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stock cams

airharley

New CEG'er
Joined
Jan 24, 2005
Messages
15
Location
Escondido, CA
I just finished having the head rebuild on my 99 Tour's 2.0 DOHC. I was in the middle of reinstalling the stock exhaust cam when I heard a loud "crack". I broke the cam in two between the #1 lobes just after the #1 cam cap. Anyone know where I can get a stock replacement without paying an arm and a leg? I have searched the net using goolge but haven't turned up anything more then a few Comp Cam aftermarket cams. Paying $316 for a new set of cams isn't too bad but I would like to run what it had since it's a daily driver with no mods done to it. I have more knowledge on V-8's then I-4's. I am assuming that the cam follower discs also need to be changed out with a new cam. Am I wrong on this?
 
yes you will have to change the lifters/followers. which cam has the VCT, intake or exhaust? if its the intake i will have a used exhaust cam and lifters that i can sell you for cheap. ill make sure to keep each lifter seperated and labeled so you know where they go. it is from a 97 but i believe the specs were all the same.
 
The exhaust cam has the VCT. From what I have read in 98 they changed to the exhaust cam. Why I don't know since the principles are exactly the same. I wish I could use the cam you have, thanks for the offer though. I wanted to jump off a bridge when I heard it snap yesterday.

Can anyone tell me the stock spec's for these cam's and if they are hyd or mech? I came across a few on summitracing but they list them as mech cam's needing .023 lash. From what I can see the stock cams are mach since the lifters don't have oil ports. What am I not seeing?
 
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Ok I received the parts from buttonpusher that he sold to me. I have everything back together but now I can't seem to keep the cams in time. I've read the post 98 timing instructions a few times and that doesn't seem to help. The crank dampener doesn't have the tick marks that line up on anything with the oil pan. I resorted to using a telescoping magnet to figure out TDC to align the cams with. After the 4th attempt at getting it set right I only still have 30 psi on my compression gauge. Meaning the cams aren't timed correctly. I am thinking that there may be something I am missing in my procedures. I had to take the sprockets off both cams to keep a matched set since the last exhaust cam broke.

From what I can see the back of the exhaust cam has the five little fingers that pass by the sensor which tells the coil pack to fire. Is it possible that the ignition timing is actually sensed off the flex plate and that I have the crank 180 out? Looking at the cams with the timing tool engaged the exhaust lobes are about to push open the lifters after TDC, sucking in, and the intake lobes are past their lifters. In my mind they should be the exact opposite.

Can someone take a pic of the cams so I can see what I am messing up?
 
Cylinders No. 1 and No. 4 are at TDC when the Woodruff key points straight up. Should buy the Crank pin to make sure you are exactly at TDC. Leave cam sprockets loose when setting tensioner.
 
Well after swapping the cams 180m degrees, nothing. I even pulled the cams apart again and took the crank hub off to verify everything. I am starting to wonder if the machine shop messed up the valve job. It wouldn't be the first time something like that happened. Tomorrow I am going to add compressed air to each cylinder to see where the pressure is leaking from. I'll post back with what I find out.

I am half tempted to use a degree wheel to time the cams if I can get one in there.

Searching for an answer I just stumbled across this webpage that has a few topics explained. http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=118500 Which lead me to this http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=117788 Any truth to it?
 
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After swapping to the other head, all is well. I even drove it to work this morning after replacing the stripped out intake cam gear bolt. Luckily the dealership happened to have one is stock.
 
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