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F'in rotors wont come the F'k OFF!

M

muhafuha

CEG'er
Joined
Mar 17, 2006
Messages
60
Location
Streamwood, IL
trying to replace pads and rotors and i cant get the :censored::censored::censored::censored:in things off. Im pissed so excuse my language, i had to pack it up yesterday and try again today , this time with a bigger hammer (20lb sledge hammer) and i cant seem to get them off. Im not a big fan of torching but is this my only option??

ive NEVER had problems changing brakes why r these so damn difficult!>?

im located in streamwood, 20 bucks and a frozen pizza for whoever can get them off! ;-)
 
well I'm sure you know that it has rusted to the hub.

when you do get them off i would replace them. then clean the hub with a wire brush. when you put a new rotor on put anti-seize grease on the hub.
 
Kind of what happens to a 10 year old car that have never had a rotor change. LOL! Good luck.
 
I wouldn't be against using the torch. Just use common sense. You don't want to scorch the bearing. A little WD or PB Blaster, a little heat, a large 3 jaw puller and pop the puller with a mallet. I had the same problem when I changed my brothers brakes on his Cougar. His Cougar is the reason my puller is slightly bent. BTW: His wasn't even a year old and it had already seized to the hub. Make sure to clean and lube the hub with anti-seize as stated above. Works wonders. If you're still stuck I'm in Lisle w/tools, a garage and a soft spot for pizza. :laugh:

Chris
 
update

update

yeah i have wd-40 and i used a almost half a can of it on the first attempt. Attempt #2 came the next day with a sledge hammer, guess what, the head of the hammer fell off the handle. 10 yr old or not, what a HORRIBLE design if it can rust like that. Ill be trying again tomorrow w a torch.
 
Yeah - PB blast it, maybe clamp a rag soaked with it to the spot and let it sit for like 10 min. Hit it with a hammer, if that doesn't work - use heat, just try and only heat the rotor - you only want that to expand. If that still doesn't work, repeat. I wouldn't use a puller - you will only wreck it.
 
muhafuha said:
yeah i have wd-40 and i used a almost half a can of it on the first attempt. Attempt #2 came the next day with a sledge hammer, guess what, the head of the hammer fell off the handle. 10 yr old or not, what a HORRIBLE design if it can rust like that. Ill be trying again tomorrow w a torch.
Click to expand...
Has nothing to do with design.....any rotor that has been on any car for awhile will do the same thing.
 
Loco4G63 said:
Has nothing to do with design.....any rotor that has been on any car for awhile will do the same thing.
Click to expand...


I've never seen rotors stuck on hubs before til I worked on my csvt's. Anti-seize is the only way to go. A very light film on the hub is all it takes to make life easier the next time.
 
Heat and then alot of PB. The heated rotor will suck in the PB between it and the hub better than you could ever just get spray in there.
 
I live in one of the most notorious states for rust - I've never had a rotor stick - but I have had drum brakes and almost everything else on the car stick :laugh:
 
Call me in 2 months when you need to replace the bearings you destroyed with that BFH. :rolleyes:

The BEST way to remove frozen junk rotors is this:

Take a die grinder with a cut off wheel and cut completely through and down on side of the rotor until you get to the hub area. Then CAREFULLY continue to cut through the mounting "hat" are of the rotor till you get as close as you can to the wheel mounting pilot of the hub. Then take a cold chisel, insert it into the slot you cut, at the edge of the rotor and hit it a few times with a hammer (you don't have to beat the bejesus out of it) - it will crack the rotor all the way through the other side and then you can just take it off.
Saves the wheel bearings and a lot of BS in the process.
 
Stazi said:
Call me in 2 months when you need to replace the bearings you destroyed with that BFH. :rolleyes:

The BEST way to remove frozen junk rotors is this:

Take a die grinder with a cut off wheel and cut completely through and down on side of the rotor until you get to the hub area. Then CAREFULLY continue to cut through the mounting "hat" are of the rotor till you get as close as you can to the wheel mounting pilot of the hub. Then take a cold chisel, insert it into the slot you cut, at the edge of the rotor and hit it a few times with a hammer (you don't have to beat the bejesus out of it) - it will crack the rotor all the way through the other side and then you can just take it off.
Saves the wheel bearings and a lot of BS in the process.
Click to expand...

Ouch - I guess that would save time in the long run.. Never had to do that - but I guess it would be another excuse to plasma cut something :laugh:

Here is a though - what if you were to pop out the wheel studs (being that they are a snap to put back in) and beat on it with a rubber mallet - without the studs on there, it may give it a chance to move in angles it otherwise couldn't because of the studs... Just a thought...
 
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