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headers

KBSVT

CEG'er
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
95
Location
Bowmanstown PA
I was looking at some headers and y pipes recently. I know everyone seems to be partial to the MSDS headers and Y pipe. The only thing I dont like it that they are not stainless, if I were to buy I would have them ceramicoated. Has anyone tried the OBX headers. I am usually not too partial for the Obx products, but, these look pretty decent. They look like the racebits design but look to have the collector olacement of the MSDS headers, little further down unlike the racebits

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I didn't even know OBX made headers for our cars. I will say you usually get what you pay for.

NPG sells the MSDS headers with optional ceramic coating. I don't recommend the MSDS Y-Pipe though, as it has the same restrictive bend as the stock Y-Pipe.
 
I seen that, the bent looks pretty bad, the trubendz y pipe looks pretty nice. didnt notice they have that option on the msds, thanks for the heads up
 
I also had no idea OBX made headers for the duratec, when did they start doing this? Most people I know who've bought OBX headers got them for Zetecs and Civics, but I've never heard a complaint or about any rusting issues. Their header design looks very similar to MSDS though.
 
A friend of mine had OBX header on his Spec V and the welds that hold onto the mounting bracket started to crack. It took about 3 years of hard driving, but never had any other issue from it.
 
Just a heads up on the y-pipe design, the engine is tuned with the 180 in mind. Installing a y-pipe like the one from trubendz without a tune has shown a small loss of power in the midrange. There was a dyno sheet posted about this long ago. The best y-pipe option remains the weapon-r or racebits, although the one from obx looks nice.
 
BAT Inc. has a y-pipe that does not have the sharp bend and also inlcudes a high flow cat.
 
Just got my OBX headers in the mail. I'm a little disappointed with some of the craftsmanship. The tubes are only welded on one side of the flange, leaving path for exhaust gases to eventually burn through the welds on the other side. Also some of the tube ends are not flush with the head face of the flange which could cause a rasp or some turbulence at the head exhaust port. The rest of the welds look decent. The welds at the collectors are a bit on the sloppy side but what do you expect from chinese junk.. In hindsight so far, I would rather have gone with MSDS and my factory Y because I have a 2 Bolt flange and the only option is 3 bolt.

Probably the same nameless company that makes Weapon R badged headers.

I will update when they are installed.
 
I guess if you want a decent stainless, racebits and have an O2 bung welded in is the way to go, otherwise ceramicoated MSDS with a Trubendz y pipe looks like a nice setup
 
Having a hard time believing its that poorly fabricated. The OBX stuff is nice. I have the mazda 6 headers on my car, great quality, holding up great. Let me tell you my rear bank gets a little hotter than most. The racebit headers are definitely made in Asia as well, look at price.
 
Pics as requested.

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Notice the bell flange fits a bit inside the curved pipe but the edge of it goes a bit in. Pressure change here? I think so..

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They're not TERRIBLE. Definitely not perfect but could be better.
 
Most stainless headers I have seen (which is quite a lot) are done just like that (about the not double welded flange). I think something about having the tube enter the flange reduces cracking on stainless, I could be wrong. However, I do have to say the porting job looks like some new 13 year old was learning how to use air tools, then got distracted by a shiny object on the last one.
 
Most stainless headers I have seen (which is quite a lot) are done just like that (about the not double welded flange). I think something about having the tube enter the flange reduces cracking on stainless, I could be wrong. However, I do have to say the porting job looks like some new 13 year old was learning how to use air tools, then got distracted by a shiny object on the last one.

I LOL'd at the last comment..

I'll throw these on soon, either my 2.5 to see the gain or wait to throw it on the 3-oh.
 
Sorry to revive the thread from the dead but wanted to give my opinion on OBX headers I just bought them and installed them on my 3L engine that I have on a stand and everything bolt it up nice the downpipe no clearing issue's
 
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