Yes, the bolt is toward driver side of cat, behind it, a single 10 mm. bolt out in the middle of nowhere. If you look CLOSE at the crank pulley, there are TWO very slight notches in the edge of it, most people can't find them. You may need to sandpaper the outer edge to find them. If you look dead straight at the SECOND mark as pulley turns clockwise, it will line up with a small molded edge on the aluminum oil pan, but you must look dead on straight at it since the pan mark is about 2 inches or so further back. If you truly have crank at TDC then, that mark will back up the crank setting pin to guarantee you are at TDC by two checks. Whatever you do, don't turn crank against that pin to bend or break it, you are screwed then. You get crank really close and then insert pin and BARELY and LIGHTLY move crank up against the pin.
About the VCT, you take a wrench and put on the hex molded into the exhaust cam and turn wrench CLOCKWISE, or forward to front of car until you feel the cam hit solid inside the VCT cylinder, do not force it, you'll feel it hit. At that time the cam tool must go in backs of both cams. Every time you roll engine around, the exhaust cam will fall back from friction in the valvetrain, the springs hold the cam back. You must re-move the cam back forward every time you want to recheck the cam tool. The cam must be positively against that inside stop every time you check timing.
Final check for cam timing, ALL these must occur at the same time.
1-crank must be at TDC
2-exhaust cam must be against the VCT inside stop
3-tensioner must be tight and the pointer in the range
4-camtool must go in both cams with the exhaust up against the stop.
Cannot stress it enough, roll around more than once and recheck! Don't forget to remove the crank setting pin every time!
Do not use the camtool to hold cam in place while you tighten sprocket, you will break cam for sure, seen it done.
If you think you can pull it off, leave the exhaust cam sprocket tight, that guarantees you can only make full tooth errors in belt timing. When you loosen sprocket you lose the sprocket to cam phasing and that makes most engine light errors since the PCM is super •••••y about having that VCT exactly where it wants it. You make very small errors that screw you around when you loosen that sprocket, I don't give a flip for what the Ford service manual says. The car ran before with that sprocket tight and will run perfectly again if you simply roll engine around 3-4 revolutions IN NORMAL DIRECTION OF ROTATION and RECHECK the timing. Most errors come from not rolling around to recheck enough, you'll also see belt tension issues then, very common to get this belt too tight, it then wanders and chews up to tear up minutes or hours later. The proper tension IS LOWER THAN WHAT YOU THINK, on older engines you can often pull belt off by hand by simply pulling backward against the VCT to pull slack in the belt. It is SUPPOSED to be that way. Start car up with top belt cover off and watch belt, if it runs slightly off sprocket edge(s), it's too tight. As long as close only but not off edge you are OK.
Hope you're changing all pulleys under timing cover, look at plastic pulleys CLOSE with them CLEAN, small cracks at the center around bearing means they are about to come apart.
If you hear a rattle on startup don't fret, it's the VCT cylinder knocking until it fills back up with oil but should disappear in a few seconds.
Attention to every detail here will have you up and going the first time and forever, I've never had a problem yet.
