what your opinion

[montrese04]

ok this is my setup at the moment. i know y'all like information so you don't haft to go thru the internet. so i think this is all of it. Apologies if it's overboard on the amp info :crazy:

also wanted to know is my amp designed to hook up my door speakers and my sub

and if my setup is nice then please let me know cuz i'm completely ignorant of car audio. I just know how to hook it up. I dont understand all the numbers

• head unit alpine cda-7863 internal amp 60x4
• stock door speakers:nonono:
• pioneer premier TSW126dvc 1000w max/400w nom, 4ohms, 83oz dual mass magnet in a ported box (3x1x1) i guess
• rockford fostgate 1 farad capacitor
• Duralast in engine bay and duralast gold in trunk
• amp is phoenix gold zx600ti Continuous Output Power at 1% THD (Wrms):
  Into 4 ohms Stereo @ 12.5 Vdc (IASCA/USAC) 75 x 2
  Into 4 ohms Stereo @ 14.4 Vdc 150 x 2
  Into 2 ohms Stereo @ 14.4 Vdc 300 x 2
  Into 4 ohms Bridged @ 14.4 Vdc 600 x 1
  Minimum Speaker Load, Bridged 2 ohms
  Minimum Speaker Load, Stereo 1 ohm
  Recommended Fuse Size, Stereo 4 ohms / Stereo 2 ohms / Bridged 60 / 80 / 80 amp
  Continuous Current Draw @ Full Power * 60 amps
  Peak Current Draw @ Full Power ** 85 amps Total Harmonic Distortion < 0.02 %
  Signal to Noise Ratio (A-weighted) > 100 dB
  Frequency Response +/- 1 dB, 20 Hz to 20 kHz
  Bass Boost 0 to +18 dB @ 45 Hz
  Crossover Frequency Range 40 Hz to 800 Hz
  Crossover Slope 24 dB per octave
  Input Sensitivity 200 millivolts to 6 volts
  Input Impedance > 30 kohms
  Input Voltage Range 0.2 volts to 6 volts
  Power Supply Operating Range 10.5 Vdc to 15.5 Vdc
  Typical current draw at idle

 

[BrApple]

why are you trying to amp the door speakers if they are staying stock or are still stock?


unless the amp is a 5 channel amp you are not going to be able to run door speakers and a sub from it.

 

[FFE]

if you are staying stock speakers don't worry about using an amp other than the one already on the hu. However if needed I would recomend an amp bypass kit to get around the factory amp behind the glove box.

My question is why are you using 2 batteries and a cap? Really a cap in a smaller system like yours isn't needed.

 

[montrese04]

if you are staying stock speakers don't worry about using an amp other than the one already on the hu. However if needed I would recomend an amp bypass kit to get around the factory amp behind the glove box.

My question is why are you using 2 batteries and a cap? Really a cap in a smaller system like yours isn't needed.

because my HU dims when i turn up the the volume. I run my bass on negative but for some reason it pulls so strong that i assumed the capcitor would help. (which it does) BUT i'm replacing my alternator with a 130a seeing as i'm doing a motor swap anyway because my other alternaor had major cracks and corrosion. so i'm assuming that might of been why the Hu was dimming

 

[BrApple]

um the stock alternator on either the zetec or the duratec is already 130 amps .... if the head unit dims then it isn't wired correctly or isn't wired with the right guage wire ....

 

[montrese04]

um the stock alternator on either the zetec or the duratec is already 130 amps .... if the head unit dims then it isn't wired correctly or isn't wired with the right guage wire ....

umm my engine bay batt to trunk batt is 2gauge for the positive terminal and about 4 gauge for the negative. and from the batt to cap is 4 gauge and from the cap to amp is 4 gauge.

what wires hook up into the HU that might mess it up. other then my car being broken into and my flip out being tore out. i think all the wires are there tho i might be missing something cuz i do remember having to find some other wires to splice to make the cd player work properly. tho when i set the time on my HU it never keeps up if i turn the car off :crazy:

 

[FFE]

Just wondering was a wiring kit for the head unit used, or was it hard wired in.

Also are you expericeing any head light dimming? If so look into the big 3 upgrade. Myself I was running a 1200 rms system in my 96 mystique and had no troubles.

Also you might want to match gauge on the battery in the trunk. Neg sould be >= pos in size. You should also be able to ground the negative terminal in the trunk.

 

[montrese04]

Just wondering was a wiring kit for the head unit used, or was it hard wired in.

Also are you experiencing any head light dimming? If so look into the big 3 upgrade. Myself I was running a 1200 rms system in my 96 mystique and had no troubles.

Also you might want to match gauge on the battery in the trunk. Neg sould be >= pos in size. You should also be able to ground the negative terminal in the trunk.

Nope no noticeable dimming of the headlights.

and it's just straight wired from the head unit to wires

i will get the wires for matching soon like you suggested and i also need to look into what this big three upgrade is or consist of. i've heard it mentioned but haven't researched as to what it is

 

[FFE]

i also need to look into what this big three upgrade is or consist of. i've heard it mentioned but haven't researched as to what it is

this should help

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~73496~PN~1

 

[BrApple]

umm my engine bay batt to trunk batt is 2gauge for the positive terminal and about 4 gauge for the negative. and from the batt to cap is 4 gauge and from the cap to amp is 4 gauge.

what does your wiring for the amp in the trunk have to do with the headunit also the ground should be the same size as your power if not larger and for as shot of a run as possible.

how did you wire the second battery? just straight to the other or did you use a kit to install it?

what wires hook up into the HU that might mess it up. other then my car being broken into and my flip out being tore out. i think all the wires are there tho i might be missing something cuz i do remember having to find some other wires to splice to make the cd player work properly. tho when i set the time on my HU it never keeps up if i turn the car off :crazy:

so the wiring is wrong with the head unit then ....

 

[FFE]

cuz i do remember having to find some other wires to splice to make the cd player work properly. tho when i set the time on my HU it never keeps up if i turn the car off :crazy:

sounds like you have your not getting anything to your 12v constant while the car is off. Check the voltage of the wire connected while the car is in both running and off.

Good luck

 

[montrese04]

what does your wiring for the amp in the trunk have to do with the headunit also the ground should be the same size as your power if not larger and for as shot of a run as possible.

how did you wire the second battery? just straight to the other or did you use a kit to install it?



so the wiring is wrong with the head unit then ....

just straight to the other

the positive terminal in the trunk. is hooked directly to the positive under the hood with a 60a fuse on the line and the negative for the batt in trunk. is connected in the trunk