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RWD CSVT: PRT's CDW-27 RWD conversion build thread.

I'm just going to throw this out there I know you are trying to make this as simply as possible... but your going to end up creating new motor mounts and making significant changes to the subframe. Why not go one step further...

Go grab yourself a VVT 3.5L out of a donor car or if you can find one (expensive) a Ecoboost engine. Engine bay space will no longer be a problem for you. What has stopped most people from trying to install a late model engine has been the added length to the block and VVT, which prevented it from being a drop in replacement. Going RWD will eliminate the concern about the length. Then there is the concern about onboard elecontronics... well your already going to have to do something about the speedo... might as well just move on. Get yourself a matching harness and ECM(s) for the 3.5L, which will handle all of the needed engine controls and figure out the details. Just thinking off the top of my head here... but all of the cluster is using just signal wires... I would just carry over those sensors and populate the needed pins to make the cluster work. If it needs to come from the SVT ECM use that ECM only to run the gauge cluster then. Although I've got to imagine most of those signals would be available from the new ECM... Grant it I just really simplified it, but that said it should not be that complicated as long as the wiring diagrams are available. No different then when I swapped in a full 97 Trans Am interior into my 85 Camaro.
 
I'm building a RWD Contour and the number one topic is the freaking water pump?? It's the last thing I'm worried about but I can assure you I've already got plans in mind.

What shift knob are you going to use? :laugh:
 
I've seen some of the V8 Volvo guys use a jag or thunderbird IRS instead of hunting down a Cobra IRS. Do you know anything about that? Not suggesting you change your plan, I'm just curious.
 
I'm building a RWD Contour and the number one topic is the freaking water pump??
:laugh:Thats pretty much I was thinking:laugh:

Are you doing anything with the oil pickup tube?
Did you buy the transmission adapter or build it?
 
The first thing that poped into my head was Lincoln LS when they started bringing up the wp. This wont be the first time a Duratec was put in a car the 'right' way. :laugh:
 
I've seen some of the V8 Volvo guys use a jag or thunderbird IRS instead of hunting down a Cobra IRS. Do you know anything about that? Not suggesting you change your plan, I'm just curious.

i've been looking at doing an irs in my ranger, and the thing with the tbird and jag, or even the markVIII rear is aftermarket parts availibility. including suspention and differentail mods.
 
IMO the one out of a Lincoln VIII would work period because it was mated to a V8, so I'm sure it can handle the turbo'd Duratec. As far as aftermarket goes, what you need to change out there, really?

Not sure how long this is going to take but if it debuts at SZ12', well, after not going to one since SZ07' I'll make it out for the unveiling of that for sure. I will also donate my detailing services to get it ready for the show too!
 
I'm just going to throw this out there I know you are trying to make this as simply as possible... but your going to end up creating new motor mounts and making significant changes to the subframe. Why not go one step further....

I like where your head is at, but I think people are going to be surprised at just how easily, and with minimal modification(a few custom brackets, yes) this is going to be done. I want to stick with the 3.0 for several reasons one being reliable power at a cheap price. I don't even want to thin about what a 35 is going to run me with all of its controls included. Also, using the duratec, there is nothing to do as far as wiring is concerned except re-route and modify a stock harness. Not saying a different swap may not come in the future some time, but for now, i'm sticking with my beloved Duratec30.


I've seen some of the V8 Volvo guys use a jag or thunderbird IRS instead of hunting down a Cobra IRS. Do you know anything about that? Not suggesting you change your plan, I'm just curious.

I want to stick with the cobra for the sake of reliability. It is a well built unit with a few mods and a relatively bulletproof rear end in stock form.


Are you doing anything with the oil pickup tube?
Did you buy the transmission adapter or build it?

Pan and pickup will likely come from the Loncoln and I will be having the trans adapter made. The car will be running an MTX-75 bell housing. The car will require only a custom clutch disk with the correct spline and a pilot bearing in the crank, everything else will be standard contour equipment.


IMO the one out of a Lincoln VIII would work period because it was mated to a V8, so I'm sure it can handle the turbo'd Duratec. As far as aftermarket goes, what you need to change out there, really?

There is a big difference between working, and being reliable. Being bolted to a V8 means thing....we're not talking 300 hp here and I'm talking about a lot of tire holding a lot of torque that are going to induce a lot of stress on the entire rear end. As far as needing an aftermarket...there are hundreds of dollars in bushing upgrades and differential support that make a HUGE difference. I'm sticking with Cobra.
 
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I had a great experience with the Maximum Motorsports IRS upgrades. For this build in particular, I'm guessing the adjustable aluminum pinion bushings will be very handy should you need to correct the drivetrain geometry after the retrofit. Good luck and let me know if you have any IRS questions!

~Mike~
 
What are your plans with the front drive spindles and axles ?

I've been wanting to do this to a Cougar for several years and had planned on using a Mustang K-member, alot of work but just couldnt think of a "good" way to get around the fwd axles and whatnot.
 
for the front all you have to do for the spindles is make an adaptor to compress the bearing. thats probably the easiest part of the swap
 
for the front all you have to do for the spindles is make an adaptor to compress the bearing. thats probably the easiest part of the swap

Or just take the spline end of a half shaft, cap off the end that holds the CV joint (or leave it open) then bolt in as if it was a complete axle. This way, the tone ring for ABS is retained.

Or use a large bolt that fits perfectly in the spline part of the hub and torque to spec. But idea that^ idea is the best IMO.

Another thing you can do is use the steering knuckles on the opposite side so that the steering rack can be relocated to the front part of the sub frame to make room for the tranny. Then, the trans can also mount to the rear part of the subframe.
 
I love all the input guys, but I promise, I'm way ahead of you. As I stated I've been planning this for literally 5 years. I didn't wait this long to post a thread because I was out of ideas, I did it because I finally have most everything figured out. I LOVE the positive vibe and feel free to keep posting your ideas and suggestions, but I just don't have time to respond to all the posts, but i will keep updates coming as often as possible as work progresses.
 
Is this going to be caged, or what are the plans for interior changes? What are you doing for your fuel tank, fuel cell in the trunk, or you going with the Jag fuel tank, or is there enough room for the driveshaft to get through there with the contour tank?
 
Or just take the spline end of a half shaft, cap off the end that holds the CV joint (or leave it open) then bolt in as if it was a complete axle. This way, the tone ring for ABS is retained.

That was my original idea as well, but figured it may be frowned upon as halfazzed lol. I guess not, doing projects like this sometimes you gotta work with what you've got.
Still interested to see what Pole has in store for it though.
 
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