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NPG Turbo clearances?

CSVT#49

Addicted CEG'er
Joined
May 28, 2004
Messages
6,768
Location
Andover, MN
Alright guys so I finally installed the turbo piping in my car and I'm a little concerned with some clearances.

First one was the trans side mount. I had to cut the bracket off that was previously used to support the air cleaner. See first pic below. This isn't a huge deal as I won't need it again anyway. However it's going to be awful close for the inlet piping to get through there and hook up to the turbo.

Second one is the one I'm most worried about. The down pipe is touching the A/C accumulator. My car is going to have working A/C system so I don't want anything causing problems with it. I looked back at Brapple's install and Tuftour's install and it seemed as if Tuftour had about the same clearance as I do. Then looking at Brapple's install it seemed to have the turbo a lot further away from the driver side frame rail than mine, which in turn seemed to give better clearance to the accumulator.

I have the y-pipe pulled in every direction to try an maximize clearance, but can't seem to get anything more out of it. One thing I noticed on Brapple's piping was that the flange that connected to the header was larger, which looks like it pulled it away further. This would have effectively pulled the turbo towards the passenger side assuming the rear header connection. Pictures of their installs are also below for comparison.

kr9j.jpg
v9vr.jpg

miek.jpg

6esh.jpg



Brapple
pl25.jpg


TUFTOUR
3z4s.jpg
 
If you can't get anymore out of it, i would header wrap the downpipe (you should do it anyway) and do some reflective heat tape on the accumulator or maybe one of those starter wraps http://www.designengineering.com/ca...-inc/component-specific-products/versa-shield Otherwise have the y pipe cut reweled to your liking, pretty sure other people have had fitment issues bhiggs89 comes to mind.

I thought you had the revised NPG kit? No?
 
No need for wrap. My piping has Jet Hot Extreme 2000 coating or better on it. If the fitment shown is the norm then I will look at wrapping the accumulator. Just seemed a bit odd.
 
Its the norm for any of Joey's stuff...My dad and I both had his older kits (like you have) and his kit didn't fit on my car, the y-pipe would hit the oil pan.

You're just lucky you didn't purchase his new(er) kit...
 
Yeah, pretty normal Mike. I'm also running one of the earliest kits made by joey. Bunch of fitment issues exactly like urs. Had to cut off that intake piece as well, & my downpipe is about an inch n a half or so from the accumulator. I haven't run a/c on my car since 2007, so that hasn't been an issue for me. I only drive it on cooler days & nights. I must say though that with the underhood temps this kit will be creating, i dunno how u're gonna have a functional a/c system in the middle of a summer day, especially when u're in boost. Then again, you live in minnesota. I'm not sure about anyone else, & i dunno what other cooling mods you've done or planning on doing (might've missed it in ur thread), but my stock cooling system struggled to keep my car running cool at 100deg & higher. The temp needle rose and wouldn't drop until i turned the a/c off. Then again, i lived in vegas, so i'm not positive how much of a difference that makes. I live in Tx now, which is still hot. I decided i'm removing my compressor. I never use it. Plus it reduces weight anyway...

Edit- It's all about your Y-pipe. It needs to be shaped/curved inwards to bring the turbo away from the trans mount. If it comes down to it, take it to a fab shop, & they shouldn't have a problem altering it.
 
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I have the means to cut it and weld it myself if need be. However the problem is all my pipes have been coated already and I'm not sending it back to have it re-coated. That was hella expensive the first time.

As far as temps MN has some high humidity during the summer months. Last week we had heat advisories with 105+ heat indexes with ambient temps in the mid to high 90's. Although majority of the time we are in the high to mid 80's during late July/Aug. Otherwise we are in the high 70's low 80's, which shouldn't be a problem. My cores have been cleaned and flow nicely so my car runs pretty cool. However that was before the turbo. I also kick my fans on at a lower temp than the OEM tune.

Makes me wonder if I should design my own dang turbo kit and provide another option for people.
 
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I have the means to cut it and weld it myself if need be. However the problem is all my pipes have been coated already and I'm not sending it back to have it re-coated. That was hella expensive the first time.

As far as temps MN has some high humidity during the summer months. Last week we had heat advisories with 105+ heat indexes with ambient temps in the mid to high 90's. Although majority of the time we are in the high to mid 80's during late July/Aug. Otherwise we are in the high 70's low 80's, which shouldn't be a problem. My cores have been cleaned and flow nicely so my car runs pretty cool. However that was before the turbo. I also kick my fans on at a lower temp than the OEM tune.

Makes me wonder if I should design my own dang turbo kit and provide another option for people.

Oh that's right. Forgot u got ur own mini fab shop in ur garage now. If the temps stay in the range as u've elucidated, then hopefully u're good. As for designing a turbo kit, I guess if u're able, go for it. This kit was only the genesis. Joey has updated the design couple of times since then.
 
Can you bend the accumlator bracket at all to give .5" or so? I feel like there was some room to move that. I could be wrong, been a couple years since I've been face-to-face with it.

I also found it easier to loosely fit all of the fasteners and pipes. Then come back and snug everything down. Needed some 'wiggle' room for a number of connections. Nothing major.
 
When I installed the ADC kit I simply unbolted the accumulator off of the subframe and pushed it back. My a/c doesnt work but thats for other reasons but the clearance is fine.
 
What I have done so far....

-unbolted the front passenger side bolt
-unbolted the clamp holding the bracket to the accumulator
-twisted, pushed, and pulled on accumulator to move it as far away as the electrical and lines would allow
-bolted driverside bolt back to subframe and tightened the clamp on the accumulator

Doing the above bought me the 6mm of clearance I have now. It's not enough to make me feel comfortable. Not sure what to do now short of bending the A/C line and extending the wire harness. This isn't out of the question, but I'm concerned I would kink the A/C line and there is no coming back from that.

I'll put some more time into this Friday afternoon and Sat. Needed to flush the trans fluid on my wife's Mazda3. That and change the belts and oil. Sorta took up the last few days this week.
 
Had a little time tonight to look at it some more. I clocked the compressor housing and that fixed the inlet issues I was having. I pried up on the piping with a 2x4 and was able to get a little more clearance. I think I may have it squared away now. Just need to drill the holes for the cold side piping.
 
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