THE CAR START HESITATION & PRETTY MUCH FALLS ON ITS FACE WHEN I GIVE IT A LITTLE GAS THEN IT SEEMS NO MATTER HOW MUCH PEDAL I GIVE IT IT JUST BOGGS DOWN AND HALF THE TIME WILL STALL OUT. THIS HAPPENS 5-10 SECONDS AFTER I PULL OFF FROM SITTING AT A RED LIGHT FOR ABOUT FIVE MINUTES. THE CAR WILL START TO BOGG DOWN AN WILL NOT RESPOND TO THE GAS PEDAL AND THE ALARM LIGHT IN THE CENTER OF THE DASH WILL FLASH 3-5 TIMES . SOME TIME THIS WILL PASS AND THE CAR IS DRIVES JUST FINE . THIS HAS HAPPEND FOUR TIMES IN THE PASSED WEEK AND SEEMS TO JUST HAPPEN OUT OF THE BLUE . SOMETIMES WHILE LEAVING A LIGHT OTHER TIME WHILE I'M JUST CRUSING DOWN THE ROAD AT ABOUT 2.5-3k RPMS.

ANY CLUES ?

ALSO NOTICE A LOUD HUMMING SOUND COMING FROM THE FUSE BOX AREA.

CAR HAS 89k MILES ON IT. ABOUT 40k MILES ON A NEW FACTORY LONG BLOCK. LIGHT ALSO SEEM TO CONSTANTLY FLICKED AT NIGHT WHILE NOT ON THE GAS PEDAL. AT IDLE OR JUST COASTING.
 
Ok While At Lunch Today The Car Just Up And Died It Retarted Once An Then Diesd Again Now The Car Will Not Evern Crank. There Is A Reley Click Sound Coming Forn The Ecu And A Bird Chirping Souns When I Try To Turn The Ignition Over.

The Alarm Light On The Dah Continues To Flash And Does Not Seem To Disarm The Keyless Entry Remote Still Seems Work But The Alrms Light In The Dash Will Not Stop Flashing.

Anyone Ever Had A Problem Like This. I've Tryed Reseting The Ecu By Pulling The Negitive Cable Off The Battery For 5- 10 Untill I Thought It Was Erased But It Did Not Work. Also Tryed Pulling The 3amp And The 20 Amp Fuse Under The Hood For 5 Mins But That Didn't Fix The Problem Either.
 
Sounds like a battery /alternator problem. Charge the battery real well start it up and see what the voltage is at the battery terminals. A fully charged battery should show 12.6 to 12.8 volts, when the alternator is charging you should see somewhere around 14.5 volts. If you are getting less, then you need to check the main charge fuse and if good, you probably need an alternator. Sounds to me you were running around on your battery and it finally lost enough to not to allow you to start.
Same car died with no battery light ever coming on, same type of symptoms, battery died, due to no charging, ran out of juice, car died on the hwy. Charged up the battery ran it home checked for the 14.5 volts at the battery terminals, only saw 12.6, changed the alternator, problem, resolved.
 
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Battery, alternator, or mega-fuse - or some combination of the three. You might think about pulling the superchip out for a day or two to see if maybe you got a bad connection or sup'm. Will also prevent damage to the chip if you jump start the car.
 
I Also Pulled Out The Superchip Which Had No Affect.

If It Is The Alternator Is The Problem . Why Would The Alram Not Deactivate ? Why Once I Pree The Unlock Botton On The Keyless Entry System Does The Alram Light Continue To Blink . Possible P.a.s. System Problem ?
 
I think you are confusing the PATS status light with an aftermarket alarm status light.

the PATS light should blink, roughly once per second ANYTIME you don't have the ignition on. locked, unlocked, in the car, or out.

Once the key is turned ON, it should illuminate for about 1.5-2 seconds steady, then go off completely until you turn the ignitiono back off.

If your light is doing those things, ignore the PATS/alarm inclinations and focus on the starter, starter relay, or insufficient charge to perform the normal starting procedures.
 
Had The Car Towed To The Certified Svt Ford Dealership.

Turns Out The Pats System Chip Inside The Key Itself Has Gone Bad, Dealers Said Car Needs Two New Keys And They Need To Be Programed To The Pats System .

Cost With Labor And Everything About $250

Car Has Had New Alternator, New Starter And New Battety Within Last Year. So I Was Guessing It Had Something To Do With The Alarm Not Allowing The Car To Start.

CAR SHOULD BE READY FOR PICK UP LATER ON TODAY. MAN WHAT A POS !!!
ITS SOMETHING NEW EVERY SINGLE MONTH.


THE PATS LIGHT WOULD STAY ON CONSTANT WHILE TURNING THE IGNITION AND I WOULD HEAR A BIRD CHIRPING " ONE SOUND "SOUND COMING FROM THE ECU. ALSO A CLICKING SOUNS COMING FROM UNDER THE BACK SEAT FUEL PUMP AREA.
 
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Had The Car Towed To The Certified Svt Ford Dealership.

Turns Out The Pats System Chip Inside The Key Itself Has Gone Bad, Dealers Said Car Needs Two New Keys And They Need To Be Programed To The Pats System .

Cost With Labor And Everything About $250

CAR SHOULD BE READY FOR PICK UP LATER ON TODAY. MAN WHAT A POS !!!
ITS SOMETHING NEW EVERY SINGLE MONTH.
BOTH keys were bad? Or you only had one key to begin with? Seems like a strange thing to happen. I guess the keys aren't indestructible after all. :shrug:
Karl
 
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