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Fuel fitting removal

j0stev01

CEG'er
Joined
Mar 17, 2009
Messages
319
Location
Louisville, Ky
I'm replacing my fuel pump from inside the car on my '00 and i can't get the round fuel fitting off that's right under the seat by the wiring harness. I'm afraid I'm gonna break it. Is there a trick to doing this? I have already cut a larger access whole and this is the only thing holding me back.

I'm squeezing both sides but it's not letting up
 
IIRC, you squeeze with pliers, and slide the fuel line(s) up. I know you need to be gentle pulling up the line, I broke one of the clips on my return line when i did it. It still stays in pretty good, no ill effects after 80K miles.:laugh:

Sorry, but been too long since I've done this, I'll let someone else chime in.
 
Anyone else? This one is different than the fittings by the fuel filter. It's the one on top of the gas tank under the seat
 
It's these little bastards here.


DSC02043.jpg



I've beat my brains out trying to remove them, squeezing the tabs with pliers, but the fittings won't slide up. I'm afraid I'm going to break something. I called my friend at Ford service, he says I need a special tool, I'm not buying that, I think I'm fighting 10 year-old frozen O-rings.

Suggestions?

My original 95K mile fuel pump went TU Monday morning, luckily it was in the garage, I have a replacement on order from BATinc, UPS just dropped it off moments ago, $75 fuel pump and $53 next day shipping. Ordered Tuesday morning, they couldn't guarantee even 2-day delivery before Monday of next week.

More pictures of this project here:
http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/nn78/gmorrell_1959/Contour Fuel Pump Replacement/

Gary M.
Contour%20Fuel%20Pump%20Replacement
 
when i did mine i used a piece of wood laid across the opening to give a stable base to lever from. The pipe fittings are a barb type and need to be wiggled straight up until they finally pop up.
First, release the cap at the point where the pipe goes through the seal.... it is trapped so it just pops up 5mm or so.
Second, grip the corner of the pipe where the two tabs stick out with pliers or pipe grips and wiggle directly vertical (in a circular motion).
I wiggled for 30 seconds then rested .. then 30 seconds more and rested and so on until they popped out. It will take time and you should be prepared for a 20 minuite struggle ... it may not take that long but being prepared to be wiggling for a while, will stop you from being impatient and unnecessarily rough. GL ....G.
 
So they're not O-ringed? They're barbed into some sort of rubber receptacle on the top of the fuel pump module?

Thanks, I'll keep trying.

Goddammit, why couldn't Ford just use the same style connector they used everywhere else in the fuel system? I have all the spring-lock coupling tools, I can deal with the slip together Bundy fittings and the little on-use plastic clips.

These slip-together abortions on top of the fuel pump probably saved 2 seconds per car on the assembly line. I was an engineer for Ford for 9 years, and I'm glad they're no longer my employer - their "assembly cost is everything" philosophy at the expense of down the road serviceability just frosts my ass. Every time I have to work on this car, my hatred of it expands geometrically.
 
So they're not O-ringed? They're barbed into some sort of rubber receptacle on the top of the fuel pump module?
no, there are no rubbers on the pipe fittings .... yes, they maybe inside the female part on the sender top plate.
...G.
 
Got the pump swapped out last night. It was relatively uneventful, once I managed to get one of the pump module quick-connect fitting released, I realized what I was dealing with: A simple push-to-connect/push-to-release fitting, very similar to this:

nitra_cutaway.jpg


These fittings have come into very common use in pneumatic and fluid handling systems since the early 1990's. You push down on the releasing sleeve, it opens up the toothed guide ring, which lets you pull the hose out of the fitting.

Ford, or the fuel pump module supplier, in their infinite wisdumb, put the little two-tab collar over the fitting release collet, apparently as a dis-assembly aid - only it doesn't work all that well. If anything goes wrong with this stupid little piece of plastic, like it gets some age cracks, or some debris builds up underneath it, the two little squeeze tabs can't apply even downward pressure to the collet release ring, and the stem will not release from the collet, and the harder you pull on the stem, the harder the collet grips it.

Solution: Cut off the offending little f**kers and apply pressure directly to the collet release ring with one's finger tips. The fitting then comes apart with minimal effort, as it should. Here's the tops of the fittings without the offending tabbed collars. The fitting stems are fully seated, they cannot be pulled out unless the release ring is pressed.

Contour%20Fuel%20Pump%20Replacement
DSC02047.jpg


Some folks here maintain that these two-tab collars keep the fittings locked together: They don't, there's no mechanical way they can serve this purpose. The fitting is locked internally by the collet and it's internal ramp, the harder you pull on the stem, the tighter the collet grips the stem, sort of like Chinese finger-cuffs. The annoying extra piece of plastic on top is, in my engineering opinion, a mis-guided release tool.

I need to make a new plate today to cover up the enlarged hole in the floorpan, caulk and rivet it down, and call this job done. The pump works fine, it's quiet, nothing leaks, the engine runs fine, fuel pressure is correct, all is well.

Having read the horror stories of Contour fuel tanks swimming with crud and hopelessly clogged filter socks, I can say that I found no such thing. The tank was very clean inside, there were a few small pieces of debris on the large, L-shaped filter sock, but otherwise it was all in very nice condition. I think my pump just reached end-of-life, it measures electrical open circuit, this parrot is dead.

Here's the full photo album of this swap, since early posts in the archives don't seem to be available. When I get a cover plate made and installed I'll add a few more pics.
http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/n...20Replacement/


Gary M.
 
Last edited:
...so you push down on the white or red ring and the pipe slips out ?
I'm so glad you worked that out ... the small sock that came with my walbro is crap and doesn't seem to work as well as the L shaped stockie at low fuel levels.... i wasn't looking forward to wiggling those pipes out again .. thanks for finding the right way ...G.
 
...so you push down on the white or red ring and the pipe slips out ?
I'm so glad you worked that out ... the small sock that came with my walbro is crap and doesn't seem to work as well as the L shaped stockie at low fuel levels.... i wasn't looking forward to wiggling those pipes out again .. thanks for finding the right way ...G.
Actually, you push down on the little Red rings that are tight around the stems off the right angle barb fittings. Just gently push down on the stem, hold the Red ring down with your fingertips, then pull on the stem and it will slide right out! The trick is to apply even pressure around the collet release ring, if you apply pressure on only one side, it won't release.

Once you get rid of those damnable two-tab collars, this job is stupid-easy.
 
Actually, you push down on the little Red rings that are tight around the stems off the right angle barb fittings.
OK great .. never seen this explained before .. someone should add this to the 'how to's .. G.
 
Thank you, Thank You, Thank You. This worked perfectly.
I cut out the plastic assembly with the tabs, exposing exactly the photo above.
Then pressed down the grommet, and presto, the lines popped right up, with minimal force.
Thanks for posting this.
 
You're welcome, glad you found it, working on these cars is frustrating enough when stuff goes mostly right. You have no idea how many times I've come this >< close to setting this car a-fire.
 
Wow! I just got a new OEM sending unit to replace the 177,000 mile original. Everything I've read says what a ***** these lines are. Now I understand how they work. Big THANK YOU!
 
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