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A few questions about body work.

mncontour

CEG'er
Joined
Jun 11, 2012
Messages
31
Location
North Minneapolis
My Black '99 Contour has surface rust covering the roof. Has anyone else has this problem?
I just want to fix the light rust problem. It makes the car look like junk.
Can someone provide a step-by-step for filling dents, standing, and priming a car panel?

What filler should I use: plastic, fiberglass, etc.?
If I want to leave the roof primer black, do I need to spray a coat of clear over it to seal it? If so, do I need to wet sand if smooth before the clear coat?
Are the pieces that fill in roof joints that run the the length of the roof removable?
Any other tips or recommendations?

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
My Black '99 Contour has surface rust covering the roof. Has anyone else has this problem?
I just want to fix the light rust problem. It makes the car look like junk.
Can someone provide a step-by-step for filling dents, standing, and priming a car panel?

What filler should I use: plastic, fiberglass, etc.?
If I want to leave the roof primer black, do I need to spray a coat of clear over it to seal it? If so, do I need to wet sand if smooth before the clear coat?
Are the pieces that fill in roof joints that run the the length of the roof removable?
Any other tips or recommendations?

Thanks in advance for any help.

I had the same problem, I ground down the rust till it was all clean metal, (no rust through) blew it out with air, made sure it was dry and filled it with Bondo, sanded it level, and then used glaze on it to fill small imperfections.. sanded that with 220, then 400 wetsand. Primed it, was like it was never there..

As far as the paint, I would use a flat black finish, if you want that type of 'flat' look, single stage flat black would work, but it wouldnt hurt to clear coat it for a longer lasting paint.
I am NO professional, but I have done alot of jobs that still to this day lasted just fine.

As far as removing the roof, it could just be cut out and welded back in..but that wouldnt be needed unless it was rusted through completely and in a large area.. even then, pannels can be cut out and replaced from a donor vehicle without cutting out the whole roof.

If it is surface rust, you will need a grinder (or sandblaster/spot blaster) Cleaning supplise (alcohol works for me) air, bondo 100,220,400 sand paper and then 600 and 800 range wetordry paper for prep for paint..

You can get cheaper single stage paints, but they are not the best in the direct sun.. I used single stage paint on plenty of cars and never had a problem..

Also, If you have never done it before.. get some scrap metal and dent it and then fill it as if it were your car.. sand prime sand and paint and see how it works out.. Thats How I practice new things out.. either with the welder or painting with new paints.. or mixing different chemicals with paints...

another thing... if and when you paint, and you get orange peel.. dont worry that can be taken out too..wetsand starting with 2000 grit, if that does not take it out, go lower to 1000 and work back to
3000.. then buff with 2 foam pads, 1 for cutting and 1 finer pad for polishing.. if done right it will be like glass.. also, the buffer would have to be a variable speed buffer that is rotary..but this all can be avoided by proper environment and spray techniques.
 
Thanks for the info.
I was actually talking about the pieces at the top corners of the windshield that go back to the back window. They look like they should be removable.
I was also considering plasti dipping just the roof of my car. For those who have done plasti dip on full body panels, would you recommend this?
 
Oh, sorry I didnt realize.. unfortunately I have not been that far with a roof on a contour yet.. Im sure if you are able to fab anything.. it could be done rather easily.. I havent been down that road yet.. Maybe when I install a Moonroof
 
Did I read that right....you wetsand plastic filler (bondo)?? Thats a negative ghostrider. I sand plastic filler with 80grit then 180grit dry...and take it to 220grit if you are doing a really nice car....then primer. All dry sanding. The only wetsanding on a car should be after its painted to knock the clear smooth as glass (if doing a show car) and to get rid of clear imperfections before buffing.

Maybe it was a typo, just dont want somebody having issues because of wrong advice.
 
eh it was a typo.. however, I wetsand single stage.. and/or the clear.. but no I don't sand filler.. I just wetsanded my car that I shot with single stage and buffed it.. it looks great Bondo is like a sponge.. it absorbs water.. IDK why I even wrote that
 
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