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More than one camshaft alignment tool specified for ZETEC engines?

O

Overheadcam427

Be Gentle I'm New Here
Joined
Aug 23, 2006
Messages
3
Location
Williamsburg, VA
FYI: I own a 98 Mystique with a build date of 4-97. I believe this is the original engine but I'm the 2nd owner so I'm not 100% sure.

I recently had to redo a timing belt installation that was done incorrectly at a shop. When I tried to align the cams I substituted a 3/16" thick, mending bar (~12" x 1-1/8") from ACE hardware to lock the cams in place of the Ford specified tool. I set the crank @ at TDC using the marks on the pulley/oil pan and also used a rod inserted into cylinder #1 to verify.

When I attempted to lock the cams, I couldn't get the mending bar to slide into the cam slots. It seemed like the centerline of the slots were below the deck height of the head. I didn't loosen the cams from the pulleys and ended up "eyeballing" the alignment as best as I could. I finishing the job with no problems and the engine runs fine.

I would like to open things up again in a few weeks and set up the cams correctly. I ended up buying a cam locking tool & crankshaft TDC pin from OTC (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RF9YA0/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00), but the cam tool looks very similar to the bar I already tried to use.

My question is this:
1. Did I make a mistake in my procedure?
2. If I didn't, are there different kinds of camshaft locking tools available for the ZETEC? It seems like my cams need a locking tool that extends below the head deck.

Any help would be appreciated!
 
as far as I am aware there is only one cam tool. If the slots where below the deck of the head then I would hazard a guess that the cams needed to be rotated 180 degrees so that the cam alignment tool would fit.
 
correct, only 1 style tool is used. I have used mine on pre98 Zetecs, 98+ VCT Zetecs, and Focus Zetecs without any issues. as BrApple said, if the slots were below the deck than the cams were off 180 degrees.
 
I wish I would have documented things better (photos) but I do realize that meant the cams would be 180° out. I ignored the cam slots and timed the engine as follows.

-I set TDC using the markings on the crankshaft pully/oil pan and also measured the movement of the piston in cylinder #1.

-I checked to make sure the int & exh cam lobes on #1 were pointed inwards (towards each other). In this configuration the intake cam lobe would be just begining to lift the int valve off its seat and the exh valve is fully seated.

-Just looking at the cam lobes (and knowing the cam direction of rotation) you could see the firing order was #1-#3-#4-#2. The engine fired up immediately and runs great.

If I would have rotated the cams another 180° (360° at the crank), then I would be in the middle of the firing order and setting up #4 to fire. Perhaps this is how Ford wanted it or my cam slots were ground wrong? I do recall seeing photos somewhere (not sure if it was on this site) of a guy who made his own cam locking tool but had to weld some additional tabs under the bar in order to insert it into the cam slots.
 
if you dont have a p0340 cam correlation or anything else then repair is complete. the second tool, the crank pin, requires removal of the catylitic converter or manifold to gain access to the block plug. i line the crank dampener dots up to the oil pan mark and use a flat piece of steel on the cams. technically you could just install the belt anywhere and set your tension. then rotate engine over until cranks lines up and then loosen cam sprocket bolt and move cams into position...vct engines have 1 cam that refuses to rotate though so more time must be invested.

Steve-O
Fairlane Ford Heavy Tech
 
No need to remove.the cat to install the crank pin. I have done it many times without issues. :shrug:
 
I was just thinking...it doesn't really matter if my cam slots are cut for cyl #1 or #4. When I was doing the timing belt job I just assumed that I should be setting the engine up at the begining of the firing order (#1), but that isn't important because the crank is in the same orientation when cyl #1 & #4 fire anyway. Your thoughts?

You guys have been great, thanks for your input. When I recheck the cams I will post some pictures.
 
It doesn't matter

It doesn't matter

The Coils fire 1 and 4 at the same time as well as 2 and 3, so it really doesn't matter. There is a reluctor on the end of one of the cams that helps the puter to know which way is up.
 
There is more than one locking tool. You need one that has two teeth, one on each end. This tool is very hard to find. You would do better to make your own.
 
That guy is lost. The tool is a flat bar .200" thick. He's talking about a tool that goes between the cam sprockets that won't work well on these. The ones I've seen are garbage, made of plastic. Teeth on both ends, it fits in between sprockets to lock them in place. I started laughing when they showed me it at the store, or junk. A 3/16" piece of keyway stock is what I use along with two .013" feeler gauge pieces since the key stock is only .187" think. The tool needs to fit pretty tight with no looseness. The VCT is not a problem, just before you check the camtool, take the exhaust cam and rotate it clockwise (forward) as viewed from sprocket end until it hits its' inside stop and tool will then fit. Rotate CAM not sprocket by the cast in hex on cam. Exhaust cam falls behind when rolling engine around from VCT. It pulls back up right when motor starts.

The slots in back can be too low if 180 out, while the crank will be same on 1 and 4, the cams will NOT since they turn half speed. Slots are cut off center to force you to have them right. You want them high for timing.



The crap tool..........

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-b2eYKS24p4



This one from Lisle would probably do that much better.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eyMeUsBZcoQ
 
you could use a screwdriver or nothing. just ensure there flat and both match. iv done 10-15 now and theres nothing to be scared of!
 
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