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98 mystique 2.0L zetec Valve cover bolt TORQUE spec's???

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  • 98 mystique 2.0L zetec Valve cover bolt TORQUE spec's???

    98 mystique 2.0L zetec Valve cover bolt TORQUE spec's???
    Thanks Anthony

  • #2
    7 N/M or 62 inch-pounds (NOT foot-pounds!).

    This is a very low torque due to tapped holes in the Aluminum head, and very few folks have torque wrenches that will do this low of a torque. I have a good click type torque wrench that runs from 5 inch-pounds to 250 inch pounds, and the few times I've used it for small, 6 and 7mm fine thread bolts into Aluminum, it has not given me a good feeling for the bolt torque, so I just use a short handled ratchet and my "calibrated" hand.

    Use a short handled 1/4" ratchet and tighten them to "lightly snug". This valve cover gasket has anti-crush spacers at the bolt holes, right?
    2019 Corvette Grand Sport, 1LT, just stupid-fast.
    1985 SVO Mustang (turbocharged track rat)
    1989 Taurus SHO (supercharged track rat)
    1999 SVT Contour (Sedanus-Grocerygetter-Rapidus)
    2008 Mercury Milan Premier (Comfy boat)

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    • #3
      Hey thanks for your reply. I bought the Haynes manual earlier and it stated 1995 To 1997 zetec is 62inch pounds. And 1998 zetec is 132 inch pounds...
      So I torqued it up 11 foot pounds.... I didn't see your reply, until now. I hope it doesn't leak now. Geeez. =(((((

      P.S. Fel Pro gasket kit comes w the new rubber gaskets for the bolt holes.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by gmorrell View Post
        7 N/M or 62 inch-pounds (NOT foot-pounds!).

        This is a very low torque due to tapped holes in the Aluminum head, and very few folks have torque wrenches that will do this low of a torque. I have a good click type torque wrench that runs from 5 inch-pounds to 250 inch pounds, and the few times I've used it for small, 6 and 7mm fine thread bolts into Aluminum, it has not given me a good feeling for the bolt torque, so I just use a short handled ratchet and my "calibrated" hand.

        Use a short handled 1/4" ratchet and tighten them to "lightly snug". This valve cover gasket has anti-crush spacers at the bolt holes, right?

        I have sprung a leak, that HAYNES Manual is complete junk!!!! The valve cover gasket is leaking from on bolt hole near timing belt, close to fan side. Have to swap in a new gasket again

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        • #5
          Originally posted by tonyankyfan1 View Post


          I have sprung a leak, that HAYNES Manual is complete junk!!!! The valve cover gasket is leaking from on bolt hole near timing belt, close to fan side. Have to swap in a new gasket again
          Make sure you use a dab of oil-resistant Silicone sealer at any place where the gasket has a sharp corner, such as at the base of each semi-circle around cam lobe bearing caps and such. These gaskets usually seal very well on flat surfaces, it's the little sharp corners where they need some help with a bit of Silicone, and tho I haven't seen the 2.0L Zetec V/C gasket, I'd be surprised if it didn't have hard plastic anti-crush spacers molded into the rubber at the bolt holes, or there is some other mechanical stop way that prevents over-tightening the bolts, which distorts the V/C and crushes the gasket.

          Make sure everything is surgically clean, I like to wipe the metal sealing surfaces with Lacquer thinner (borrow some nail polish remover from thy wife or girlfriend...) or similar to make sure they're clean.
          2019 Corvette Grand Sport, 1LT, just stupid-fast.
          1985 SVO Mustang (turbocharged track rat)
          1989 Taurus SHO (supercharged track rat)
          1999 SVT Contour (Sedanus-Grocerygetter-Rapidus)
          2008 Mercury Milan Premier (Comfy boat)

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          • #6
            X2. I haven't torqued one up EVER and a bunch of them. The seal has nothing to do with torque whatsoever on these as you simply run the bolts down evenly until they hit solid and stop. The sealing method is nothing like anything in the distant past. The bolts either have a solid stop built into them or the gasket uses setrings that do the same. The gasket absolutely CANNOT get any tighter once the metal to metal hit has happened. Past that you are simply breaking the bolt or the valve cover.

            If not bone dry the joint WILL leak, any oil there at all sets up a pre-leak that then continues once you run the part. As well, any lube still left on the surfaces allow the gasket to roll over to leak, it relies on friction to stay straight up at the sealing rib as it continues to crush. Even slight greasy fingers can flaw that seal.

            The bolts are 6 mm. X 1.0 and 11 ft.lbs. WAY too much for that, the aluminum commonly pulls threads at over 9, or the super weak bolts break.......................

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            • #7
              Thank you both, (GMORELL & AMC49) very much for taking out the time and replying to my questions and making comments, GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!
              Anthony

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