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  • front speaker - rear speaker

    My passenger side rear speaker (2000 CSVT) was partially blown (high distortion on base). During my last trip to the local Pull-n-Part, I scavenged a drivers side front speaker from a GL. The part is not identical. The unit from my CSTV is 20 Watt, 4 Ohm, while the unit I scavenged is 25 Watt, 4 ohm. Are these 2 units otherwise functionally identical ? Other than having to tap out 2 mounting holes, the unit fits and functions just fine. Does the increased wattage rating present any difficulties to the stock amplifier ?

    thanks,

    Mad Dog

  • #2
    All the factory speakers suck so bad I wouldn't bother swaping it with another Ford speaker. Especially when a set of new pioneer 6x8's are $35 at wal-mart.
    2001 SVT Lightning #2839 - Stock

    2000 SVT Contour #1541 - | BAT | FSVT EAP | Hankook K110 | Y-pipe | RSTB | Energy Suspension |

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    • #3
      I must have a set of tin ears, but my main concern is that the scavenged part is functionally identical. I plan on addressing the audio quality at a later time. I can go and pull a front speaker from the junkyard if I need to.

      thanks,

      Mad Dog

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      • #4
        yes they will function but the different speaker will pull more power through the amp and wires because of the higher wattage.
        98.5 t-red Zetec mtx
        207,000 and counting
        i love bring my car into class, it give a new "special circumstance" every day.

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        • #5
          Thank you for the information. I would like to avoid taxing the factory equipment if I can. I scavenged another rear speaker last time at the junkyard and I will try that out.

          Mad Dog

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          • #6
            I wouldn't worry to much about it. Its only 5 extra watts with the same amperage. Worst case is you pop a fuse.
            2001 SVT Lightning #2839 - Stock

            2000 SVT Contour #1541 - | BAT | FSVT EAP | Hankook K110 | Y-pipe | RSTB | Energy Suspension |

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            • #7
              the speaker watts is capacity to handle safely. the impedence Ohms is what the radio sees (both 4ohm). If you put in new speakers they would probably be at least double capacity watts labled. It only matters if you have very large differences in capacity then the higher one wouldn't play as loud as the lower rated one ( it would have lower spl per watt).
              Now driving around in ronssvt's old car Sold on 8/5/2014

              Now own a diesel Jeep Liberty for family trips and so daughter can borrow an automatic car.

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              • #8
                also, just putting this out there, it is better to OVERPOWER your speakers then UNDERPOWER your speakers, when you underpower, you may not hear it, but your causing damage to your speaker(clipping/distortion)
                98 Contour SVT, Silverfrost

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                • #9
                  I dont know much about the nuts-n-bolts of car audio - I just want to dump the crackly speaker (play VH "Hot For Teacher" and during the opening drum solo the old speaker crackles) and replace with a comparable one.

                  Turns out the rear speaker I scavenged from a SVT still crackles, although less. The front speaker from a GL sounds fine (25 watt one). I guess if it doesnt draw more than the rest (did I interpret that correctly ?) thats fine with me.

                  Once I get the car worked over, I can consider a better sound system.

                  thanks,

                  Mad Dog

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by myclodel View Post
                    also, just putting this out there, it is better to OVERPOWER your speakers then UNDERPOWER your speakers, when you underpower, you may not hear it, but your causing damage to your speaker(clipping/distortion)
                    wwwhhhhaaaaaaaa?

                    this is actually a miss conception. Underpowering a speaker damaging a driver comes form someone using an aftermarket amp and turning the gain up. This causes a Square sine wave (known as clipping). So dont getting Gain happy when trying to compensate for power and you should be just fine.
                    2000 Contour V6, ATX (winter beater)
                    2005 Subaru Outback XT (baby car)
                    1999 SVT Contour 3L #1264 - Sold 2-9-13 she will be missed
                    Former owner of 1998 Mystique
                    Former owner of 1996 Mystique

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                    • #11
                      You could fit what I know about good car audio into a floppy disk. An 8" floppy disc. Thats not much. Me, I have no plans to get hinky with the speakers - I just want to replace the crackly one.

                      thanks,

                      Mad Dog

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                      • #12
                        I found taking the door panels off to be a PITA. I only wanted to do it once.
                        2001 SVT Lightning #2839 - Stock

                        2000 SVT Contour #1541 - | BAT | FSVT EAP | Hankook K110 | Y-pipe | RSTB | Energy Suspension |

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                        • #13
                          The rear door panels are dead easy. 7 (one center and 6 around the edges) screws and wiggle the entire thing up and it pops out. 5 minutes, tops. I havnt tried the front panels yet.

                          Mad Dog

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                          • #14
                            I only messed with the fronts.
                            2001 SVT Lightning #2839 - Stock

                            2000 SVT Contour #1541 - | BAT | FSVT EAP | Hankook K110 | Y-pipe | RSTB | Energy Suspension |

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Smokinjoe View Post
                              All the factory speakers suck so bad I wouldn't bother swaping it with another Ford speakers for sale. Especially when a set of new pioneer 6x8's are $35 at wal-mart.
                              I do have bad experience with these factory speakers and thinking to replace them. Which speakers do you think have good sound quality with affordable price.

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