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Any painters on here? clear coat help

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  • Any painters on here? clear coat help

    So i am trying to fix all the clear coat issues on my trunk. I sanded down all the clear coat spots (not down to the paint, just the clear coat). I started with a heavy grain and gradually went up to get it as smooth as possible. Once i had it all ready, I clear coated the trunk with a spray can. The problem i am having is that i cannot get the spray cans to lay an even coverage across the whole trunk. The spray pattern is not wide enough and it is not strong enough to handle the light breezes outside. Anyone have any luck with spray can fixing the clear coat? it looks horrid, its not shiny, you cant see the peeling clear coat spots nearly as bad so that is nice but at the right angle you can see different levels of coverage. It is soo hard to lay down because it is clear and you cant tell how much paint your laying down or if you missed any spots until it is too late. Is there a way to smooth out the paint more afterwards? I did this fix on other small spots on the car and it turned out really well. But there were soo many spots and scratches on the trunk that i had to paint the whole thing. Please advise and thank you.
    1999 CSVT T-Red w/tan - 5 speed - 18" wheels, HID lows and fogs, fram airhog filter, ypipe opt, res delete, and some fart cans.
    2008 Tahoe Midnight Blue metalic - 5.3L flex fuel 4x4 loaded - Airaid intake, SLP resonator delete/tips, Diablo programmer

  • #2
    With rattle can paints, it will never lay down well or evenly without a lot of polishing afterwards.

    Spray can paints claim you need to paint in temps around 70 degrees,. I find it covers better at temperatures of 60 degrees. The colder temp with no wind allows it to lay better and flat.

    With peeling clear, it is better to strip all of the clear off, you always will see added clear if you reclear it. You have to spray the basecoat before adding the clear because the original basecoat is too thin and will show sand marks.

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    • #3
      Thanks man! I have been watching a lot of videos on how to spray clear from a can and i am pretty sure i did not coat it enough, especially with the wind. i have signs of dusting instead of proper application. I definitely should have put down a LOT more material. I am going to try this again, it doesnt look real bad, its actually MUCH better than before with the peeling clear, it just looks odd /uneven in certain lighting. I am not looking for a show quality job here, just looking for a decent job with the limited tools/experience that i have.

      Questions:
      1. how long after spraying the final coat of clear before I can polish? couple hours? couple days?
      2. i am guessing i will want to use a polishing compound, what type of material do i need in my 7" polisher? i think i have wool and terry cloth, which do i use or do you recommend something else?
      3. is there anything else i need to do before or after polishing? wet sand? rubbing compound?
      1999 CSVT T-Red w/tan - 5 speed - 18" wheels, HID lows and fogs, fram airhog filter, ypipe opt, res delete, and some fart cans.
      2008 Tahoe Midnight Blue metalic - 5.3L flex fuel 4x4 loaded - Airaid intake, SLP resonator delete/tips, Diablo programmer

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