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Main power windows wire?

AGrayson84

CEG'er
Joined
Aug 20, 2013
Messages
329
Location
Annapolis, MD
Hi everyone. I want to make my power windows work with the ignition key in the ACC position, not just the ON/RUN position. Does anyone know exactly which wire in the interior fuse compartment I can manually provide 12v ACC power to? I would like to send it to the proper wire BEFORE it gets to the 40amp factory power window fuse if at all possible. Otherwise, which wire can I manually fuse ACC power to? Thanks!!
 
Why do you need to be able to move the windows in the acc position, why not just turn the key one more notch?
I can provide this answer but I need to look up my wiring diagrams.
 
Well over the weekend I wired my ACC circuit to stay on after turning the key off and remove it from the cylinder. The circuit stays latched (via 2 relays) until I open the driver's door. So I'd like the windows to work until I open the driver's door as well. Just a convenience thing, and to try to bring it up to date with some of the features of more modern cars. If you can find the diagram that'd be excellent. Thank you! :)
 
From what I'm able to gather from my diagram is that the ignition controls a relay in the main fuse box labled "ignition relay". That only happens when the key is in the start/run possition. To activate the relay you need to apply power to c372/4(gn) on the back of the fuse panel. The wires that leave the relay are vt/bu, there are two of them. One goes to the master window switch(c363/3) the other goes to your sunroof (c367/3). Applying power here will work aswell. The fuse is before the relay btw, so your gonna have to add a fuse to the system you install to keep circuit protection.
 
From looking at some other diagrams I believe you can achieve what you need and keep the entire car on in the acc position if you power the ignition relay.
Doing it this way will basicly make it so it thinks its still in the run position. You just won't hazve things that run on there own relay like hvac, radio, seats, abs, alarm, and locks.
 
Thanks for your posts!! I think I may just try to run fused 12v power to the vt/bu wires, coming of the correct relay post of the two relays that I wired up for the ACC circuit to stay on until I open the door. I would worry that forcing the car into the RUN position would keep the OBDII sensors running, check engine light on, electric fan on (until the radiator cools down enough), etc. I would think going that route would put more drain on the battery. Not that I intend to sit in the car for 30 mins after turning the key off, but just as a better precaution. What do you think?
 
EDIT: Disregard. I totally forgot that all I have to do is remove a fuse and test what side the power is coming in on with my probe. Brain fart :)

Another question: Any idea which color (blue or red) is power coming into the fuse and which is power going out of the fuse?

2pskl93.jpg


Thanks!
 
Leaving the car is the run position but with the engine off won't put a large strain on the electrical system, also I have never had the coolant fan continue to run when the engine isn't. Lastly the red wires are the input from the battery to the fuse box, the other coolors would be outputs to components.
 
So keeping the ignition side wires hot until the door opens keeps the engine running until the door opens. Make sense that that happened. I also tried manually feeding ACC power to the 40-amp fuse for the power windows and that also keeps the engine running until the door opens. I'm going to have to add 1 relay to the power windows and power sunroof output wires, separating current that would otherwise go back to the fuse panel when the engine is shut off.

I think I'll have to do what I just drew up for this relay:

n62jie.jpg

When the key is in the IGN/RUN position, a wire tapped off that circuit will be ran to post 86 to trigger (power) the relay, and this will allow the incoming power source for the power windows/sunroof (post 87) to connect to the windows and sunroof controls as it normally would. When the key is no longer in the IGN/RUN position nor in the ACC position my other relay setup will allow current to continue to flow to the ACC circuit. I will then use a fused wire to go from the other relay setup that is still providing power to the ACC circuit, to go to the post 87A, which will then send power to the windows/sunroof until the driver's door opens. Using this relay the way I'm thinking about wiring it, ACC power from the other relay setup won't feed power back into the fuse panel after turning the ignition key to OFF, which won't allow then engine to continue running until I open my door. What do you think? Thanks again!
 
Oops, sorry bout that didn't even think of it keeping the engine running. Also, from what I gathered the ign circuit is the coil that will flip the relay to the window power in from the cars normal setup and when the ign is off the relay will flip to your setup that will keep it on until the door opens. If this is the case then it should work fine. Just please make sure everything is fused correctly, I'd hate to get on here and see you posted that your car burned to the ground because of some poor wiring causing a fire.
 
No problem! I wouldn't say that was an obvious result of doing it that way. And yeah I'll definitely be sure to toss a 40-amp fuse coming off my "latched" ACC power from my other 2 relays, going into the new relay. That should be the only wire in the circuit that I need to fuse since it's going to be sending power to the windows/sunroof. I'll let you know how it works!
 
Sorry just saw this! I'm sure what I drew up on post #9 of this thread will work, just haven't had a chance to get around to wiring it up yet. Been busy with working on other stuff with the car, but might have a chance to do it this weekend. I'll definitely post up on here once I have it wired up! :)
 
So a few weeks ago I finally got around to wiring this thing up the way I described in the picture I posted. The power windows worked just how I wanted, but I wasn't getting power to the sunroof when I turned the key to the OFF position before opening the driver's door. Even though cutting the purple wire for the power windows circuit did cut power to the sunroof motor.

My solution was pretty simple. I fished a separate wire from the pin on my relay (the one that "latches" ACC power until the driver's door opened) up to the sunroof motor. I clipped the original power wire that went to the sunroof motor and soldered my new wire to the power wire coming out of the sunroof motor harness. Works like a charm now.

The only thing I need to work on now is keep the power window and power lock switches lit until I open the driver's door. The lights on these switches go out as soon as I turn the ignition off, except for the front passenger window up/down button, even though all switches stay active until the driver's door opens. Should be as simple as popping the door panels (need to do that to install new speakers soon anyway) and tap the wiring for the lights of each switch into the power to the up/down function of each power window switch, since power is still going to those switches for the up/down function until the door opens. I'll give another update on that when I get around to that, but now all of my windows and my sunroof are fully operational after turning off the ignition and removing the key, until I open the driver's door. :)
 
Glad everything worked out for you. That is strange that the power didn't stay on to the sunroof motor, but maybe they are on different circuits.
 
Thanks! And yeah it IS strange, but what was weird is that when I snipped the big purple wire for what I assumed was power windows and sunroof so I could add the relay, both the power windows and sunroof stopped working. So apparently the sunroof motor has some sort of additional circuit that ties into the power windows. I think someone had mentioned before about the sunroof being on a separate circuit. Oh well, it works the way I want it to now :)
 
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