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GT fuel pump modified to fit revised returnless fuel module

F

Freedom Fighter

New CEG'er
Joined
Jul 2, 2009
Messages
29
Location
Richmond, VA
Good morning folks!

I have a 2001 Cougar with returnless fuel system. I am modifying the system so that it will be sufficient to feed a Vortech supercharger...

I have a Ford GT fuel pump and the revised returnless fuel module...

To my knowledge, my coug is still running on the original fuel module set-up.

Does anyone have any suggestions for installing the GT pump into the stock fuel module...either original version or revised version?

UPS just delivered these yesterday and I haven't had much time to look at them yet. I know folks have done this modification... Who has done it successfully?

I'm looking for a clean, reliable install. I don't want to reinvent the wheel...

I'll post pics of the GT pump and revised fuel module later tonight when I am home.

I just started a thread on NECO as well.
 
I got the Ford GT super car fuel pump installed into the revised fuel module! Ended up being pretty simple. The GT pump is a bit narrower, but still fits well in the rubber grommets. Also the outlet nozzle on the GT pump is a bit narrower, but flares at the end to the same size as the stock pump. It seems like it grabbed good when I inserted the nozzle into the fuel line fitting. Also the GT pump uses spade connectors for the wiring as opposed to a plug.

Pics:

Revised stock fuel module (recall version not the original version):

IMG_1617.jpg
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Ford GT super car fuel module:

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Both modules side by side:

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Disassembled revised stock fuel module:

IMG_1624.jpg
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Stock fuel pump:

IMG_1625.jpg
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GT pump and stock pump side by side:

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GT pump shaved slightly to fit into stock module:

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Ford GT pump inserted into stock grommets and sock:

IMG_1632.jpg
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Spade connectors for wires:

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Modification complete:

IMG_1635.jpg
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I thought about that... and still am thinking about it... Did some research on-line and stumbled onto a mustang forum and those guys were having the same discussion... not to insulate but to help keep the crimp from corriding? Apparently the mustang set-up uses spade connectors in the tank.... and the GT car for that matter since that's the pump I'm using...

Any thoughts?
 
On my car when I ran the 255 Walbro pump I had to chop my connector off and solder on another. The splice was inside the tank but I soldered and put heat shrink over the splice. I never had a issue. I'm sure fuel splashed up on the splice. Google it for a while and see what you can figure out.
 
I think I'd get fully insulated spade terminals instead and then heatshrink what you can. If you can get heat shrink over the entire end and make your own I suppose that would work. It's cheap insurance.

Something like this only heat shrink over the back/crimped area to seal it up. Although I'm sure you won't be able to seal out all gas from the spade end. It may not matter but at least the positive wire isn't exposed any more.
normal_IMG_1525.JPG
 
Hmm. That's a good thought, even if it's just piece of mind. I've been doing more research this morning and keep finding the Mustang guys doing this upgrade to their fuel modules...

Apparently there isn't a concern about sparks in the tank because liquid fuel and high vapor concentration in the tank does not combust, which makes sense since the stock set-up for the GT module and I guess some of the Mustangs are using the spade type of connection for the pumps as well as a lot of other brands.

From what I am finding, the benefits of heat shrinking is the piece of mind that corrosion will be kept to a minimum? I'm still researching though...
 
No matter how hard you try, the heat-shrink wouldn't be water-tight (or fuel-tight, I guess), so I'd think it would just get soaked and then hold the fuel in, instead of keeping it out. I would leave everything as open as possible so it would shed the fuel from gravity alone.
 
That certainly appears to be a nice set-up! Although, I've got $$$ already sunk into the GT pump and revised fuel module... I'll have to keep the Aeromotive pump as a back-up if this set-up doesn't work out.

What did the Aeromotive system cost?
 
The gt pump will be fine for 99% of people on here. I've had mine for 4 years now with no issues.

Sent from my Note 3
 
B3NN3TT said:
No matter how hard you try, the heat-shrink wouldn't be water-tight (or fuel-tight, I guess), so I'd think it would just get soaked and then hold the fuel in, instead of keeping it out. I would leave everything as open as possible so it would shed the fuel from gravity alone.
Click to expand...

Im with Andy. Dont worry about changing it. the stock pump on my car has 2 ring terminal connectors that get bolted to the pump. the ground is completely exposed and the positive only has a loose fitting cover over it (to help keep it from hitting the metal sending unit frame (ground) should something break). 21 years later when I replaced the pump everything came apart perfectly with no corrosion (the fuel actually helps keep corrosion away).
 
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