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Have to replace my PCM/what do i do about my tune.

Joined
Sep 1, 2002
Messages
77
Looks like i will have to replace my PCM. So when I put the new one it can i just plug It in a re tune it or is there something else i have to do?
 
Is your car stock? If so then you should be able to just plug it in as long as you have the correct pcm. Of course if you have a 99+ I think you have to swap out other stuff to make it work but I am not sure. I do know on the 98 E0's you can just swap the pcm and it will run just fine.
 
No, Its a full 3.0. I have a PCM ready to go I'm just not sure if i can plug my current tuner in and set it up.
 
98 3.0 sct x3. I've read as long as i restore one to factory i will unlock the tuner.... to then have the ability to tune another.
 
the pcm isn't completely dead. I just lost fire on 3 and 6. Another harness later and the same thing. Already returned to stock and its out. I have another svt that i'm putting a 3.0 in so i went to rob the computer out of it but sure enough i wasn't lucky enough to have the same in both and both are 98's.
 
PATS is external from the PCM on 98 E0 V6 Contours/Mystiques, so you can swap without doing anything with the keys. As far as uploading your tune, you just have to restore the old PCM to stock before you can load it on the replacement.
 
New computer in took the tune. You do have to return the old to stock and it unlocks the tuner to be used again.


There are two things that surprise me about this, and I want to make sure I'm understanding correctly.

1. You had no ignition on two cylinders, and swapping the computer actually fixed the problem? I've seen lots of people blame stuff like that on a computer, but it usually ends up being something else. I have always thought that the computer either works 100%, or doesn't work at all. Knowing that swapping a computer can fix an ignition problem like that teaches me something I didn't realise was possible.

2. You were able to swap just the computer without changing the PATS box, and had no problem getting it running again?


Glad you got it running.
 
1. You had no ignition on two cylinders, and swapping the computer actually fixed the problem? I've seen lots of people blame stuff like that on a computer, but it usually ends up being something else. I have always thought that the computer either works 100%, or doesn't work at all. Knowing that swapping a computer can fix an ignition problem like that teaches me something I didn't realise was possible.

The #3 & #6 cylinders are fired off the same coil on these engines. So it would appear that the output for the #3 & #6 coil was damaged on the ECM. Whether the pin was busted on the old ECM or it was a internal hardware failure inside the ECM... I'm not sure, but both scenarios are quite possible.

2. You were able to swap just the computer without changing the PATS box, and had no problem getting it running again?

As mentioned 98 and older cars have an external PATS ECM. Therefore changing out the cars ECM had no impact on the PATS system as the same key and PATS ECM were still used. This would have been a problem on the 99 and newer cars as the PATS ECM is internal to the main ECM on the car. In that instance the ignition tumbler and key would have been needed from the donor car.
 
As mentioned 98 and older cars have an external PATS ECM. Therefore changing out the cars ECM had no impact on the PATS system as the same key and PATS ECM were still used. This would have been a problem on the 99 and newer cars as the PATS ECM is internal to the main ECM on the car. In that instance the ignition tumbler and key would have been needed from the donor car.

Or you can do what i did and just swap the PATS chip from one key to the other, takes about 5 seconds and only requires a very small flat head screwdriver or a small curved pick.
 
Or you can do what i did and just swap the PATS chip from one key to the other, takes about 5 seconds and only requires a very small flat head screwdriver or a small curved pick.

Good call, I didn't know how easy it was to remove the chip.
 
I didn't either until I decided to try it at work with the precision screw driver set we have, simply locate the small plastic cover on top of the key, pry it out, you'll see a domed piece of rubber, that's the boot around the chip, pry gently on it and it slides right out, slide new one in and put the cover back on (I had to glue mine back in place) or leave it off and you're done.
 
swapping chips works best with original keys. Many have had issues with aftermarket keys and getting the chip out.
 
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