How To: Spark Plugs

[ScottyDsntKnow]

Ok all but one of the how tos are down and that one is missing some info and has no pics either. I was also led to believe that this would be a very difficult plug change by more than one post. This is NOT a difficult plug change compared to some of the things I've worked on. I had this done in under an hour and now that I've done it once I'm sure I could do it in under a half hour.

Note: This is for my 2000 E1 CSVT so it might be different for your car. ALSO, this is NOT an official Ford bulletin and I am NOT responsible for any injuries/damage to you, anyone else, your car/property etc... This is just a guide as to how I did it.

Ok, enough talk. What you will need:

-1/4" drive ratchet
-1/4" drive 7mm deep well socket
-3/8" drive ratchet
-3/8" drive 10mm socket
-3/8" drive extension about 9" long
-3/8" drive universal joint
-3/8" drive spark plug socket
-3/8" drive torque wrench
-Dialectric grease
-Anti Seize
-Air compressor with air gun or can of compressed air if you don't have one
-Spark plug gapping tool
-6 double platinum spark plugs. I used Autolite APP104s.
-*Optional* New plug wires if you need them

Before you start it is always a good idea to take the plugs out of the boxes, check them for any defects and go ahead and gap them beforehand. ALWAYS gap the plugs even if they come pre-gapped. Gap is .052-.056 for our cars.

First remove the plastic cover from the front cylinder bank. It is attached with three 7mm bolts. Next remove the metal box that is attached by three 10mm bolts and lay it off to the side. The front bank should look like this.

Next, remove the black harness connector from the coil pack and then remove the plugs from the coil pack by squeezing the release tabs and pulling up. You now have access to all four 7mm bolts that hold it in place. These are not difficult to get at, you just have to feel around for the back left one but a 7mm deep well gets back there with plenty of room to spare. Remove the bolts and lift the coil pack out and set it aside. The back should look like this.

Now remove all the plug boots from the plugs by pulling up firmly. I found that mine popped right off by just grabbing the wire and pulling gently. Next, take your compressor gun or compressed air and blow out the plug wells like so.

This is important to get any crud out of there that got under the protective boot of the plug wire.


With the plug wells clean, put the extension(s) on the plug socket and remove your first plug. You need to use the universal joint to get at the back plugs but there is plenty of room, at least there was on my CSVT. Change the plugs one at a time to keep the time the cylinders are open to the elements to a minimum. Make sure to use anti-seize on the new plugs and install them at 7-14 ft lbs.

Once you are done all plugs, liberally apply dialectric grease to both ends of the plug wires. Make sure to install the plug boots right away and BEFORE you put the coil pack back on since you won't be able to get to the back plugs with it installed. Make sure you remember to re-attach the little metal clip to the back right bolt on the coil pack when you bolt it back on. After this, re-install the plug wires, the black harness connector, the metal box in the front and the front cover and you are done.

Fire your car up and enjoy.

 

[todras]

No need to remove the coil pack at all. All that's needed is a 6" and a 3" ext to get down to the back 3. Way more work then needed.

 

[PHilly]

Good write up, but you don't have to remove the coil pack to change the plugs or wires. Do however unplug it to make it easier to get at the 2 harder ones to get at. First time I change them, I thought it was a huge PITA, now I can get it done in 20 minutes or so.

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

I found that it was going to take me longer and tear my hands up to reach down under the coil pack. It took all of 2 minutes to remove it and made my life 1000 times easier. Seriously it is four 7mm bolts and they're all very easy to get at with a 1/4" drive deep well socket.

So no you don't HAVE to remove it but I'm willing to bet that the job goes faster if you do.

 

[bxd20]

My only comment is skip the universal joint. Too easy to end up angling things as you apply torque and breaking the plug.

I put the plug socket on the 6", dropped it into the plug well, then snapped on the 3" extension along with the ratchet.

Otherwise very nice writeup!

 

[DocStruthers]

I had a socket wrench, 10" extension, and the deep plug socket.

Taking of the coil pack is easy and it makes it easier to change the plugs, don't be lazy just take it off and clean it while your at it.
Taking parts off is a good idea it gives you a chance to inspect things you normally might not be able to see, AND clean stuff. Our cars are pretty old now so you never know what you might find.

:laugh:

 

[DDV]

I agree: take off the coil pack, makes getting out the inevitably stuck spark plug socket easier. I use a pair of extra-long needlenose pliers.

To take the coil pack off, I use a right angle attachment for my cordless impact driver. Makes very quick work of it.

 

[ContourGuy93]

I originally thought the plugs were going to be a difficult job but now it doesnt seem so bad.

 

[ConMan36]

Thanks for the HOW TO ! It took me no time !!

 

[Rishodi]

Instead of a spark plug socket, I used this spark plug tool which was dirt cheap from NAPA that made removing and installing the plugs really easy. It wasn't strictly necessary, since getting to the rear bank really wasn't as difficult as I'd been led to believe, but it helped nonetheless.

 

[Texican]

I used a gutted Bic Ball Point Pen, It pops right over plug and Once you start thread it is Easy to Pop it off