Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

new brake pads

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • new brake pads

    I am looking to replace the brake pads on my 2000 CSVT. From working through the forums it appears that Bendix is well regarded. This is for a daily driver, and I don't need anything fancy. Does anyone have any particular good or bad experiences with the Bendix D661 (rear) or MKD801 (front) ?

    thanks,

    Mad Dog

  • #2
    Not an issue one - performed great for me - D661 and MKD01.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks for the advice. I will pick up a set.

      thnaks,

      Mad Dog

      Comment


      • #4
        While I am replacing the brake pads, I might as well inspect the rotors. Is there a minimum thickness for the rotor to be considered usable ? The Haynes manual implies there is some sort of minimum thickness, but doesn't quote a number.

        thanks,

        Mad Dog

        Comment


        • #5
          Minimum discard thickness: 22.20mm / .874in and minimum machine (lathe) thickness: 22.80mm / .898in
          Measure rotor at 4 places around the rotor.

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks for the tip. I changed out the fronts today, no problems at all (knock on wood). The rotors are close to done - I get ~23-24 mm thick.
            Looking though the factory manual, Ford requires the use of a special tool to recess the pistons on the rear brakes. The manual makes it looks like the piston screws in and out as opposed to straight in-out. Is the special tool really required ?

            thanks,

            Mad Dog

            Comment


            • #7
              Well no, the Ford tool isn't required, but yes, the piston does screw back into the caliper and this is accomplished by using Lisle 28600 or equivalent (re: cheaper) at Autozone and the like.

              Comment


              • #8
                Hahahahahaha ! So thats "the cube" I read about in other threads ! Thanks for all the tips. I never swapped out brake pads before, and as always, the support here really helps me how to learn how to do this sort of thing.

                thanks,

                Mad Dog

                Comment


                • #9
                  You are most welcome Mad Dog!!! You are a quick 'study' - this helps tremendously ;-)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks for the compliment, but I still get nervous working on the car. I really ought to get a second one so I don't worry as much.

                    thnaks,

                    Mad Dog

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I bought the "cube and started to replace the read pads this last weekend, but ran into a problem. According to the factory manual, I have to release the parking brake cable from the spindle. I get that I have to release the tension from the parking brake arm (the U shaped steel piece), the push the cable head down, out of the slot on the end. However, it appears I have to thread the cable completely through the hole ("B") in order to free up the spindle. it doesn't look like it will all fit through the hole.



                      My second question is about the caliper assembly. In order to swivel the caliper up, and expose the brake pads, I have to slip the locking pin out. The locking pin has a slip pin (?) that prevents the locking pin from moving. The head of the slip pin is facing inside, just under the caliper, and cannot be reached to pull it out with a pair of needle nose pliers. I can fish it out using some hemostats or a dental pick, but then I don't think I could put the pin back in with the same orientation. I checked the brakes on the other side and the pin is in the same orientation, so I
                      figure this must be for a reason.






                      Any thoughts ?

                      thanks,

                      Mad Dog
                      You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                      This gallery has 2 photos.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I posted a new reply last night, but I see it has vanished. This is not the first time this happened.

                        Lets see if this works:
                        I was trying to replace the brake pads last weekend, but ran into a problem: The locking pin that prevents the brake caliper from opening up is itself prevented from moving by the use of a small cotter pin. On both of my rear brakes, the head of the pin is facing inside the brake caliper making it impossible to snake a pair of pliers in there. file I could fish the pin out using hemostats or a dental pick, I doubt I could get the pin back in, in the same orientation.



                        Is the head of the cotter pin supposed to be facing into the caliper, or does it really matter ?

                        thanks,

                        Mad Dog
                        You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                        This gallery has 1 photos.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          What the heck is going on ? Both posts had vanished entirely, even after refreshing the page hours later. Are posts with pics moderated ?

                          Mad Dog

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            You can put that clip in anywhere you can get it firmly in place to not come out.................

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by MadDog View Post
                              I posted a new reply last night, but I see it has vanished. This is not the first time this happened.

                              Lets see if this works:
                              I was trying to replace the brake pads last weekend, but ran into a problem: The locking pin that prevents the brake caliper from opening up is itself prevented from moving by the use of a small cotter pin. On both of my rear brakes, the head of the pin is facing inside the brake caliper making it impossible to snake a pair of pliers in there. file I could fish the pin out using hemostats or a dental pick, I doubt I could get the pin back in, in the same orientation.



                              Is the head of the cotter pin supposed to be facing into the caliper, or does it really matter ?

                              thanks,

                              Mad Dog

                              Apply Liquid Wrench to that "locking pin" where it fits into both side of the caliper bracket. While tapping on the caliper with a hammer (to relieve tension), you can grab the head of the locking pin and rotate it until the cotter pin is in a place where you can extract it.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X