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Tranny shifts hard

satur9poet

CEG'er
Joined
May 1, 2007
Messages
45
Hey all! My '98 Mystique GS (Zetec, ATX) seems to shift pretty hard when put in Drive. It doesn't seem to do this in Park or Reverse. What could be the problem?

Another problem is a hard "clunk" heard and felt when I make a hard right or hit a bump. Sometimes I'll hear the noise a few times in a row. I'm thinking maybe a tie rod or something is bad on that side. It appears to be getting worse. :help:
 
Subframe bolts would make the sound also when braking and sometimes going over bumps. I wouldnt think that this is the case for you. I had a loose subframe bolt and the only sound it would make was a loud pop/clunk when braking or going over a bump as I said...

I just found this after browsing the forums and this sounds like the problem I have regarding the clunking noise. Are subframe bolts expensive to replace?
I hope it's not the front axle that's going!!! I just bought the car last month and everything checked out--63,000 mi. and everything is working fine, except this...
 
You can check this. Get your car up on a lift, and get a crowbar or a comparable device ready. I forget EXACTLY how you're supposed to jam the crowbar in, but what you want to do is push on the sub-frame while using the frame as a lever with the crowbar. If you can wiggle that sub-frame and hear that pop coming from that bolt, then you know you have a problem. You will most likely be able to merely tighten it. But be wary, overtightening the bolt can cause the nut cage on the top side of the frame to break loose. This = bad. This would then require a cut in the frame to gain access to the nut cage to replace it and the bolt. It's painful, I had to have it done.
 
Sometimes I'll hear the noise a few times in a row....

Occasionally, I did hear it multiple times, FYI. (I wrote that quote you found :), so I've had the sub-frame bolt problems) This would only occur if I was 3-point turning, usually when it was in someones driveway that was on a sliiiiight incline. When my car lurched forward from hitting the brakes and turning to a stop, I would hear it pop/clunk no more than four times. Regardless, I suspect this might no be your problem, even though it is easy to check and I recommend you check it. I also recommend that you inspect your swaybar (the bushings and endlinks). My swaybar bushing wore out and I had nearly the same sounds that I got from when my sub-frame bolts were loose. This is even easier to check. Reach around the side of your front tire (doesn't matter which side) while your car is parked, and grasp the swaybar firmly. Try to move it towards and away from the wheels, back and forth. If it shifts a lot, therein lies your problem.
 
Ah! So you're the one I quoted! Interesting...unfortunately, I don't have the means to get under my car to look at things, so taking it to my mechanic will have to do. Are those types of repairs expensive?

And that sounds exactly like my car--turn the wheel more than 1/2 way on a slight incline and it makes the popping noise. This sounds like a common problem on this model.

One more thing--if my transmission only shifts hard when put in Drive, will a tranny flush fix the problem? I don't want to get talked into replacing the whole thing just because it shifts hard in one gear. Other than that, it runs fine.:shrug:
 
For the abrupt shift into D, open the hood and watch the engine while you work the shifter into and out of drive, rev, and neutral. If the engine is moving too much, your roll restirctors are probably worn out and you're hearing/feeling the whole drivetrain flop around abruptly.

Steve
 
Ah! So you're the one I quoted! Interesting...unfortunately, I don't have the means to get under my car to look at things, so taking it to my mechanic will have to do. Are those types of repairs expensive?


Well, it depends. If your bolt is rotted and decrepit (sp?) then it would need replacing. This entails cutting a small access hole in the side of the frame next to where the bolt sits. The bolt would then be cut, both pieces removed, and the entire nut cage and bolt would be replaced. I had this done on one side of my car. On the other side, It was able to be tightened, the bolt was still in good enough shape to be used. However, the nut cage was loose, it would freely rotate, so there was no way to tighten the bolt...or so I thought! I had brought my car to a frame shop, so they had some dandy tools with them. One was this GIANT crowbar type thing, haha. There is a small access hole 6" to a foot from the bolt location in the frame, towards the middle of the car. They inserted this crowbar thing in the hole and using leverage, they pushed down on the nut cage EXTREMELY hard. They only charged me $45 bucks to do this, because it took THREE guys to do it. Two struggled with the crowbar, another tightened the bolt. It was a bit more expensive to replace the other bolt. about $200 after the alignment...However, I do recommend you check your swaybar! I wouldn't want you to bring your car in thinking it's one of you bolts making the sound when it could be that swaybar. Like I said, grasp the swaybar and see if you can move it...It should be VERY difficult to move it by hand when it's parked.
 
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