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  • Audio FAQ!!!!! Read here first before asking questions

    Link to old Forum: http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/sh...b=5&o=&fpart=1


    1.DOOR SPEAKERS

    Q: What speakers will fit in my door?
    A: Any size can fit if you have the time and money. As for what fits into the stock door locations with only minor drilling or trimming? Most 5x7s, 6x8s, and a few 6x9s will fit in the doors. Component speakers will fit as well with the addition of a plate to hold the mid.

    Q:How do I remove my doors?
    A: there are screws surrounding the door panel, remove these first. There are two rage screws behind the trim panel on the door grab handle. Remove the trim panel by sliding a narrow screwdriver behind the panel through the access hole on the bottom of the grab handle and pressing the panel outwards, it will pop out. There is another large screw behind a smal trim piece at the bottom of the panel's face. Finally remove the screw located behing the door handle itself, it's located behing anothre little pop in trim piece that will pop out with a small screwdriver.


    I know its a little small, but those lines comming out of the door are the screws, hope it helps

    - 2 on bottom
    - 2 on outside edge
    - 1 on inside edge
    - 1 by speaker grill (under screw cover)
    - 1 on inside of door handle assembly (under screw cover)
    - 2 under the center portion of the door handle
    - 1 in the sail panel

    Yes, you should be able to use the factory wires, the only tricky thing might be drilling new holes to mount the speaker if it doesn't match up to factory locations.

    Q:How do Components fit in my doors?
    A:You have to make an adapter plate with a hole cut to house the mid. Use a piece of 1/2" MDF, or 3/4 if you require more clearance than that.

    Q:What are some good brands to look at for 5x7s?
    A:Any speaker in the same price range wil sound just fine. Favorites seem to be Pioneer and other similar big names. Any answer you get here will be biased so try looking at them yourself in an audio shop.

    Q:Should I run new speaker wire?
    A:Unless you are running aloot of power of feel the need, the stock wiring is adequate to run your speakers

    2. HEAD UNIT

    Q:How do I get my stock unit out?
    A:Ford stereo removal tools are recommended, you can get them at wal-mart for almost niothing. You can try to make a tool out of coat hangers but there is achance you'll mess the clips up and the deck will become lodged in place. Using the tools, just insert them, then push them apart as you pull the HU out of the dash.

    Q:What wires do what?
    A: If you have to ask this question, you should buy a wiring harness. You can find them at any audio store and almost any online place.

    Q:My HU has a factory amplifier, how do I hook it up?
    A:Don't hook it up, it's a pile of crap. Buy a bypass harness fromm crutchfield or a local audio shop if they carry them. It is possible to splice the wiring yourself, but again, if you have to ask this question in the first place, it's a safe bet you shouldn't be playing with the wires under your dash

    Q:How do I know if I have premium sound or a regular HU?
    A:Look behind your glove box (open the glove box then pull on the sides to make it drop completely) If you see a small silver amplifier, you have to get a bypass harness.

    3. AMPLIFIERS

    Q:What do I need to hook up an amplifier?
    A: You need power wire, ground wire, a fuse holder, fuse, end connections and a set of RCA cables. knukonceptz.com, run my a member here, sells high quality install kits for very good prices.

    Q:Where do I run my ground wire to?
    A:The ground wire should run to a point on the chassis as close to the amplifier as possible. The bolts holding down the seatbelt anchors are good lacations that do not require new holes to be drilled.

    Q:What size power wire do I need?
    A:The size wire needed varies depending on your amplifier's wattage.Generally a small amplifier used to run a single sub will use 8 guage, multiple amplifiers, or larger amplifiers running larger subs will use 4 guage, and finally rediculous amplifiers and beast subs will use 1/0 guage.

    Q:Where do I put the amplifier?
    A:You can mount it pretty much anywhere in your trunk. Many bolt them to the seatbacks, others build shelves that hang from the rear deck. Do not bolt your amplifier upside down under the rear deck however, as many amplifiers were not designed to be positioned this way and will cook.

    -----------------------------------------------

    I'll add more as more things are brought up

    ...

    BYPASS HARNESS ANSWERS

    Harnesses made by Metra. Scoshe also makes them but they are crap. So here are the metra part #'s

    70-5513 amplifier bypass harness only

    70-1770 Radio harness only. No amp harness included.

    70-5514 premium sound radio harness WITH bypass harness



    How to build Fiberglass box!

    First you must start with the right tools.

    Tools
    1. Table saw or precut MDF
    2. Router and bits (if you plan on doing a lot of work pay the extra for the good bits)
    -FLUSH TRIM - TWO FLUTE

    -ROUNDING OVER BIT

    -1/4" STRAIGHT CUT BIT

    3. Circle Jig (or) jig saw http://www.partsexpress.com/

    4. Measure-Matic (if you plan on doing a lot of fiber glass work)

    5. 2" Chip brushes

    6. Rubber gloves (resin burns when it gets on your skin)
    7. Mix & Measure Buckets

    8. Miter box saw
    9. Hot Glue gun


    Materials needed
    1. MDF 1/2",5/8", or 3/4 (depending on what subs you are using)
    2. 2x2 for you sub woofer supports
    3. Polar Fleece (Wal-mart)
    4. fiberglass resin (Autozone)
    5. Fiber Glass matt (you can get cheap stuff at Wal-mart or the good stuff (1 1/2oz Mat Tape) at http://www.uscomposites.com/mat.html )
    6. Acetone
    7. 3M #77 Spray Adhesive


    Step1
    Cut your MDF to size. For this box I cut it 37"x24" (bottom) 37"x13" (back) I cut the back cut of the base at a 13 degrees angle and I cut the bottom of the side at the same angle

    *note there are no sharp corners. this will give you a better looking box and fiber glass has more strength on curves then it does flat.
    Step2
    Router the inside edge of the MDF with the rounding over bit.

    Step3
    Glue and nail the MDF together. I used my air nailer but you can use a hammer and nails.

    Step4
    Cut out your rings for your subs. This will take a few trys to get it right. when cutting the rings for your subs you will not want to cut out the centers so leave a little wood in the cuts.


    Step5
    Cut the 2x2 to the right length. I did mine at 10.5" to the top and they are cut at a 22,5 angle. I mouthed them 9 1/2" in from the sides and 11 1/2 from the front.

    Step6
    Glue and screw you 2x2 to your base and then your rings to the 2x2 like the picture.




    Step7
    Test fit in your trunk. If you did it like mine then there will be no problems with it fitting.



    Step8
    With the 3M #77 Spray Adhesive spray the outside edge of the base so you can start to wrap your box. Fleece is only stretchy one way so I would put it so the stretchy part goes from side to side no font to back
    Then keep pulling it tight until you get all the wrinkles out of it, you may need to spray more 3M as needed.




    Step9
    Mixing the resin will take some practice but it is 1-100 parts 100ml of resin take 1ml of MEKP

    Step10
    with the chip brush start to add the resin. If you mixed it too strong it will harden really fast. Once it stops giving off heat it is dry. Make sure you get a lot of resin any where the fleece is touching the MDF this will help hold it to together.
    (THIS BOX LOOKS DIFFERENT BECAUSE IT IS FOR A TAURUS)


    Step11
    Now it is time to cut out the sub holes. I have a body saw I use. Then with the flush trim bit to cut the extra fleece and wood around the rings. If you used a jig saw to cut out your rings you will have a harder time making the cuts smooth.




    Step12
    Now that you have the holes cut out you can put the resin on the inside of the box. After this sets for a few minute cut strips of fiberglass to put inside the box. While the resin is still sticky you can put the fiberglass onto the box. This will hold the fiber glass in place.


    Step13
    Mix your resin and put it on the fiber glass. be careful you are working with it upside down and you will get it all over your hands and it could start to fall. Try and keep the air bubbles out of it.

    Step14
    If you are using more powerful subs you might need to do 12 & 13 again.

    Step15
    Mix resin and saw dust together until it looks like mud. Put a thick coat of it inside the box wherever the fleece and MDF meet.

    Step16
    While you are waiting you can sand the outside of the box with a 120 grit paper.

    Step17
    Cut holes in the rear of the box for your terminal cups, or you could go ghetto and drill holes and chalk the wires into the box.

    Step18
    If you are going to carpet the box this is where you would do it. Spray #77 3M on the box and carpet, let it dry for a few seconds and then put it on the box. This will take some work for the top of the box but it can be done without a wrinkle in it. Put in your terminal cups, put in your subs and you are done.

    Step19
    If you want to paint it have fun. Mix a 50/50 bondo/resin mix and add the right amount of MEKP hardener for the mix, the hardener for the bondo will work too but I have never done it that way.

    Step20
    Sand it once it has hardened, and fill any pin holes with Glazing putty. This will take some work but don’t stop until they are all gone.

    Step21
    Prime and paint the box, put in the terminal cups and subs.
    2010 Ford F-150 Raptor #2084
    Great Lakes Raptor Excursions #001

  • #2
    Ok I figured I would finally try to put this question to rest..
    HOW TO BYPASS THE FACTORY AMPLIFIER!!!!
    What you will need:
    1) Wire cutters (scissors are just for emphasis here)
    2) Some way to connect wires. Crimp connectors, Solder/tape, twist connectors, whatever works for you. Just keep in mind that over time electical tape sucks, if you use electical tape, put some athletic tape over the top to keep it from coming undone.
    3) 10ft of speaker wire
    4) Wiring harness adapters are OPTIONAL. If you want to just cut and splice everything you can do so.. But it makes it a pain in the ass when you want to reverse the process. (ex. putting factory back in to sell your car)
    Wiring harnesses needed:
    Metra 70-1770 & Metra 70-5513 or Scosche FD07B (same thing)


    OR

    Metra 70-5514

    Yes you can see the difference between the 1770 and the 5514, the black speaker plug is square on the 5514, and flat on the 1770...It doesnt matter!! you won't be using the speaker plug anyways!!

    First of all, take your power plug:


    Wire it up to your new Headunits wire harness (Alpine pictured):



    and plug into your factory harness that was connected to your factory radio:




    Now moving onto the factory amplifier....

    Steps:
    1) locate factory amplfier, to do so pull on the two tabs inside your glove box:



    2) The glove box will then swing down revealing the factory amplifer:



    3) Pull the speaker output plug out of the factory amplifier (there is a tab in the middle of the plug that needs to be pushed in):






    Continued below due to 10 photo limit
    Last edited by CarpePoon; 09-08-2007, 10:12 AM.
    2000 SVT Black/Tan #1163/2150 SOLD
    2007 Grand Prix GXP 5.3l V8 342hp/358tq
    2009 Saturn Vue Redline V6 AWD
    2014 GMC Acadia Denali AWD

    Comment


    • #3
      4) take your bypass harness:


      And plug the one end that fits into the harness that you just pulled from the amplifier.. Now, cut the bypass harness in half and throw the other half of the bypass harness away:



      5) Take your aftermarket headunits wire harness:



      And add about 2.5 feet of speaker wire onto each of the 4 pairs of speaker wire..


      Run this wire through behind the radio and down to your cut bypass harness and attach to the bypass harness... You simply have to match the colors of wires, You may want to label your speakers wires before you run them behind the radio so you can tell what they are.



      CONGRADULATIONS!!!! YOU HAVE NOW BYPASSED YOUR FACTORY AMPLIFIER!!!

      Now I dont want to confuse anybody after making this step by step, but you can also use a Scosche FD12B haness to cut some corners

      This harness is basicly the end of the bypass harness that you need along with wire extensions so you dont have to add your own speaker wire. You would just simply plug this into the output plug from the factory amplifier and run it up to the speaker output wires on your aftermarket headunit.
      Last edited by CarpePoon; 09-08-2007, 01:00 PM.
      2000 SVT Black/Tan #1163/2150 SOLD
      2007 Grand Prix GXP 5.3l V8 342hp/358tq
      2009 Saturn Vue Redline V6 AWD
      2014 GMC Acadia Denali AWD

      Comment


      • #4
        Can we get a how to on removing the rear door panels with manual window as well??

        Edit, answered my own question

        Removal of Rear Door panels Pre98 With manual windows (Feel free to edit into OP)

        2 screws on hinge side of door (grey screws),
        2 on bottom (black screws),
        2 on latch side of door (grey screws)
        1 screw behind a screwcover in the lock/door release assembly
        1 screw inside the door pull handle

        There is a clip behind the window crank, with the loop side either opposite the crank or in line with it. I used a screwdriver to push the door panel away from the crank, and a flathead screwdriver to pull the clip off.

        After all 8 screws and window crank are removed pull the bottom out and lift the panel up.

        To easily replace the window crank clip, push the crank just far enough on so you can see the threads. Then push the clip in place (from the side opposite the crank handle seemed to be easier), and push the crank back onto the door. You will hear a solid click as the clip locks into the slot.
        Last edited by KennyT772; 01-18-2008, 12:37 PM.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by CarpePoon View Post
          4) take your bypass harness:

          And plug the one end that fits into the harness that you just pulled from the amplifier.. Now, cut the bypass harness in half and throw the other half of the bypass harness away:

          5) Take your aftermarket headunits wire harness:

          And add about 2.5 feet of speaker wire onto each of the 4 pairs of speaker wire..

          Run this wire through behind the radio and down to your cut bypass harness and attach to the bypass harness... You simply have to match the colors of wires, You may want to label your speakers wires before you run them behind the radio so you can tell what they are.

          CONGRADULATIONS!!!! YOU HAVE NOW BYPASSED YOUR FACTORY AMPLIFIER!!!

          Now I dont want to confuse anybody after making this step by step, but you can also use a Scosche FD12B haness to cut some corners

          This harness is basicly the end of the bypass harness that you need along with wire extensions so you dont have to add your own speaker wire. You would just simply plug this into the output plug from the factory amplifier and run it up to the speaker output wires on your aftermarket headunit.
          I bypass my amp using this thread and it worked perfectly. Thank CarpePoon, the pics helped alot. It took me about and hour to and hour and a half. Not as bad as I thought it was going to be.
          1999 CSVT #809 B/T

          Comment


          • #6
            I just used the original 8 wire cable as a jumper from the new HU to the output connector. Kept everything nice and clean, and heck it was already there.

            Comment


            • #7
              I tried to get my driver's door panel off today, and after an hour or so of struggling, decided to give up. I got all the screws in this post out, but could not get the window switch/door handle/door lock assembly out completely. I got the back part out, but the front part felt like it would break if I pulled any harder than I was, and it wasn't moving.

              I've pulled several door panels in my life, and most have even been Fords, but I can't seem to get this one.

              What am I missing?

              Thanks,
              Brian
              Silver Frost E0 CSVT (Sold )
              ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
              My favorite money pit

              Comment


              • #8
                There are 2 clips that hold it on, too. You can see them at the back of the indentation where the door handle is. Use a flathead screwdriver to realease them. May not make sense until you look at it.
                Scott
                '07 Mazdaspeed 3
                "The Dutchman"

                Liking induction even more when it's forced.

                Comment


                • #9
                  It as in the window switch itself? I was able to find the clip just behind the door handle, so I got the the trim piece almost out, but the window switch wouldn't let go with the amount of force I was willing to use.
                  Silver Frost E0 CSVT (Sold )
                  ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
                  My favorite money pit

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Ah, I see now. It's the switch itself that is jamming you up, correct?

                    If so, see if you can:
                    a) Tilt trim piece to give more wiggle room.
                    b) Disconnect switch from wiring connection (uses small phillips in slots to release)
                    Scott
                    '07 Mazdaspeed 3
                    "The Dutchman"

                    Liking induction even more when it's forced.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I'm assuming the harness for the switch is on the back of the panel, correct? So then I should be able to mostly remove the panel before I need to disconnect the switch...?
                      Silver Frost E0 CSVT (Sold )
                      ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
                      My favorite money pit

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Yeah, sorry for the delay gettin' back to ya.
                        Scott
                        '07 Mazdaspeed 3
                        "The Dutchman"

                        Liking induction even more when it's forced.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Great write up on how to by-pass the amp. Everything worked the first time and sounds so much better even with stock speakers! I have new ones on the way...
                          Pearl Black 98 CSVT- Konis GC l OZ Supperleggeras l B&M l Port-Matched 3l SVT Cams w/gutted SVT LIM l EH SVT UIM l 65mm TB l NPG CAI l COPs l Black Hightowers w/projectors l Pre98 l Freedom Design FSTB l RSTB l
                          2kBlack/Tan CSVT 77k Restore
                          3 CSVT Sold

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by CarpePoon View Post
                            Ok I figured I would finally try to put this question to rest..
                            HOW TO BYPASS THE FACTORY AMPLIFIER!!!!
                            What you will need:
                            Wow nice write up! OK So I'm a cheapskate- what if I just want to use the original Ford stereo and bypass the amplifier? Will the stereo have enough power to the speakers or do you HAVE to use the amp to get sound from the stock stereo? Basically the stereo is acting funky and I want to see if bypass the amp gets me going for now before I swap it out altogether.
                            Mykdee-

                            1999 Ford Contour SE Sport

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