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Ok im tired of this battery light need some intense help here..

F

fordman302

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Mar 25, 2006
Messages
1,660
Location
Cape Coral FL.
Ok after my ALT took a dumb i swaped it with a Advanced auto ALT and noticed my battery light comes on 5500ish and stays on and feels like im looseing power in the top end..I did a Volts check on everything everything checked out great..Im tired of it coming on and staying on like it does..I posted about it before and figured i would start a new thread and hopefully something new comes along?..Thanks again CEG..
PS. Belts a new goodyear gator back belt Tensior is new..

Joe..
 
what alternator did you use? a reman from autozone or the like? if so its bad and you need to change it again .... get a Ford reman ...
 
Ok as im driving in 1st gear around 4250RPM's battery light flickers for a Second and stays on..Will sometimes turn off then come back on around 6K..Same in 2nd gear..Can anyone tell me why it comes on with my Volts never droping?..I called Tousleyford today and was temped to order a new OEM ALT..But wanna hold off till i figure this out..
 
rawburt had a bad run of ALT's too. fork out and get a brand new ford one. then you can rest assured that's not the problem, and it'll last a long arse time.
 
TRicker said:
rawburt had a bad run of ALT's too. fork out and get a brand new ford one. then you can rest assured that's not the problem, and it'll last a long arse time.
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Ford is cheap..140ish after core..I spent 150 after core from advanced..I talked to steve at Tousley and he said to me that the ford Alt's are all rebuilt..But built by ford..so theres where the quality comes into play..I guess im going to stick with this one for a bit until i get some extra loot and then go get one..And throw this one back at advanced..
 
fordman302 said:
Ford is cheap..140ish after core..I spent 150 after core from advanced..I talked to steve at Tousley and he said to me that the ford Alt's are all rebuilt..But built by ford..so theres where the quality comes into play..I guess im going to stick with this one for a bit until i get some extra loot and then go get one..And throw this one back at advanced..
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Has nothing to do with the 'quality' Ford does. The benefit is that the ENTIRE alternator is rebuilt. Not just the one aspect that caused the failure for the other remans.
 
fordman302 said:
Ford is cheap..140ish after core..I spent 150 after core from advanced..I talked to steve at Tousley and he said to me that the ford Alt's are all rebuilt..But built by ford..so theres where the quality comes into play..I guess im going to stick with this one for a bit until i get some extra loot and then go get one..And throw this one back at advanced..
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Where can you buy them for 140ish? I called Bill Jenkins today and he quoted 250ish -75 bucks for a core.
 
dude, ok. four years ago, when i bought my csvt, my alternator died. i was far away from home and the closest shop was pep boys. ever since they installed a new alternator the light started coming on, just like yours is right now, but it was flickering at lower rpms. i took it back to pep boys and they installed two other alternators...problem was never fixed. then that last installed alt died, and i got one from advance...it lasted 2 weeks. got a new one from advanced...lasted 2 months. retuned it and got a third one from them. the light was still coming. belt was new, tensioner was good. changed the megafuse...all cables were good...finaly i got a reman ford alt, but from carquest iirc, and...i got to tell you that the light still comes on after 6k rpm and stays on until i shift into an upper gear...and its been like that ever since. i just ignore it, however, you might be right that the car might be loosing power when that happens..but i am not sure. i can't really check that. however, the only thing i can think of (and that I haven't done so far) is the gold tour's fix...look for it, but i am not sure if it wtill solve our problem. I also went through 2-3 new batteries, because after these alts went bad, they damaged the batterie's cell, and they couldn't hold the proper charge...
 
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8000RPM said:
dude, ok. four years ago, when i bought my csvt, my alternator died. i was far away from home and the closest shop was pep boys. ever since they installed a new alternator the light started coming on, just like yours is right now, but it was flickering at lower rpms. i took it back to pep boys and they installed two other alternators...problem was never fixed. then that last installed alt died, and i got one from advance...it lasted 2 weeks. got a new one from advanced...lasted 2 months. retuned it and got a third one from them. the light was still coming. belt was new, tensioner was good. changed the megafuse...all cables were good...finaly i got a reman ford alt, but from carquest iirc, and...i got to tell you that the light still comes on after 6k rpm and stays on until i shift into an upper gear...and its been like that ever since. i just ignore it, however, you might be right that the car might be loosing power when that happens..but i am not sure. i can't really check that. however, the only thing i can think of (and that I haven't done so far) is the gold tour's fix...look for it, but i am not sure if it wtill solve our problem. I also went through 2-3 new batteries, because after these alts went bad, they damaged the batterie's cell, and they couldn't hold the proper charge...
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Randy the Previous owner had it replaced and IIRC it was a Napa ALT
I never had a Problem with the battery light until that one took a dump and my volts were on 12V. I got this ALT and it comes on around 6K stays on but doesnt affect my Volt gauge..And will usally come on around 4250 in 1st and 2nd ish..Depends..
 
fordman302 said:
Randy the Previous owner had it replaced and IIRC it was a Napa ALT
I never had a Problem with the battery light until that one took a dump and my volts were on 12V. I got this ALT and it comes on around 6K stays on but doesnt affect my Volt gauge..And will usally come on around 4250 in 1st and 2nd ish..Depends..
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Have you tried clipping a multimeter on your battery while your revving it to watch the voltage and see if it's dropping. Plus you should be able to trace voltage drops in your line by referenceing the battery with your mulitmeter, for example, ground your multimeter at the battery negative, then probe the Positive connection at the ALT, then at the fuse box, etc, and see i you have any major voltage drops...
 
CSVT_2004 said:
Have you tried clipping a multimeter on your battery while your revving it to watch the voltage and see if it's dropping. Plus you should be able to trace voltage drops in your line by referenceing the battery with your mulitmeter, for example, ground your multimeter at the battery negative, then probe the Positive connection at the ALT, then at the fuse box, etc, and see i you have any major voltage drops...
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I have a Volts gauge in the car and it hasnt droped at all but i havent tryed to rev the motor and see if it drops at the ALT or anything but at Idle and such its 14.5
 
fordman302 said:
I have a Volts gauge in the car and it hasnt droped at all but i havent tryed to rev the motor and see if it drops at the ALT or anything but at Idle and such its 14.5
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See that seems right, but you describe your problem is at higher RPM"s I'd meter it an see if it drops when your up in the RPMS, not going to tell much I guess, just that it's not charging as well at high rpms if that's the case....
 
CSVT_2004 said:
See that seems right, but you describe your problem is at higher RPM"s I'd meter it an see if it drops when your up in the RPMS, not going to tell much I guess, just that it's not charging as well at high rpms if that's the case....
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I'll have to see if i can meter it tonight..I have a OEM ALT coming so i will probally just swap that in there.
 
Ok just tested the mega fuse and never droped below 14volts when reving high..
Tested the battery and same thing..Im unable to get under the car but it should be the same reading at the first lead into the Megafuse coming right off ALT right and thats where i tested.
 
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