OK you guys Thanks for the help but.....

[DariusCSVT]

Ok guys you've been great but this thing is still not running and frankly im tired of it so if your in the Colorado springs/Denver area check this out
http://denver.craigslist.org/car/325713584.html
and yes i tried posting in the classifieds and got permission denied i need her gone now like yesterday

Oh and from personal experience STAY AWAY FROM 3L PERFORMANCE they were up my ass answering questions and giving advice and checking up on me before and right after i bought the engine but as soon as i mentioned having problems with it they would not return my email just and FYI on my experience

[Buckshot77]

Darius,

What is the website/company you had issues with? Please list the URL here for reference. Sorry to hear you had issues with the swap. Did you check the crank pulsewheel for proper alignment? That's the #1 most common no start reason. I actually had it happen on one of my projects once and I've done a number of the swaps.

Rick

[Buckshot77]

OK, ignore my comment about the pulsewheel since the car actually ran after the swap and then died. The ECU being replaced will not work unless you disable PATS or have the ECU reflashed to match your key. The audio installer probably won't be able to help you out with a quick fix that can be taken care of at home. I'd plan to tow the car to the dealer and have them reflash the ECU to your key. The only other option is to use a computer tuner to disable the PATS in the ECU. The audio guy won't work since they usually use a spare key with the correct chip in it to think that key is in the ignition. In this case, you don't have a key that is correct.

Rick

[CSVT#49]

Ok guys you've been great but this thing is still not running and frankly im tired of it so if your in the Colorado springs/Denver area check this out
http://denver.craigslist.org/car/325713584.html
and yes i tried posting in the classifieds and got permission denied i need her gone now like yesterday

Oh and from personal experience STAY AWAY FROM 3L PERFORMANCE they were up my ass answering questions and giving advice and checking up on me before and right after i bought the engine but as soon as i mentioned having problems with it they would not return my email just and FYI on my experience

I just replied to your add on craiglist. Check your email.

[DariusCSVT]

Ok one more week of the contour. I need a solution im taking two suggestions and then shes gone. A. take the computer and the key to ford and pray they can flash it. B figure out a way to work around it.

[Buckshot77]

As far as I know, you have to take the whole car in to the dealer, not just the key and computer as they have to use the ignition on the car to do the programming. The other suggestion is to see if someone locally does tuning with the SCT software and is willing to write just a program to kill off the PATS requirement for your computer. They should be able to come to you and flash the car for that little bit. With any luck they might just charge you a little bit of cash since it should take more than 15-20 minutes.

Rick

[JoeM]

Darius, I believe i will take it.
Any chance you can meet me half way? if not i can pick it up Sat the 19th

[DNeinstadt]

Charles, I have responded to EVERY single E-mail you've EVER sent me. I have record to show if you want me to post it up somewhere.

On 11/28/06, Dan Neinstadt <dneinstadt@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Charles, I'm out of the office today so I'll write what I can from the road.
> The wiring instructions we have in our install is basically to extend two
> sets of wires, one three wire and one two wire connection. There is no NEW
> wiring. Nothing you need to do for the 3L install should have anything to do
> with the starter wires or anything like that. The sensors that we extend are
> just in different spots on the 3L so the wires need to be longer in order to
> reach the new locations.
>
> As for the wiring for the alarm, it sounds like the alarm is draining the
> battery, not sure how or why, but that's my guess. You could have a bad
> alternator too, but that is less likely as it seemed to work on your old
> motor.The starter you are describing is under the intake and has the correct
> cabling. I don't think the problem is with the starter itself, the probably
> is either in the alarm, the Anti-theft system, or the computer, not sure
> which it is. Which light was blinking when you had trouble, the CHECK ENGINE
> light or the THEFT light? The Contours have an anti-theft system (Passive
> Anti-Theft System) and they require a chip in the key in order to run. The
> alarm may also tap into that system and if the alarm is acting goofy, the
> car could not start or even turn over because of that.
>
> Dan


There is nothing wrong with our motor. There is something wrong with your PATS, which is what we have told you NUMEROUS times in the last 6 months, as are others in this same thread. If the car will not TURN over, there is nothing wrong with the motor. If the light flashes in the dash, it is a wiring/Pats/alarm issue. NOT THE MOTOR.

Please don't blame our shop for this, we have had many happy customers and all it takes is one bad review for our shop to lose credibility.

Dan

[JoeM]

Charles
Can you tow it a short distance? If so, I can have it picked up in the next couple days.
Need it brought to Aurora, CO, if not, ill have to come get it. let me know. Look forward to hearing from you.

[elraido]

Charles
Can you tow it a short distance? If so, I can have it picked up in the next couple days.
Need it brought to Aurora, CO, if not, ill have to come get it. let me know. Look forward to hearing from you.

Looks like Joe is stealing it from him