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naive questions on replacing the factory radio/cassette

D

daye

Be Gentle I'm New Here
Joined
Jan 11, 2001
Messages
3
Location
Maryland
It's a 98 GL. This is the first time I tough the audio/car. Forgive me if these are really dumb questions, and please help shed some light on this:

I am replacing the factory radio/cassette for a newer model CD. I can find the 8 wires to the speakers, but am puzzled on the rest wirings. Plus, it's different than what on the diagram of the Haynes manual (http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=528075755&size=o).

The Haynes manual has 6 wires:
1: Orange/Black, looks like connect to the battery;
2: Black/Green, looks like to the Ground;
3: Blue/Black, looks like to the ignition switch;
4: White/Green: looks like to the light switch;
5: Black/Orange: to alarm;
6: Black/Green: to the Ground;

The actual wiring:
Same as the diagram, except:
- No. 5 is missing (understandable, as no alarm equipped);
- 7: Blue/Red, not sure where it connects to

The new unit only require 3 wires: ground/battery/ignition

So the questions:
1) Is it right that Wire No. 1 is the battery, No. 2 is the ground, and No. 3 is the ignition?
2) What do I do with the original wirings of No. 4, 6, 7?
3) What is the function of wire 7?

thank you very much!
 
daye said:
It's a 98 GL. This is the first time I tough the audio/car. Forgive me if these are really dumb questions, and please help shed some light on this:

I am replacing the factory radio/cassette for a newer model CD. I can find the 8 wires to the speakers, but am puzzled on the rest wirings. Plus, it's different than what on the diagram of the Haynes manual (http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=528075755&size=o).

The Haynes manual has 6 wires:
1: Orange/Black, looks like connect to the battery;
2: Black/Green, looks like to the Ground;
3: Blue/Black, looks like to the ignition switch;
4: White/Green: looks like to the light switch;
5: Black/Orange: to alarm;
6: Black/Green: to the Ground;

The actual wiring:
Same as the diagram, except:
- No. 5 is missing (understandable, as no alarm equipped);
- 7: Blue/Red, not sure where it connects to

The new unit only require 3 wires: ground/battery/ignition

So the questions:
1) Is it right that Wire No. 1 is the battery, No. 2 is the ground, and No. 3 is the ignition?
2) What do I do with the original wirings of No. 4, 6, 7?
3) What is the function of wire 7?

thank you very much!
Click to expand...

Get a harness....! Solves all problems... spend the money and do it right!

37540921.JPG


Or if you have premium sound system.... You can bypass with this

FDK2B.jpg


Or integrate a factory amp system with this (if you have 2 pairs of pre outs on your deck)

FDK1B.jpg
 
Schematics, but harness only 10-15 $

Schematics, but harness only 10-15 $

The Blue/red is for power antenna.
Schematics if you have the 2 large gray and black plugs, you probably do with cassette radio:

baseradio.gif
[/IMG]


basespkrs.gif
 
Last edited:
Okay............ ??? Factory deck and amp schematics.... what's your point... get the harnesses....
 
harnesses

harnesses

Thank you guys, just ordered a harness from Crutchfield. Will see when it comes.
 
FavoriteMystaque said:
I had them at Photobucket, figured I would post them in case daye is doing it the hard way.
Click to expand...

oh, well I hope no one does it that way, harnesses are sooo much easier to work with, and much worth the expense.... plus if you ever switch radios you can just rewire.... easier than hardwiring every time....

daye said:
Thank you guys, just ordered a harness from Crutchfield. Will see when it comes.
Click to expand...

Which harness did you get?
 
just in case you're unfortunate and have to hardwire yOUR NEW hu

just in case you're unfortunate and have to hardwire yOUR NEW hu

I got to hardwire mine because the harnesses were hacked off by an idiot who thought he knew car audio.... will I even let others work on my car..

The wiring seems to be a bit different for mine from what I mostly read for a cassette radio( referring to wire color guide posted previously here and other online sources) but this is what I figured out so far(correct me if I'm wrong). The manual CD did not help too much either but I figured it out in the end. I gotta say that after market really does make a huge difference on the sound to the ear.

Power - you only need the first 3
blue/black(switched 12 v+/ignition)
black/green(ground)
orange/black (constant 12v+)

these are optional only if you have a HU that dims, you got a power antenna and alarm.
blue/red(power antenna signal)
white/green(illumination)
black/orange(alarm)

Speakers
Left Front
(+) white/black
(-) brown/yellow

Right Front
(+) white/red
(-) Brown/yellow

Left Rear
 (+)White/purple
(-)brown/white

Right Rear
(+) white/purple (or sometimes solid white)
(-) brown/white (or solid brown)

This is for a cassette radio with no amp. If your harness is cut and you have an amp(if you're not sure open your glove box and look for the shine silver "box" behind it) then you're **** out of a luck, it's doable but risky. By all means, DO use the harness you can buy at bestbuy, they make your life so much easier, plug and play

connect ground first and put the HU aside, DO NOT CONNECT THE HARNESS THE UNIT WHILE YOU PLAY WITH WIRING.

Always use good electrical tape or better insulators and tidy up your wiring.

Good luck.
 
Last edited:
alex894 said:
I got to hardwire mine because the harnesses were hacked off by an idiot who thought he knew car audio.... will I even let others work on my car..

The wiring seems to be a bit different for mine from what I mostly read for a cassette radio( referring to wire color guide posted previously here and other online sources) but this is what I figured out so far(correct me if I'm wrong). The manual CD did not help too much either but I figured it out in the end. I gotta say that after market really does make a huge difference on the sound to the ear.

Power - you only need the first 3
blue/black(switched 12 v+/ignition)
black/green(ground)
orange/black (constant 12v+)

these are optional only if you have a HU that dims, you got a power antenna and alarm.
blue/red(power antenna signal)
white/green(illumination)
black/orange(alarm)

Speakers
Left Front
(+) white/black
(-) brown/yellow

Right Front
(+) white/red
(-) Brown/yellow

Left Rear
 (+)White/purple
(-)brown/white

Right Rear
(+) white/purple (or sometimes solid white)
(-) brown/white (or solid brown)

This is for a cassette radio with no amp. If your harness is cut and you have an amp(if you're not sure open your glove box and look for the shine silver "box" behind it) then you're **** out of a luck, it's doable but risky. By all means, DO use the harness you can buy at bestbuy, they make your life so much easier, plug and play

connect ground first and put the HU aside, DO NOT CONNECT THE HARNESS THE UNIT WHILE YOU PLAY WITH WIRING.

Always use good electrical tape or better insulators and tidy up your wiring.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
if the stock harness is hacked off, u can get a harness that u can solder to it basically having stock harness again. then u can order an aftermarket harness to wire to your aftermarket hu and anytime u change hu u can just change or rewire the aftermarket harness. i think the stock harness replacement is 1770 and aftermarket is 1771 from metra or vice versa.
 
Hi,, I just wanted to put some info up for anyone who wants it or needs it..

Hi,, I just wanted to put some info up for anyone who wants it or needs it..

Just to let all know- the Premium sound system-you can hook a 94-2000 Mustang Mach system right up to the Contour. The Mach Sytem is made by Sony-those harness wire/amp harness only need to get is two hook ups. Plug and play! I also replaced the Speakers with Pioneer-TS-A6872R-made to fit our cars-6 x 8. Heres a pic of the stereo in the car. Sounds great. If anyone is interested, I will put up the part number-for the two hook ups needed. Did not know, but thought most wanted after market stereos, not stock like this! BUT, YES THE KIT FROM CRUTCHFIELD WILL BYPASS THE AMP! This way I am using the amp! Good luck! Hope this will help others..


Tour

2964153_4_full.jpg
​
 
Out of curiosity, is the kit you're using from Crutchfield this one :
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Prod...0705004&search=ford+bypass&tp=2977&tab=review
AKA http://www.amazon.com/METRA-Ltd-70-...1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1212714501&sr=8-1

Because I did bypass my amplifier on my previous 99 with the Scotche harness (never again! Piece of crap, the wires got loose from the connectors after a couple weeks) and I had to redo the wiring myself from 2 different connectors.
I couldn't find the Metra one back in that time, so I had no choice.

I'm looking at the Metra one, and it still seems that one of the connector is different than the HU side connector on the amp. I checked the FAQ again, and the only way that I can see that the bypass can be done is to redo the wiring with the 2 different connectors again. Am I missing something ?
 
MrFord said:
I'm looking at the Metra one, and it still seems that one of the connector is different than the HU side connector on the amp. I checked the FAQ again, and the only way that I can see that the bypass can be done is to redo the wiring with the 2 different connectors again. Am I missing something ?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what you're trying to say. If you want to do the bypass like in the FAQs you need the Metra kit with 3 sets of connectors. 1 rectangle one will plug into the power wires behind the current unit, 1 square one will go in the trash and 1 long double ended one that gets cut and spliced into the harness from the headunit of your choice.
 
Sorry I wasn't clear, but that's what I meant and what I ended to do on the 99. It's just somewhat confusing in the FAQ that at the beginning, there's a Metra harness identified as the Amp bypass kit, while in fact it's the same CrownVic bypass that needs to be hacked to work on the Contour. I'm just getting ready to do it again on my 2000, and this time, no Scotche!

That's strange that nobody ever did an OEM bypass for the Contour amp... was it the ONLY one with these connectors?
 
MrFord said:
Sorry I wasn't clear, but that's what I meant and what I ended to do on the 99. It's just somewhat confusing in the FAQ that at the beginning, there's a Metra harness identified as the Amp bypass kit, while in fact it's the same CrownVic bypass that needs to be hacked to work on the Contour. I'm just getting ready to do it again on my 2000, and this time, no Scotche!

That's strange that nobody ever did an OEM bypass for the Contour amp... was it the ONLY one with these connectors?
Click to expand...

You could have just sent a PM to me since I was the creator of the how-to :D saying that the harness I posted is actually a CrownVic bypass that needs to be hacked to work on the Contour may be partially true. The reality is that ford harnesses are pretty standard. I believe they have used the same harness since '84 on ford vehicles. Some vehicles you can bypass the amp simply by unplugging both input and output cables from the amp and using the bypass harness as one piece and plug the two together (ford probes for example). Other vehicles (like the contour) you have to cut and splice.
 
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