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intake manifold control runner

C

contour99freak

Be Gentle I'm New Here
Joined
Nov 16, 2005
Messages
2
Location
mn
my contour 99 se v6 109000miles

it has been running bad. it bogs/ just revs slow after 4rpms to 6 1/2rmps
the check engine light came on soo i brought it to auto zone, they hooked there
meter up to it, it said that the intake manifold runner control was stuck open
does any one know what this could be

Thanks
 
contour99freak said:
my contour 99 se v6 109000miles

it has been running bad. it bogs/ just revs slow after 4rpms to 6 1/2rmps
the check engine light came on soo i brought it to auto zone, they hooked there
meter up to it, it said that the intake manifold runner control was stuck open
does any one know what this could be

Thanks
Click to expand...

One of two things...Either the IMRC has failed due to excessive heat (very common), or the linkage shaft that opens and closes both banks of secondary butterflies has been broken. If you remove the UIM you can gain access to the secondaries and aforementioned linkage easily. There are two white plastic inserts that retain the linkage rod in place. These get very hot and become brittle over time and will break. This in turn causes the linkage rod to become very sloppy or even fall out of the inserts all together. This will throw the code as well. It causes one of the banks of secondary butterflies to stay open at all times. Removing the UIM is not very difficult. Just do it carefully.

If you remove the accordian tube and airbox you can actually see underneath the throttle body enough to inspect the linkage rod and inserts without removing the UIM. If that is not the problem, then it will more than likely be the IMRC failure. There is a fix lurking around here somewhere. I'm pretty sure some one brought the link over from the Old Forum. Hope this helps. Keep us posted.

For reference, the plastic inserts can be had still from Ford at the mere sum of $5.00 a piece. The linkage rod is somewhere around the $7.00 mark if remember correctly.
 
Pale Horse said:
One of two things...Either the IMRC has failed due to excessive heat (very common), or the linkage shaft that opens and closes both banks of secondary butterflies has been broken. If you remove the UIM you can gain access to the secondaries and aforementioned linkage easily. There are two white plastic inserts that retain the linkage rod in place. These get very hot and become brittle over time and will break. This in turn causes the linkage rod to become very sloppy or even fall out of the inserts all together. This will throw the code as well. It causes one of the banks of secondary butterflies to stay open at all times. Removing the UIM is not very difficult. Just do it carefully.

If you remove the accordian tube and airbox you can actually see underneath the throttle body enough to inspect the linkage rod and inserts without removing the UIM. If that is not the problem, then it will more than likely be the IMRC failure. There is a fix lurking around here somewhere. I'm pretty sure some one brought the link over from the Old Forum. Hope this helps. Keep us posted.

For reference, the plastic inserts can be had still from Ford at the mere sum of $5.00 a piece. The linkage rod is somewhere around the $7.00 mark if remember correctly.
Click to expand...

The IMRC box fix is only if your resistor went bad. I opened up my IMRC box when I had that code and the same symptoms... my problem was that my cable had actually broke in two inside the IMRC box. I had to replace the whole box and cable which is very easy and doesn't take long at all. But other than that, you had great information!


Reebs
 
more help

more help

thanks for the tips
i have a couple questions is the uim the intake manifold if it is and i take it off will i need to replace the gaskets. also what and were is the IMRC box
 
UIM upper intake manifold. IMRC under plastic water pump cover (three 7mm bolts to remove the plastic cover). If you haven't replaced the gasket for the UIM before, yes, you need a new gasket when you remove the UIM. If you replaced it in the past 6 months or so, you probably don't need a new gasket.

Edit. Figure 4 in Autozone link for water pump pulley shield.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1b/c4/af/0900823d801bc4af.jsp
 
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