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IMRC not working, No CEL?

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  • IMRC not working, No CEL?

    My IMRC isn't working but I've driven about 10 miles and no CEL. My mechanic knows the car pretty well as he's worked on it a lot over the last 15 years. There are no pending codes and he has checked all of the linkage and checked to make sure nothing is mechanically stuck. The motor spins freely. Any ideas?
    99 Black SVT -3L Hybrid, Spec flywheel, MSDS, CAI, 17" Konig Tantrums, Optimized TB & Y, Baer BBK, Bassani cat-back w/ magnaflow res, Koni's w/ H&R

    '06 Volvo V50 T5 AWD MTX- Stock

  • #2
    Is the actuation cable OK?
    There's a switch in the IMRC module that feeds back to the ECU when the module is commanded to open the runners, this will activate if everything is OK INSIDE the module, so no CEL, but if the cable is broken outside the module, the runners won't open, and the ECU won't know.
    I collect Ford's Red-headed step children.
    1985 SVO Mustang (turbocharged track rat)
    1989 Taurus SHO (supercharged track rat)
    1999 SVT Contour (Sedanus-Grocerygetter-Rapidus)
    2008 Mercury Milan Premier (Comfy boat)

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    • #3
      Sorry, I forgot I had even posted this! Yes the cable is in tact and functions properly.
      99 Black SVT -3L Hybrid, Spec flywheel, MSDS, CAI, 17" Konig Tantrums, Optimized TB & Y, Baer BBK, Bassani cat-back w/ magnaflow res, Koni's w/ H&R

      '06 Volvo V50 T5 AWD MTX- Stock

      Comment


      • #4
        Maybe take off the module cover, start the engine and open the throttle enough to open the short runners, see if everything's working mechanically from the motor, gearing, the cable drum, and down to the bell-crank and linkages on the lower intake.
        Maybe a wiring problem? While the cover's off, check the module power and ground with a voltmeter, and check for the actuation signal from the ECU. The module gets VPWR (+12V) from ignition key-on, and make sure it has a good ground, ohm it out back to the battery (-) post with the ignition off.
        Check the bank of three electrical connectors on the rear valve cover, passenger side. Open them up, look for pins or sockets pushed back in the connector body, I've even seen the foam sealing gaskets in these connectors get displaced and prevent the connector from mating fully.
        I collect Ford's Red-headed step children.
        1985 SVO Mustang (turbocharged track rat)
        1989 Taurus SHO (supercharged track rat)
        1999 SVT Contour (Sedanus-Grocerygetter-Rapidus)
        2008 Mercury Milan Premier (Comfy boat)

        Comment


        • #5
          Great info, thank you. We'll try that!
          99 Black SVT -3L Hybrid, Spec flywheel, MSDS, CAI, 17" Konig Tantrums, Optimized TB & Y, Baer BBK, Bassani cat-back w/ magnaflow res, Koni's w/ H&R

          '06 Volvo V50 T5 AWD MTX- Stock

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by gmorrell View Post
            Maybe take off the module cover, start the engine and open the throttle enough to open the short runners, see if everything's working mechanically from the motor, gearing, the cable drum, and down to the bell-crank and linkages on the lower intake.
            Maybe a wiring problem? While the cover's off, check the module power and ground with a voltmeter, and check for the actuation signal from the ECU. The module gets VPWR (+12V) from ignition key-on, and make sure it has a good ground, ohm it out back to the battery (-) post with the ignition off.
            Check the bank of three electrical connectors on the rear valve cover, passenger side. Open them up, look for pins or sockets pushed back in the connector body, I've even seen the foam sealing gaskets in these connectors get displaced and prevent the connector from mating fully.
            Just got word that your post helped fix the issue. Thanks so much!
            99 Black SVT -3L Hybrid, Spec flywheel, MSDS, CAI, 17" Konig Tantrums, Optimized TB & Y, Baer BBK, Bassani cat-back w/ magnaflow res, Koni's w/ H&R

            '06 Volvo V50 T5 AWD MTX- Stock

            Comment

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