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new brake pads

MadDog

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Jul 27, 2012
Messages
618
Location
Augusta, GA
I am looking to replace the brake pads on my 2000 CSVT. From working through the forums it appears that Bendix is well regarded. This is for a daily driver, and I don't need anything fancy. Does anyone have any particular good or bad experiences with the Bendix D661 (rear) or MKD801 (front) ?

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
While I am replacing the brake pads, I might as well inspect the rotors. Is there a minimum thickness for the rotor to be considered usable ? The Haynes manual implies there is some sort of minimum thickness, but doesn't quote a number.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
Minimum discard thickness: 22.20mm / .874in and minimum machine (lathe) thickness: 22.80mm / .898in
Measure rotor at 4 places around the rotor.
 
Thanks for the tip. I changed out the fronts today, no problems at all (knock on wood). The rotors are close to done - I get ~23-24 mm thick.
Looking though the factory manual, Ford requires the use of a special tool to recess the pistons on the rear brakes. The manual makes it looks like the piston screws in and out as opposed to straight in-out. Is the special tool really required ?

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
Well no, the Ford tool isn't required, but yes, the piston does screw back into the caliper and this is accomplished by using Lisle 28600 or equivalent (re: cheaper) at Autozone and the like.
 
Hahahahahaha ! So thats "the cube" I read about in other threads ! Thanks for all the tips. I never swapped out brake pads before, and as always, the support here really helps me how to learn how to do this sort of thing.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
Thanks for the compliment, but I still get nervous working on the car. I really ought to get a second one so I don't worry as much.

thnaks,

Mad Dog
 
No Title

I bought the "cube and started to replace the read pads this last weekend, but ran into a problem. According to the factory manual, I have to release the parking brake cable from the spindle. I get that I have to release the tension from the parking brake arm (the U shaped steel piece), the push the cable head down, out of the slot on the end. However, it appears I have to thread the cable completely through the hole ("B") in order to free up the spindle. it doesn't look like it will all fit through the hole.

fetch


My second question is about the caliper assembly. In order to swivel the caliper up, and expose the brake pads, I have to slip the locking pin out. The locking pin has a slip pin (?) that prevents the locking pin from moving. The head of the slip pin is facing inside, just under the caliper, and cannot be reached to pull it out with a pair of needle nose pliers. I can fish it out using some hemostats or a dental pick, but then I don't think I could put the pin back in with the same orientation. I checked the brakes on the other side and the pin is in the same orientation, so I
figure this must be for a reason.



fetch



Any thoughts ?

thanks,

Mad Dog
 

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No Title

I posted a new reply last night, but I see it has vanished. This is not the first time this happened.

Lets see if this works:
I was trying to replace the brake pads last weekend, but ran into a problem: The locking pin that prevents the brake caliper from opening up is itself prevented from moving by the use of a small cotter pin. On both of my rear brakes, the head of the pin is facing inside the brake caliper making it impossible to snake a pair of pliers in there. file I could fish the pin out using hemostats or a dental pick, I doubt I could get the pin back in, in the same orientation.

fetch


Is the head of the cotter pin supposed to be facing into the caliper, or does it really matter ?

thanks,

Mad Dog
 

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What the heck is going on ? Both posts had vanished entirely, even after refreshing the page hours later. Are posts with pics moderated ?

Mad Dog
 
You can put that clip in anywhere you can get it firmly in place to not come out.................
 
I posted a new reply last night, but I see it has vanished. This is not the first time this happened.

Lets see if this works:
I was trying to replace the brake pads last weekend, but ran into a problem: The locking pin that prevents the brake caliper from opening up is itself prevented from moving by the use of a small cotter pin. On both of my rear brakes, the head of the pin is facing inside the brake caliper making it impossible to snake a pair of pliers in there. file I could fish the pin out using hemostats or a dental pick, I doubt I could get the pin back in, in the same orientation.

fetch


Is the head of the cotter pin supposed to be facing into the caliper, or does it really matter ?

thanks,

Mad Dog


Apply Liquid Wrench to that "locking pin" where it fits into both side of the caliper bracket. While tapping on the caliper with a hammer (to relieve tension), you can grab the head of the locking pin and rotate it until the cotter pin is in a place where you can extract it.
 
MadDog - did you get the parking brake cable issue addressed? Where are you at on this rear brake pad R&R? Thanks amc49 for offering assistance. I have been out of state last week - wedding to attend in Texas - BIG STATE, btw.
 
Thanks to both of you for the tips.

The parking cable I can get off the "U", but I wanted to be sure you really have to thread it through the hole ("B" in the picture). I have visions of pulling the cable end through the hole, and it retracting 3 feet into the chassis. Paranoia and all….

For the cotter (slip ?) pin, I thought it was odd that in both cases they face inward. I can get it off and place it 180 degrees in the opposite orientation.

I figured I would be very careful before doing anything I wasn't sure about. I have the pads and the cube, so I am otherwise set for the next time I have a chance.

THEN, I can move onto fixing the leaking power steering return line, the missing IMRC linking rod, the warped trunk board…...all the bad things that come with 243,000 miles :crazy:

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
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