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Thread: O2 Extensions

  1. #1

    Default O2 Extensions

    Ok, so the problem I have is that before the end of the year last year, I bought new front O2's. They are NTK (brand of NGK). I only kept them because I got a smokin deal on them ($80 shipped overnight directly from NGK for the pair). I also have MSDA headers. The problem I have is that the wires are too short to put them into the correct locations in the headers for the correct bank readings.

    My question: Do they sell extensions for the B1 and B2 front O2's on our cars? I've found some square "universal" extensions on like summit but wanted to get other peoples opinions before buying them.

    I know if I don't get them in the right locations, my fuel trims won't be correct for the banks and I'm also seeing that in my data logs versus my wideband.

    TIA,
    Dale
    I'll put holes in him!!

  2. #2

    Lightbulb

    Cut your original O2 sensor's plug and wire and splice them into your new sensors. Plug and play after that.
    2000 SVT #674
    13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
    2005 Magnum R/T
    2 Ton Tank with a Hemi

  3. #3

    Default

    That was to be my last resort. I once heard somewhere that some of the leads from the sensor itself were insulated and shouldn't be spliced. Must not be the case here then.

    Thanks Demon!!
    I'll put holes in him!!

  4. #4

    Default

    The wires have a covering over them so just make sure it covers up as much of the wiring as possible when finished splicing. It shouldn't be a problem though.
    1999 3.0L Cougar Supercharged (10psi)
    2005.5 Audi S4 (340hp AWD winter beater... )

    Visit: http://www.3LDuratec.com for interest in 3L SVT Contours, 3L swaps into your current car, Prepped 3L engines, our Supercharger kit, or anything 3L related.

  5. #5

    Default

    Just so we all know what I mean by "splicing"

    Slide the exposed wires into each other. Compress with fingers. Solder the entire exposed wire. Heat shrink. (Remember heatshrink has to go on first )
    2000 SVT #674
    13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
    2005 Magnum R/T
    2 Ton Tank with a Hemi

  6. #6

    Default

    Yep, that's the only way to "splice" wire.
    I'll put holes in him!!

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Default

    What? No twisty?

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TourDeForce View Post
    What? No twisty?
    Is that why my gl's speakers only sometimes work?
    98.5 SVT-187whp-whawhawheel bearing.
    96 ATX Zetec-alive but scarred!
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  9. #9

    Lightbulb

    Quote Originally Posted by SvtTour98.5-3 View Post
    Yep, that's the only way to "splice" wire.
    Good to hear. Unfortunately far too many people would just use crimp butt connectors or worse and then just tape over the mess. Heck not even tape over it.
    2000 SVT #674
    13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
    2005 Magnum R/T
    2 Ton Tank with a Hemi

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
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    8,043

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DemonSVT View Post
    Good to hear. Unfortunately far too many people would just use crimp butt connectors or worse and then just tape over the mess. Heck not even tape over it.
    I was taught to twist the wires together (linear splice), then solder the connection. Is it now acceptable to simply push the multi-strand wires together and solder??

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